Two Chimneys and a Bastle
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12 miles
Start: Allendale town centre
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer Map 43 – Hadrian’s Wall: Haltwhistle and Hexham
This walk starts at the square in Allendale where you can stock up with all your provisions for the day. Walk down towards the River East Allen and just after the bend in the road take the good track down to the riverside which is followed downstream for over half a mile. Part way along will be seen the remains of the old railway bridge which carried the trains to the flat ground on the far side where the station was situated. Now it is a small estate with several shops, a craft bakery and also the Allendale Brewery which produce a range of fine ales.
At the first roadbridge cross over to the far bank and continue downriver passing Bishopfield Haugh and Bridge Eal walking through a mixture of woods and meadowland. Note the route at the house at Bridge Eal where you go into the garden and then turn left over a stile. Please respect the privacy of the owners by passing through quietly. Take care at the next area where Burntongues Burn joins the Allen. It is easy to head up this burn up a hill but ignore this and keep to the riverside path which here is a little obscure past Kittygreen to Oakpool and the tarmac road. Here turn left steeply uphill heading south. Ignore the first footpath on the left and take the second one to Gill House to arrive at High Frostall which is currently (August 2010) empty. Turn right in front of the house on the lane to reach the tarmac access road and at the end of this access road turn right slightly uphill for 20 metres only.
On your left is a chapel and cemetery which is still in use and an attractive place. Go through the graveyard on a clear path and over the stile to Hollybush. Here cross the stile and pass to the east of the farm and then cross two further fields towards Burnt Tongues Farm. Just before the farm the path has been diverted round the farm to the west and here you reach the road leading towards Allendale.
Head left downhill in that direction and in a short distance you come to the war memorial on your right. Everything round here is spread out amongst the many farms. A few metres after the memorial there is a footpath to Hollingreen. On reaching the house there is a gate if front of you which you go through and if you meet a dog he should be friendly. Once through the gate turn right noting the old railway shovels hanging from the wall. It is then sharp left to cross the Hollingreen Burn and climb over an awkward stile. You now cross two fields to Hawksteel where you exit the field to the left of the farm to reach a tarmac road.
Hawksteel Burn
The Hawksteel Burn here has obviously been used as a hush in lead mining days. The road is followed dowhhill past Dryside. Traffic is rarely met here and even less on the next road on the right to Frolar Meadows where you encounter the two flues which stretched from the smelter in the valley to the two chimneys seen uphill to the west. It is necessary to follow the tarmac to Fell House where the track alongside the flue then takes you to the chimney. This is a good place for a break with wide ranging views. You could need your compass now if visibility is poor as you head due east over heathland to reach Martin Bells bridge on the road over to the West Allen. In spring the birdlife here is very good with all the waders there to be seen.
One of the Allendale lead smelting flues.
Once on the road head down to Wooley Bridge. The map indicates a waterfall but on our visit the vegetation obscured it, although we could hear it even though there was a drought. After passing the waterfall turn sharp right along a very minor road passing past Wood Heads access road to an even quieter track leading downhill to Loaning Side. It is possible to go past Woodheads Farm and turn south to Nettle Hill and then down to Loaning Side on footpaths but l seriously doubt whether you will see a vehicle on the road. A very short distance north-west of Loaning Side is a derelict ruin in a field on the Nettle Hill footpath and this is the old bastle which was a fortified farmhouse. Bastles were common in Northumberland particularly nearer the border and this one is well to the south of most of them. Two are passed on the Pennine Way to the south of Bellingham. There were plans in 2008 to restore this bastle (known as Nine Dargues Bastle) but the currency crisis has stopped that for the time being.
Continuing downhill over the ford (there is also a footbridge) you reach Steel and the clear rural road is taken downhill to the bridge over the East Allen. It is a steep climb up to the main road at Studdondene. Here we head north on the B6295, which is invariably quiet, to the bend in the road where the Parkgates Burn is crossed. Immediately in front of you is a footpath which goes uphill to Low Scotch Hall where it is easy to go wrong. Do not go straight ahead on the same level but head right uphill through the garden and at the end of the house then turn left to follow a track along the contour through three fields to a stile in the far north-east corner. This is crossed and then head east past Finney Hill Green where you turn left to Prospect Hill.
Rainbow over Allendale
From Low Scotch Hall to here the views all around are exceptionally good. You can see most of the route walked and they give a feeling of the spaciousness of this part of Northumberland. From Prospect Hill the town of Allendale is now below you and it is an easy walk downhill through open land to arrive back at the start. All of the pubs here are good and welcoming and supply a wide range of beers. My personal preferences are the Golden Lion and the Kings Head although the latter has l believe changed hands recently so will need checking out. If possible try a beer from the nearby brewery at Allendale and if they are not available in the town the Crown at Catton one mile towards Hexham is the brewery tap for Allendale beer and also serves good food.
Alternative Early Summer Route
If you are doing this walk in early summer there is an alternative route back to Allendale which enables you to see some of the restored hay meadows funded by the North Pennines AONB. After leaving Loaning Stead and arriving at Steel turn left immediately before the house and cross the Steel Beck by the footbridge. The meadow on your left which has the bastle has been restored. Turn right to pass Steel Woodhead heading north-east crossing into a further field. Continuing north-east at the end of this field the path turns left to Wooley shown as South Wooley on the AONB walk leaflet. The meadow on your left approachong Wooley as well as two on your right have all been restored. On the road turn right towards Allendale for about 100 yards and then left over the Wooley Burn towards Parkside, passing to the right of the buildings. Continue heading north to Wager House on the road through other restored meadows where you now go downhill back to Allendale.
Titlington Pike and Kimmer Lough
Filed under: OtherDistance: 8 miles or 11 miles
Start: Eglingham Village (GR107195)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map : OS Explorer Map 332 – Alnwick and Amble, Craster and Whittingham
The weather forecast for the west and the Pennines was grim so after a brief discussion the five of us opted for a drier area according to the forecast. Without further ado we headed north to the village of Eglingham which is on the B6346 between Alnwick and Wooler. Some time ago we had started near here to go to Old Bewick, Blawearie and Ros Castle and this had proved to be a good day out. We took the opposite direction this time and although there was nearly 250 years of walking in the group of Alan, Clive, Les, Ray and myself the walk was all going to be on new paths which is extremely rare for us.
Eglingham is a pleasant village in good arable land yet close to the hills. The village church is dedicated to St Maurice which is not common although Ellingham to the north of Alnwick has a church also dedicated to St Maurice. Here the church has antiquity going back at least to the 13th Century. The local pub the Tankerville Arms serves quality food and keeps its beer in a prime condition.
The attraction of the walk was the high number of places on the map where there are markers for old forts and camps. To start the walk we headed along the road towards Wooler passing Eglingham Hall on the left. Some of this dates back to the 16th Century but the main building is from 1704. It is necessary to go to Eglingham Cottage about half a mile from the village. The barn at Cockhall which you pass on the right was built to give the appearance of a much older monastical building. We head off on a footpath having ignored the earlier bridleway on the left and cross two fields to the border of Great Wood. This is obviously a wood of some age which has been planted with conifers about 50 years ago but nevertheless you pass some magnificent beech trees on the edge of the wood. After a short while where the wood border does a 90 degree turn you enter the wood by a waymarked gate and head south-west for a short distance before exiting the wood. The view in front looks wet with reeds and has a small stream which is crossed by a bridge but presents no difficulty.
Titlington Pike from the bridleway.
Ahead of you is open country leading up to Titlington Pike but we leave that for another day and continue on the bridleway still heading south-west on a clear track which eventually reaches the minor road. It was autumn when we were here and a large flock of bean geese were feeding in the stubble. How nice to see the stubble being left. Continue on through Beanley and at the crossroads turn left on a permitted track. This is a fine track which heads south, passing by a pond used for duck shooting, and later crosses a minor road near Shepherds Law. On reaching the open access under Titlington Pike the track turns west with many fine ash trees on either side, to reach a minor road. This is taken left round the pike to where the road for Titlington Mount is taken. This is an access road only and the farm reached in about one mile has been altered to include what appears to be holiday accommodation. On passing through the buildings the bridleway continues in a north-east direction with abundant pheasants around.
Here, looking across the valley to the south can be seen a structure called Jennys Lantern. One story has this as a place where the lady of the farm nearby lit a lantern to guide her husband home from the pub at Eglingham, which seems highly unlikely! A more probable explanation is that it is a folly erected by the landowner in the past. The hills here show settlements and a cup and ring marked stone although they are too far off route to visit on this walk. We enter the open access at a wood (GR107187) which is soon passed through to leave you on open moor. The hill off to the right was also the site of an ancient settlement which can be clearly seen. On breasting the hill you are looking down on the Eglingham Burn with Kimmer Lough below you to the right. These moors are very good for waders in spring. The path (hard to call it a track) is now heading north and after descending through a burnt area of gorse crosses a large reed area to arrive on pasture at GR118185 near to the road. The marsh area is a good site to see snipe which breed near here. If you only want a 8 mile walk you can head west here to Eglingham in just over a mile.
For a longer walk head east towards Kimmer Lough on a bridleway which passes close to it. If you want to get closer be prepared to get your feet wet! Lough is from the same derivation as loch and is Northumbrian with the main congregation being near to Hadrians Wall. The most southerly was in Gateshead on top of a hill at Beacon Lough.
Kimmer Lough
Kimmer Lough is not visited often but holds plenty of perch and pike as well as yellow water lilies in summer. On the day of our visit it held a large flock of about sixty Canada Geese. The bridleway you are on crosses the outlet from the Lough and then you can follow the track to East Bolton. It is easier to stay on the track close to the wall than cross the field on the line of the bridleway and disturb the cattle which will probably be grazing there.
At East Bolton Farm head north-east for about half a mile to the bridleway at GR135169 where the bridleway is taken back towards Kimmer Lough. Opposite Shipley Moor at GR130178 go north-west over the reedy area (where the going is surprisingly good) to pass Bannamoor Farm on your right and arrive back at the point where you were earlier. The same direction is continued, quite close to the road, until Eglingham is reached. The waymarking here could be improved. It is necessary to cross the beck by a concrete bridge towards the right after passing through a gate in a wall and then take the opening into an area which looks like a small field or someones back garden. In fact it is village land where they have their bonfires and with the burn on your left you reach the road by a stile to find yourself next to the village hall where you may have parked your car. The other parking place is next to the church.
Postcript: We had a fine day. Our friends who went to the Pennines had a day of continuous rain. Well worth the effort!
A Walk from Masham to the Druids Temple
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12.5 miles
Start: Masham
Map : OS Explorer Map 26 – North Yorkshire Moors: Western Area
Click to view start position on Google Maps
There was a 50mph gale blowing and the promise of heavy showers in the North Pennines so it was an easy decision to go to more hospitable territory. But where? After a short discussion it emerged that neither Alan, Brian or Les had been to the Druids Temple near Masham so there we went parking in the square at the centre of the town. Of course we only had the Nidderdale map and the path to the temple was on the Northallerton and Thirsk map Explorer 302. This was purchased at the Tourist Office and a brief examination showed that the route to the temple was on the Ripon Rowel Walk. This is a 50 mile circular walk around Ripon and was devised by the Ripon Group of the Ramblers Association. It is specifically highlighted on the Explorer maps and we then made another decision to buy the book and do the whole walk in the winter, a nice lowland walk! The man in charge of the Tourist Information Centre promised that we would find it a better than expected walk.
The route out of Masham passes the Theakston Brewery (be careful there is also the Black Sheep Brewery) and leaves Masham at the north-west corner of the town along Westholme Road after the brewery. The book is written with the walker going in a clockwise direction so there was a little bit concentration needed as we were going anti-clockwise but in any case the waymarking is excellent and l can only assume that the Ramblers Association had an input here. You leave up a lane passing a cattle food factory and this soon changes to a footpath. You then pass to the left of some buildings and emerge on to Micklebury Lane after half a mile where you turn left (south) down to the bend where the road changes name to Havernook Lane. Here you turn west on a good bridleway over Fearby Low Moor to another road where you turn left (south) down past Swinton Saw Mill and on to Explorer 26 (298) for those with newer maps. This Nidderdale map will be used for the rest of both this walk and the Rowel Way, although the last mile into Masham is back on 302.
After crossing the beck you continue uphill on the road for a short distance to a junction where you go west and, where the road heads south, continue west passing Broadmires Farm. The route is clear past Hall Wood and at GR168794 there is a three-way signpost. You have to virtually go back on yourself and head east-south-east aiming for the stile near Broadmires Wood, which is crossed, and continuing in the same direction you reach Knowle Lane (after transferring to the other side of Knowle Plantation). Here you leave the Rowel Way for a short time and head south-west up the dead end road to the Druids Temple.
This is an early example of job creation in the early 19th Century by William Danby of Swinton Hall and is obviously based on Stonehenge although there is also a cave on the site. It was built when Swinton Hall had been completed to keep the workforce employed. After walking round the site it is back down the lane for a short distance to where you emerged onto Knowle Lane and the track taken south passing High Knowle Farm and descending to Sale Beck Plantation where you head east to a road. Here you turn right, cross the beck and head up steeply to Ilton Village, a pleasant spot and worthy of a rest.
The Druids Temple Folly
At Manor Farm you drop down the waymarked path which is wet here and cross the stile on to the grouse moors and butts heading south-east. You are on open moors here and although they are not high there are great views all the way to Tyneside, Teeside and the Cleveland Hills. After about a mile you come to a very good lane at Moscar which looks a very good way onto open moors all the way to Nidderdale. Here we leave the Rowel Way and head east down the access road to Moscar and continue straight ahead on the road past Hutts Cottages. Shortly after passing these there are two footpath signs on the left at the entrance to Nutwith Common Wood. Take the nearest to the road and on a good path walk through some excellent beech woods. This is a lovely woodland walk for two miles to the Grewelthorpe road where you will see a car park just to the left on the other side of the road. This is for visitors to Hackforth Wood which was purchased recently for a large amount of money by the Woodland Trust. There is full access (as in all Woodland Trust properties) to the full 117 acres which was bought by the Aislabie family in 1731. The same family owned Studley Royal and Fountains Abbey where they developed follies, ponds and cascades.
Eventually you arrive at the River Ure which is followed upstream through masses of Himalyan Balsam passing Nutwith Cote Farm which has bee bowls and unusual dovecotes. It is necessary to leave the Ure some distance after this and come inland to the road to cross the River Burn before returning to the Ure. It is now only a mile back to Masham alongside the river on the Rowel Way passing the sewage works and arriving back to the square. All in all this is a very varied walk and as the man said in the Tourist Information Centre surprisingly good!
The Southern Hills Above Lanchester
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12.5 miles
Start: Car park on Lanchester Valley Railway Walk, Newbiggin Lane, Lanchester
Map : OS Explorer Map 307 – Consett & Derwent Reservoir
Click to view start position on Google Maps
This walk of 12 miles complements the Northern Hills above Lanchester walk which is of a similar distance. For those who enjoy a really long walk they can be put together to give a marathon type distance such as those enjoyed by members of the Long Distance Walkers Association (LDWA). This fine organisation with an excellent newsletter have challenge walks throughout the country, including County Durham and full details of them can be found on their website. Neither of the two routes passes the Roman Fort of Longovicium as regretably there is no public footpath from Lanchester, although a footpath used on this route does pass quite close near Middlewood Farm passed towards the end of the walk.
Lanchester is an attractive village situated in the valley of the Smallhope Burn which rises in the hills to the west above Knitsley. It is not in the Browney Valley as many think but parts of this valley are explored during this walk. Lanchester has an impressive history with the Roman Fort of Longovicium only about half a mile to the south-west on the Satley road and the village is skirted by Dere Street which passed the fort before continuing on to the fort of Ebchester and beyond. Dere Street went from York to Scotland and the fort here was probably established after the Romans had retreated back to the Forth/Clyde line where they built the Antonine Wall. The Roman meaning of Lanchester means long town incidentally. For strangers to the area the village deserves some of your time to wander around with pride of place going to the Norman church of All Saints on the far side of the bypass. Nickolaus Pevsner descibes it as one of the most rewarding parish churches in the county. It was built in the 12th Century utilising the very convenient source of building stone of the nearby fort, but in addition the church chancel was rebuilt in the 13th Century and contains some excellent stone zig-zag markings which can also be observed in Durham Cathedral and other Norman buildings. The other churches, both the Methodist with its sensitive addition and the early 20th Century Roman Catholic church also add to the quality of the buidings of Lanchester, as does the branch Library which in the past has served many purposes including that of a workhouse.
Lanchester All Saints Church
We start the walk at the car park on Newbiggin Road on the site of the former Lanchester Valley Railway. The function of this line was to provide a good route for iron ore to reach the expanding steelworks of Consett, Prior to the opening of this line the ore had reached Consett on a circuitous route of the old Stockton and Darlington railway via Crook and then by the Waskerley line (now a fine walkway) to reach Consett after passing over Hownsgill. It also served to transport coal from the mines in the area particularly from Bearpark and Langley Park although there were also smaller pits at Malton and Lanchester. The line opened in 1862, a famous year in Tyneside folklore, as that was the year when on the 4th of June that everyone went along the Scotswood Road to the Blaydon Races! The line was never a success for passenger traffic and indeed Lanchester station closed in 1939 to passengers although it did open for passengers for specials such as the Durham Miners Gala. The last Gala train ran on 17/7/1954. There were four stations on the line at Lanchester, Malton, Langley Park and Bearpark (which was known as Aldin Grange until 1927).
Leaving the carpark in a southerly direction we reach, almost immediately after leaving the village we reach a small wood of just over 3 hectares called Doras Wood which is owned by the Woodland Trust. A group from Lanchester help to look after this wood and other places hereabouts with conservation work. Leaving the railway line we walk alongside the burn and arrive at Watersmeet where the River Browney and the Smallhope Burn meet. This, in the past was a good place to see little owls but recently none have been seen. However the whole of this area is good for many common species and in winter fieldfare and redwing can be found. In summer there are plenty of skylarks in the fields alongside the track although sadly this species is declining nationally, along with the thrushes which also inhabit this valley. Continuing along the river bank after a further half a mile you will reach Malton Picnic Park where an area of massive industrial damage has been restored by Durham County Council.
Here we cross the river into a small collection of houses that are all that is left of Malton Colliery village. Note the War memorial at the end of the terrace of houses. At the end of the terrace we take the footpath in a south-east direction towards Biggen Farm and pass through a Nature Reserve ran by the Durham Wildlife Trust. On leaving Biggen Farm we take the lane to the right crossing the minor road to Esh and arrivie at Quebec village. Esh down the road has a good footpath scheme developed some years ago in the Parish Paths Project which also provided maps of all the footpaths in the village. The name is a corruption of Ash.
At Quebec we are on the route of Dere Street for a shortwhile (more on this later) and opposite Greenland Road at the junction we pick up the track leading to Heugh which is actually Dere Street. At the end of the second field on the right we head south with views to the left of Esh Winning and the Deerness Valley. In less thah quarter of a mile we turn right heading broadly west to Rowley Farm and arrive at Hedleyhill Lane at a bend in the road. Just before Rowley Farm there are earthworks which appear to be from a medieval dwelling but as yet l have no knowledge of what this was.
In the past further up Hedleyhill road was a pub called The Fir Tree which was known throughout the area as Hogans after the family that owned it. This was quite a common practice as pubs stayed in family ownership for many years but this is very rare now. Just before the road on the left to Waterhouses (known to some as Moffattland) we turn right to Bells House on a good track and a few yards from the farm we head steeply down to the right (north) to Low Row after crossing the road. We now proceed uphill to North Ravensbush Wood. It is best to be here in late spring as this wood is a superb place for bluebells and rarely visited being on a minor footpath. At the top of the wood we go west, crossing four fields to arrive at Cornsay village (not to be confused with Cornsay Colliery village two miles to the east). The views across to Hedleyhope fell are very fine. The village green here makes an excellent rest stop with its quirky old well.
The Browney Valley from a point just east of Cornsay village.
We leave Cornsay to the north descending steeply down Cornsay Lane, and then take the footpath on the right after the bend in the road at GR148441. The footpath contours round the field before going downhill to the road opposite Ragpath Side Farm. Recently this farm was used for a dry stone walling competition. We now head right (east) for a short distance on the road and then take a footpath on the left which soon rejoins a very minor road at Ragpathside Plantation. We continue along the road ignoring the first path on the left to Throstle Nest Farm (Thrushes Farm) and turn into the access road for Colepike Mill crossing the River Browney.
Colepike Mill was a fulling mill. Fulling (known as waulking in Scotland) is a process in the making of woollen cloth where the wool is pounded to remove dirt and oils etc and to make it thicker, This was originally done by stamping on it when it was covered in urine, hence the term walking to describe fulling. This system was replaced by power from water mills which carried out the process mechanically. Fulling Mills in Wales were known as pandy and this crops up in many Welsh place names. After thickening the wool was stretched on tenters fixed by tenterhooks and this led to the well known expression still in use today. Finally the material could be bleached by stretching it out and leaving it to action from sun and water, but the discovery of chlorine made this process redundant. The OS map indicates bleach green here so it is a safe assumption that bleaching was carried out. It is worth noting that fulling was started by the Arabs arriving in Spain in the 12th Century before reaching Britain.
From Colepike Mill we go north heading up to Middlewood Farm and note that the direction changes in the third field after leaving the mill. Here it crosses diagonally across the field instead of the field edge and directly across the next two fields to the farm. This farm goes back to the enclosure days and also took advantage of the supply of stone just down the road at the fort. It is now a short distance to the Satley road. We walk left for a short distance and take the road to the right to Upper Houses Farm which is the HQ for Lanchester Dairies. This is passed to reach one of the many Newbiggins to be found in the north. Here the old farm has been converted into housing and it is good to see that the gingang has been retained in the development. We now turn right towards Lanchester and after about 100 yards take the footpath on the left which drops onto the Lanchester walkway which is followed for one mile back to the start.
Further Information on Dere Street
Dere Street has been mentioned more than once in this walk description and overall l tend to feel that this Roman Road from York to the Forth valley is neglected. No doubt that this is probably due to the fact that much of it is still used and it is in rare places that the original road can be seen. Perhaps the best place to see the original track is on the Scottish side of the border coming from Chew Green which is at the head of the Coquet valley and walking down from the border to Towfoot and onwards towards Jedburgh where you can really feel the presence of the past in isolated country. This part of Dere Street is used for the Alternative Pennine Way path from Ashbourne in Derbyshire to Jedburgh. However on this walk you are walking on a track for a short distance at Quebec and the line of the road can be seen from Grenwell Farm at GR163458 leading up to the fort across the fields. In 2000 Durham County Council produced a useful leaflet on Dere Street which described the route and gave brief details of the forts on the route in our region, starting at Catterick and including Piercebridge (once in Durham), Binchester where part of the surface of Dere Street can be seen, Lanchester and Ebchester as well as mentioning further forts to the north such as Corbridge and Rochester. Dere Street was built circa AD80 and the original forts were timber built. The remains you see today were built of stone about 200 years later.
A good book to read for further information on the Roman occupation is “Roman England” by John Burke whilst on a more local note the books by Raymond Selkirk propose some very interesting theories which are backed up by facts in some cases. “The Piercebridge Formula” (1983), “On the Trail of the Legions” (1995) and “Chester-le-Street and Its Place in History” (2000).
Shincliffe and Low Burnhall Wood
Filed under: OtherDistance: 13 miles (or 13.5 miles with Gilesgate diversion)
Start: High Shincliffe, lay-by on old A177 (GR NZ295402)
Map: OS Explorer 308 – Durham and Sunderland and OS Explorer 305 – Bishop Auckland
Click to view start position on Google Maps
This excellent walk is good to do at any time of the year but is probably best in Autumn as there are several large deciduous woods on the route and many other areas with lots of trees. Furthermore it passes through the new acquisition of land by the Woodland Trust of Low Burnhall Wood and over the years walkers will be able to see the new wood develop in much the same way as has happened in Lotties Wood near Sunniside, Hedley Wood near Beamish and what is just starting at Elemore Wood near to Littletown and Easington Lane.
We start at the lay-by at High Shincliffe which was part of the old road and walk down it to the A177. Immediately opposite is a footpath sign and a nameplate which is Strawberry Lane and this is followed south on a tarmac surface. At the point where the road turns right to West Grange you continue south into a field where the route takes a slight kink to the left before resuming its direction south. West Grange is an old farm dating back to the 17th Century. Very soon this becomes a hedged lane where Durham County Council have done recent work improving the hedges. The route continues south for about 3/4 of a mile to a crossroad of paths where we keep straight ahead. The one on the left goes to South Grange whilst in the other direction to the west the bridleway goes to High Butterby Farm on the Weardale Way. Many of the farms here are called Granges named after their first use as a barn, where the French word for barn is a grange.
Strawberry Lane
It is straight ahead for a further mile to another crossroads of paths which are ignored. The path now enters a wood and on leaving the wood proceed south and then east to reach Tursdale House. This old farmhouse was formerly an old coaching inn and the small building on your right was a blacksmith’s shop which was converted to a house some time ago. I believe that the roofer committed suicide by stabbing himself on Durham Cathedral Altar about 50 years ago. Strawberry Lane was in fact a major road going to Durham in the 17th Century. The bridleway continues on the access road to Tursdale House downhill to reach Tursdale Beck and Hett Mill. On the other side is the Newcastle to London main line and the alarm for the crossing is heard frequently. We turn upstream on the north bank and follow the clear engineered path upstream in fine woodland and after about half a mile the footpath climbs uphill to exit the wood. On the day we did this walk in October all of the distance covered was alive with birdlife with numerous fieldfare and redwings as well as many yellowhammers and other birds feeding on the numerous berries.
On leaving the wood and turning left you cross through a hedge via two stiles with a waymark for the West Bowburn Way and continuing west with the wood on your left you walk the length of the field. Both magpies and jays can be seen in the wood and note the steep drop down to the beck. At the end of the field continue round the edge now heading north, ignore the first path on your left (where there is a new stile) and go through the next gate onto a broad track which is within the grounds of Croxdale Hall. The track descends to cross an outlet from the lake on your right by stepping stones. You now continue north over a stile and passing through newly created parkland for about 200 yards you soon reach a hard road which is the access road to High Croxdale Farm. We now head west and in less than half a mile come to Croxdale Hall. This was built about 1760 for General Salvin who was the father of the architect and is a Grade 1 listed building. Also listed as a Grade 1 listed building is the 12th Century chapel. The house still belongs to the Salvins and during World War 2 it served as a military hospital and then as a maternity hospital until 1952. Continuing west the carriageway crosses Tursdale Beck and passes between an avenue of trees before going under the A167, which was the old A1 north prior to the opening of the A1M, and arrives at the old Sunderland Bridge over the River Wear.
Sunderland Bridge
A bridge has been here since the 13th Century and although the date of the current bridge is not known it is thought to be from the 16th Century. It required major works in the 1700s on at least four occasions and the two central arches are the only full survivors as both the end arches collapsed. Turn right immediately over the bridge in front of the house to emerge on the A167 at its junction with the B6300. Cross both with extreme care and pass by the Honest Lawyer which certainly seems, like the pub in Derbyshire called “The Quiet Woman” a contradiction in terms! Shortly after crossing Browney Bridge there is a new gateway on your right which leads into Low Burnhall Wood.
This wood is now going to be planted in some of the meadows and pasture land which was bought at auction by the Trust and is 67 hectares (166 acres) in size. At first you follow the Browney down towards its outlet into the Wear and follow the new paths through meadows north towards Low Burnhall Farm. The site is currently being developed and planting will take place over the next 3 years (from 2010). There is already some Ancient Semi Natural Woodland alongside the river and the plan includes some wild flower meadows adjacent to the A167. Species being planted are all natural to this area and include ash, oak, hazel and rowan plus the black poplar which is quite uncommon.
The area on the other side of the Wear at Low Butterby has an oxbow lake to the south of the farmhouse and is an SSSI where you can find wildfowl in the winter. It is rare in having swamp, fen and fen carr all on the same site. Head north through the field (soon to be planted) to arrive at the access road to Low Burnhall Farm about 400 yards to the west of the buildings and here you pick up the public footpath. This passes to the left of most of the buildings (which are currently being converted to houses) and climbs up following the bend in the river and the contours, before dropping down steeply to cross a small beck by a footbridge. It is straight up then for a short distance to a field where the boundary is followed uphill to Pinnock Hill and emerges onto Hollingside Lane. In medieval days this was the main route north to Durham Cathedral. This unsurfaced road is taken north passing by the Botanic Garden on the left and then Grey College on the right to emerge on a busy road which is the road off the A167 at the Cock of the North roundabout to Durham Centre. Head uphill for a very short distance to cross it by the pedestrian crossing and then continue a few yards further uphill to a road junction where you turn right onto Elvet Hill Road and a sign pointing to the Oriental Museum.
You are now on university land and will pass the Government and International Affairs building followed by Teikyo University buildings on your left and Trevelyan College on the right to come to a t-junction with a cemetery on your left. Immediately opposite is a footpath sign where a broad track waymarked Quarry Heads Lane leads down to the Wear and Prebends Bridge. However on reaching the road take the footpath back up the hill to the Observatory where Salvin was the architect. Alternatively at Potters Lane junction where the footpath goes downhill, the area in front of you is open space with a footpath heading uphill in a north-west direction and at the top is a super view of Durham Cathedral which is best seen in late afternoon with the sun illuminating the western walls and windows. A right of way shown on the map from near the Observatory takes you past sport fields and through a new housing development in the grounds of Nevilles Cross College. This is followed round the back of some older houses to come to the A690 at Nevilles Cross near to a church.
Go down the road for a short distance and opposite some stairs on the other side of the road take an earth path on your right which leads to an infant school. This is followed downhill in a cutting to reach a road where you head north for about 200 yards. Just after a school on your right take a path down on your right through some allotments, up the other side to the right to eventually come out on South Street looking across to the cathedral. Head north here and just before the road starts to go downhill search out an opening on your left which leads into the churchyard of the church of St Margaret of Antioch. This is a restful place with a seat. The church looks modern but is in fact from Norman times although much altered by later work. Descend the steep steps at the front and turn downhill to reach the bridge over the Wear. It has been pedestrianised for many years and it is difficult to imagine the many buses which used to go over it! As soon as you cross the bridge and pass the path down to the river take the very narrow ginnel on your right which is marked as a route to the cathedral and castle and follow this narrow alley to emerge at the Shakespeare pub. This is reputedly one of the most haunted pubs in the country. Here turn left towards the market place and then immediately right down to Elvet Bridge. At the bridge take the steep steps on your left down to the river level at the boating station. You are again back on the Weardale Way.
The Weardale Way is followed upstream with the river on your right passing a footbridge leading to Old Elvet and continues to Old Durham and its walled garden. Here you also see the embankment of the old railway to Elvet Station. There are two alternatives depending on the amount of daylight available. The easy way back to the start is to follow the path behind the embankment, then cross the bridge over Old Durham Beck on the Weardale Way to reach the Wear. Then cross over to Maiden Castle sport fields and follow the riverside path to Shincliffe Bridge which is crossed. Turn right and go through Shincliffe village heading south to return to the A177 at the Seven Stars pub. This was the main road before the bypass. At the pub cross the A177 and follow the road on a footpath uphill back to the start.
However, a better way which avoids all roads is to turn left up the broad track at Old Durham, pass by Old Durham Farm and reach a t-junction near Bent House Farm. Here turn downhill towards the B1198 (called Mill Lane). About 200 yards before the beck, and where the track levels out, turn left through a farm gate (not waymarked) which crosses two fields to the side of the beck opposite the cattery and cutting across the bend you reach a footbridge and arrive on Mill Lane. Cross this with care and head east for a short distance to pick up a footpath which is on the route of the first railway into Durham, where Shincliffe served as the first Durham station. Go west along this path towards Shincliffe for a short distance and then take the footpath heading uphill to Manor Farm which is passed on your right. This is a new farmhouse built about 50 years ago on the site of Bank Top pit at High Shincliffe. The main farm building on your left was the winding house which pulled the waggons up and down on the slope that you have just climbed. It is now a short distance to the village houses and after the school turn right to the A177 and the start.
If you are doing this walk on a longer day l would recommend turning left at the first bridge you reach after dropping down to the river opposite the old public swimming pool (sadly currently in disrepair) and going uphill to Gilesgate. When you reach St Giles church where the slope eases turn right towards the church and then immediately left. There is a footpath past some cottages which after about 200 yards reaches a lane near to some new apartments built on the site of Woods lemonade factory and a waymark heading back to the river. The surprise here is the stream which is crossed by a footbridge very high above the water. This is a relatively unknown part of Durham known only to a few . At the end of the footbridge turn left. The other path on the right takes you quickly down to the river. The one on the left, which we take, goes gradually downhill across the contours to reach a lane which is stepped down back to the river and the Weardale Way only a short distance upstream from Old Durham. A worthwhile diversion and a quiet one which enhances the walk.
John Buchan Way (Peebles to Broughton)
Filed under: Border WalksDistance: 13 miles
Start: Peebles
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Sometimes in life things happen by accident and the John Buchan Way is a case in point. A group of ten of us had been walking the Border Abbeys Way which is a circular 65 mile walk linking up the border abbeys in the following sections:
Jedburgh to Hawick – 13 miles
Hawick to Selkirk – 12 miles
Selkirk to Melrose – 10 miles
Melrose to Kelso – 18 miles
Kelso to Jedburgh – 12 miles
These sections are not balanced and we jiggled about with the stages involving Melrose by extending the route from Selkirk to Melrose to Clint Mains shortening the 18 mile stage. The section to Selkirk was also shortened due to inclement weather. The walk was done on four occasions and two sections were done over the course of two consecutive days. Our base was the excellent Auld Cross Keys Inn at Denholm superbly ran by Karen and Dave. This is an old coaching inn which has been well modernised and has about ten good quality rooms. A feature is that they are all twins which is good news for both walking groups and golfing groups which also come to this fine area. Denholm is well positioned as the walk is broadly circular and Denholm is near to the hub with no section being more than 40 mins away by car. The inn has real ale as has the Fox and Hounds in the village which is a pleasant change for Scotland and the food is good value with more than adequate portions. The Auld Cross Keys is certainly a recommended place to stay and can be contacted on 01450 870305 or visit their website at www.crosskeysdenholm.co.uk
We went back for a second visit as two of our group had missed out a section (not the same one) so after a little bit of logistics we split into three parties. Two to do the missing sections and the other went on the Alternative Pennine Way from outside of Jedburgh up to the Roman marching camp at Towfoot, under the border ridge. This section of Dere Street is probably the most evocative of the whole of Dere Street due to the quiet situation, the route is still a path and has an old feel. The day ended with us all at Denholm by 6.30pm giving us plenty of time to enjoy a social night together.
The next day was free and we decided to walk the John Buchan Way which was new territory for all of us. The John Buchan Way is a 13 mile route from Peebles to Broughton and as both ends are linked by a good bus service it is easy to do as a linear walk with one car by parking at either end and using the bus. The route opened in 2003 and is named after the writer and diplomat John Buchan (1875-1940) who is probably best known as the writer of “The 39 Steps”. It is very well waymarked and makes use of the many hill tracks in the area with a minimum of road walking.
We set off with average expectations but these were heightened by the well thought out route out of Peebles over Cademuir Hill and its hillforts and fine views all round. We then dropped into the Manor Water which is followed to the Glack which is one house. There is then another pleasant ascent over the hills before you look down on to the Tweed valley and Stobo Kirk. This is only yards off the route and must be visited with the church going back to possibly 1120. A good place for lunch! There is good information in the church concerning Merlin and the stained glass windows.
John Buchan Way crossing the col on Cademuir
Leaving Stobo you go off into higher country up the Easton Burn and into remote sheep country under Penvalla. After a drop into a valley containing the isolated farm of Stobo Hopehead it is uphill again to Hammer Head and over the watershed where you follow the Broughton Hope Burn downhill to arrive at Broughton Place. I suggest that here you look back from whence you have came for a super view of the hills encircling you. We took several photos of this view. Broughton Place, contrary to what you expect, is a 20th Century building in the old Scottish style. It contains a fine art gallery and surely there is no other in such a fine position! It is now only a short distance into Broughton and the Laurel Bank Tearoom or the pub but note the fine garden on your right before the pub which is open to visitors. A little further on, also on the right, is the home of Broughton Ales which are recommended and have won many awards. The walk finally ends at the John Buchan Centre also on the right.
John Buchan Way - path to Broughton Hope
This is an absolutely superb walk in remote country where there are no shops and even few houses en route. The path is good underfoot and is on historical old drove routes. We did in fact meet three other walkers from Edinburgh who had came down for the day to do the walk and after completing the walk we have mentioned it to other walkers. All those who have tried it have been full of praise for it. Why not try it yourself – a great place for Bank Holidays away from the crowds.
The Borders Council originally produced excellent leaflets on each section of the Border Abbeys Walk with very detailed maps. Indeed you could walk the route using the maps. These have now been condensed into a book whilst the John Buchan Way is detailed on another leaflet. These can all be obtained from the Tourist Offices at Jedburgh and Melrose and other places on the route, as well as the Countryside Ranger Service HQ at Harestanes on the A68 near Ancrum to the north of Jedburgh, where there also is a shop and a tearoom with excellent scones!This is on the St Cuthberts Way.
Recommended books on this region are Alan Hall’s “The Border Country” from Cicerone, The SMC book “The Southern Uplands” by Ken Andrew and David Steel’s “The Border Country” with fine photos by Charlie Waite.
As regards the Border Abbeys Way, there are better walks for a few days such as the Cumbrian Way or the Dales Way but nevertheless this is a a pleasant walk in generally easy surroundings with plenty of space and some historic small border towns which are always a pleasure to be at.
A gentle area with gentle and friendly people and always the opportunity to take a day off and visit nearby Edinburgh.
Bilsdale and Bransdale
Filed under: OtherDistance: 14 miles
Start: Chop Gate village hall (OS 559993)
Map : OS Explorer Map 26 – North Yorkshire Moors: Western Area
Click to view start position on Google Maps
This walk shows the several aspects of this fine walking area which being in a National Park avoids many of the problems with footpaths encountered in other parts of the North riding of Yorkshire.
It starts at the Community Centre at Chop Gate, which is about 200 yards south of the pub, where there is parking, picnic tables and toilets. You leave on to the road and pick up the footpath on the far side of the road to William Beck Farm. In July 2010 there was notice of a sensible diversion round the farm to the north which I would expect to be in use shortly. The diversion passes behind the farm and comes to a lane heading east uphill steeply through Black Intake. A short distance after this levels out you arrive at a broad track which has been much improved for grouse shooting. This should be taken right and after a very short distance it descends down to Tripsdale Beck which is a nice secluded corner. There is an alternative footpath which can be used but this could well be grouse and other waders nesting territory and particularly in the nesting season this is probably best avoided.
The access track now heads east up on to Hag House Moor and Slape Wath Moor with extensive views all round and a feeling of space which is something that I like. About 2 miles after Tripsdale and after passing two lunch shelters for the grouse shooters (not open on our visit) the track joins a further large track heading in a north to south direction next to Stump Cross. This is an ancient road called the Thurkilsti track. The cross (which is a stump only) is on your left. Now go south looking down into Bransdale on your left and after one and a half miles you arrive at the tarmac road leading north to Cockayne. The walking has been very easy with little in the way of hills other than the climb up from Tripsdale. Note the cairns to the west which are a common feature on these moors.
Stump Cross
On reaching the road you head immediately south-west along a narrow track passing the oddly named Botany Bay on the OS map. The track, although small, is clear and obviously used by many walkers. In less than a mile it drops down to cross Bonfield Gill without a problem (unless in flood when you might get your feet wet) to pass to the right of a small wood and reach another broad track which is a further access track for the grouse business. Cross this track and continue for a further mile and a half in the same south-west direction to Black Holes, where the track joins a bridleway. Go down to a wall in front of you where there should be another wall coming up from Bilsdale joining the wall at right angles. Here is a gate and now follow the bridleway downhill, with the fence on your left, to enter Kirkhill Plantation. The track goes down to the left to reach the B1257. Here turn north for about 100 yards and take the footpath on your left which passes to the left of High Evecote and crosses the beck by a foot bridge. Watch out as it may be slippyhere. Continue north passing behind The Grange to arrive at a farm access road to Stigamyers and Coniser. Turn down in that direction (west) and where the road takes a sharp turn left, take the footpath to the north past Stable Holme. If you have crossed a small stream you have missed the correct route which is waymarked.
The route after Stable Holme is well defined alongside a wall to Beacon Guest where you head uphill on its access road and behind the house. It does not look right on the ground but it is the correct way. After going through one field you should go through a gate and follow the path north maintaining your height. The wall is on your right through open land with grazing cattle and sheep. On the other side of the wall is enclosed fields and after passing by three of these fields you will see High Crookleith Farm diagonally in front to your right. Take the obvious large gate in the wall (not waymarked) and head diagonally across the two fields towards it. Just before the buildings turn right and pass by a silage pit before going in a north-east direction to find a footbridge over Hollow Bottom Beck. The waymarking hereabouts is poor for a National Park. It now improves as you head left for a short distance back towards High Crookleith on their access road before taking the waymarked path to Low Crookleith. Here you follow the waymarked path right and then left to cross three fields where wheat is currently grown. This is quite a rare crop in this part of the valley. The hillside above High Crookleith suffered a big landslide a few years ago and prevented access to the farm for quite a while. At Orterley Farms turn north-east down to the River Seph (which can be wet through the woods) back to the start, or go to the west of Orterley Farm to then head north over three fields to the old mining track which then leads back down to the start.
Addendum
For those wanting more information on the crosses of ther North Yorks Moors there is an excellent booklet called “An Illustrated Guide to the Crosses of the North York Moors” by Elizabeth Ogilvie and Audrey Sleightholme, whilst Trailblazer also have a book on walking to the crosses.
Ogilvie and Sleightholme state that stump Cross has one of the largest bases of any of the crosses at 2ft 6ins square and in 1829 it was known as ‘the cross with a hand’, which was presumably a waymark.
They also state that a short distance from Stump Cross to the north-west the Thurkilsti joins the Via Magna which in 1154 was called the great road coming from the Thurskilsti. Note the change of spellimg. Was this the derivation of Thirsk?
Dodd Fell and the Pennine Way
Filed under: OtherDistance: 13 miles
Start: Gayle, opposite public room at GR872894
Map : OL 2 – Yorkshire Dales: South and West and OL 30 – Yorkshire Dales: Northern and Central
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Wednesday October 21st promised a day of total sunshine and clear visibility so there was little to discuss when we met at Chester le Street. It had to be the high hills where we could enjoy fine views and 90 minutes later we were parking in Gayle village next to Hawes. Our objective was a good stroll along the Pennine Way and a visit to Dodd Fell just off route as it was a 2000ft hill we had not climbed. It was the first day of winter in Gayle, but what a day with clear skies and a thick frost in all the places out of the sun. Without further ado it was over the roadbridge towards Hawes and then turning upstream past some attractive cottages alongside Gayle Beck and the West End to pick up the Pennine Way on the left of the lane. After one field you turn right and over a further two fields to emerge at tarmac. A few yards to the right and it is left again up Gaudy Lane for half a mile to the place where there is a barn and the entrance to Gaudy House which is a farm. Here you leave the track and get onto grass which is followed uphill keeping alongside the wall. At the first gate you reach open access land. The way ahead is clear and the path is not damaged over Rottenstone Hill and onwards upwards.
The footpath eventually levels off and indeed descends for a short while before joining a bridleway on the right. This is Cam Road West. The route is alongside a wall with lovely views down into Snaizeholme Beck on your right. The bulk of Dodd Fell is in front of you just to the left of the Pennine Way. We decided to go up as soon as we reached the bottom rather than stay on the Pennine Way and this was a good decision as it is reasonably easy to gain height on several of the faint sheep tracks. The top is fairly level and wet so watch your feet when approaching the trig point. Although a modest height (and certainly Dodd Fell is a fell) the views were tremendous. To the south you look out to the edge of Pen y Ghent and the distant Pendle Hill. To the west is Ingleborough and Whernside and to the north Great Shunner Fell and Lovely Seat, whilst behind is Nine Standards Rigg and Wild Boar Fell. Looking east there is Addlebrough and behind the North Yorksire Moors. The Lakes were very clearly visible with the Langdale Pikes and Great Gable standing out. What a view and what a distance! When you ascend Newbiggin Common in Teesdale (another 2000 ft hill) you get a similar 360 degree view without the Lakes but as a bonus you can see Scotland and the Cheviots, and in both cases (and particularly on Newbiggin Fell) you can see over 100 miles!
On the West Cam Road
It was too wet to sit down on the summit so we headed south towards Pen y Ghent. The terrain was more akin to Bleaklow or nearby Yockenthwaite Moor but there are dry ways through and as you are looking down you can see them. After about 25 minutes you arrive at a wall where you turn left (east) and follow this to the corner where you turn down and in a short distance arrive on tarmac on the Cam High Road at North Gate. Cam High Road was developed by the Romans as a route from Ribblesdale to Bainbridge where they had a camp and years later served as a pack horse route.
North Gate was decision point with three alternatives. These were (a) go east along Cam High Road all the way to Bainbridge and get the bus back to Hawes, (b) go east along Cam High Road and turn off to Buttersett and back to Gayle or (c) go west along Cam High Road to rejoin the Pennine Way and return to Gayle on another route. The latter route was chosen so that we could enjoy the fine views for another hour and a half. Cam High Road here is surfaced as it serves as the access road to Cam Houses and Cam Pasture which can be seen ahead in front of the forest. This is on the Dales Way which shares a short distance on Cam High Road with the Pennine Way.
The valley on your left is the headwaters of the River Wharfe . It is over a mile on the Cam High Road before you come to the Pennine Way junction at Kidhow Gate and the junction is well marked. You now turn north on the Pennine Way with Dodd Fell on your right and the head of Snaizdale Beck on your left. This deepens rapidly to give a beautiful valley and a small lake set amongst woodland. You have about 3 miles enjoying this before you reach the junction where Cam Road West descends to the left and the Pennine Way ascends slightly. We had earlier came down that section but overall there is only about one mile on the Pennine Way which was walked earlier in the day.
To vary our walk we took the Cam Road West steeply downhill on a track which has been destroyed by the 4WD brigade. It levels out near a wood and at the end of the wood the surface is improved. You have to ask the question of who pays for the massive damage that these vehicles cause spoiling the route for walkers, cyclists and horseriders alike? I read recently that over £1 million has been spent on the Walna Scar road and that 6 months later the road was back in the same state. Equally the massive spend at Old Ing a few miles south of here towards Horton on the Pennine Way was back into its original damaged state within a few months. With the current economic squeeze will these vast expenditures cause many bridleways and footpaths to be neglected or will the authorities allow some of these 4WD routes to deteriorate further? Time will tell…
The views ahead down towards Hawes are attractive and just before reaching the A687 turn right into Bands Lane passing the farm. At the t-junction you can go either left and stay on the tarmac or better go right for a short distance to pick up the Pennine Way. At the end of the second field you leave the Pennine Way which actually misses out Gayle and go straight ahead on a good track over one field to come into Gayle and back to the car.
This great day ended in the George and Dragon at Aysgarth where we all enjoyed a pint of George and Dragon beer brewed by Yorkshire Brewing which is a small but expanding brewery at nearby Askrigg and is brewed for the pub.
Up and Around Stanhope Burn
Filed under: OtherDistance: 13 to 14 miles
Time: 6hrs 30mins
Start: St Thomas Church, Market Square, Stanhope (GR NY 996392)
Map : OS Explorer 307 – Consett and Derwent Reservoir
Click to view start position on Google Maps
The Stanhope Burn is popular with discerning walkers but is not known as well as it might be. This is possibly due to the fact that its entrance from Stanhope is not particularly obvious although everyone going over Crawleyside from Stanhope to Edmundbyers looks down on it and its obvious attractions. It is a haven for a wide variety of birdlife and for flora and on top of this there is an interesting history of exploitation for mineral wealth.
There was a lead smelter at Stanhope Mill and also a blast furnace for the production of steel operated by the Weardale Iron Company. The lead itself was mined further up the valley and on the right of the valley when ascending were the limestone quarries, now disused, at West Pasture. This is on the east side of the Stanhope Burn. This limestone was taken out of the Wear Valley by the railway line belonging to the Stanhope and Tyne Railway but more of that later when we descend from Parkhead down the incline.
The Stanhope Burn is followed down for all of its length on the Weardale Way walk from Stanhope to Rookhope and returning to Stanhope via Redgate Head and Steward Shield. On this walk we will go up the western side of the burn to eventually reach the C2C route which is followed to Parkhead and then descend the eastern side above the burn. This will give extensive views of Weardale and the Durham moors which are an integal part of the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).
Stanhope itself, where we start, is an interesting small town and one can easily spend a half day or more exploring it and the surroundings. St Thomas Church goes back to Norman times some of which still survives in the base of the western tower. The arch of the tower is pointed and is obviously later than Norman. The church also contains Frosterley Marble columns. This church gave the richest living in England due to the lead industry and the high value of the tithes paid to the rectors for the rights to explore and mine for lead. Some of this wealth was used by Bishop Barrington to build schools in the area but the driving force here was probably to compete with the Methodists and Wesleyans who enjoyed much support in Weardale. Near to the entrance is the famous fossil tree which was mined on Edmundbyers Moor and later moved to its current location. Next year sees its 50th anniversary in this place as it arrived in Stanhope in 1962. Note also the story on the nearby Moorcock Inn. Opposite is Stanhope Castle rebuilt in 1798 on the site of an old tower. Further east is the Dales Centre with a TIC currently under threat of closure and the centre also has other facilities and shops.
We proceed west along the main road to pass the Edmundbyers road and cross the Stanhope Burn. Straight after this we turn right to enter the burn and pass Stanhope Hall. This is a very interesting building which has in its western parts a medieval construction date of the 13th Century. Note and mullioned and transomed windows which date back to either Jacobean or Elizabethan times. The other main history of this burn is the famous Heathery Burn Cave, the site of which was about a mile up the valley. This cave was 500 ft long and when discovered contained the tools of a Late Bronze Age metal workers site including tongs and moulds etc. Antler check pieces from horse bits were also found and are the earliest finds of the use of chariots in the country. More macabre were the broken skulls also found. Sadly the cave was lost due to the site being quarried for limestone but all of the artefacts are housed in the British Museum.
There is a choice of routes and in dry weather the best route is via Widley Field and Pease Mires to arrive at High House. However after periods of wet weather an easier alternative, albeit on a very quiet road, is the minor road which leaves the A689 just after the entrance to Stanhope Hall and goes to Noahs Ark (at somewhere about 1000 ft above sea level) before continuing to High House on a footpath. We now descend to Stewarts Shield on an indistinct path and ford the Stanhope Burn (possibly wet feet after rain) before climbing up to the C2C. An alternative route maintaining height goes over Stanhope Common on a track to the shooting hut on Hawk Sites where there is a relatively easy mile to the C2C passing the grouse butts. This is open access land but should be avoided in the grouse season commencing on August 12th and is the best route up giving good views and saving a descent and further climb.
Having done all the various routes up my preferred route is to go up Stanhope Burn to GR 987401 where there is a corner in the wood. Look for the stile hidden behind a large tree trunk and head up to Widley Field passing an old adit mine entrance. At Widley turn left up the access road to the tarmac road and cross straight over. Skirt the side of the wood ahead, go through a gate and on reaching the fence turn right, Head along the fence and cross the stile before proceeding to Pease Mires. Here go through the gate into the farmyard and turn right round the back of a large barn where the track then proceeds north through a gate on to more open land. Ignore the path heading south-west to Mount Pleasant and go north-west eventually crossing the river by a bridge. Continue to now head noth-east, passing to the left of Park Shops which are a relic of the mining industry to get to High House. Here go on behind the house and down the side of the plantation passing a lake (not on the map) to a broad track on the left through the forest. Take this to arrrive at Hope House which was once an animal sanctuary. Turn left on the broad track which goes to the left gradually uphill and across fine moorland (where the birdlife in spring is superb with abundant golden plover and numerous meadow pipits, lapwings, curlew and of course red grouse) to arrive at a shooting hut after about one and a half miles. It is now best to go about another 100 metres behind the hut and go due north along the contour to reach the C2C route. The extra climb saves having to drop down to the tributary streams of the Stanhope Burn.
The C2C uses here the old trackbed of the Weardale Iron Company track from Rookhope to Parkhead where it joined the Stanhope line. This was built in 1847 to supply their blast furnaces at Tow Law with the iron stone they quarried at Rookhope and at over 1600ft (500 metres) this was the highest standard gauge railway line in the country. The line survived to 1943 and is now much used by walkers and cyclists. The steam engines halted at the top of the Boltsburn Incline (Redgate Head) where the winding house was used to haul the waggons the 66ft (approximately 200 metres) up from Rookhope. The ruins remain on site of buildings and the engine house.
Our route is east to Parkhead which was a junction where the Stanhope and Tyne met the Rookhope branch. It had a station and the building survives (albeit much modified) as accommodation at the Parkhead Cafe which is much appreciated by C2C riders! The old line was initially developed by Durham County Council as one of their railway paths and is known as the Waskerley Way after the station and old shed which were two miles down the line from Parkhead. The Stanhope and Tyne was, in fact, the first railway to Stanhope, and was built to carry limestone to the Tyne. It also later carried lead and ironstone with return loads of coal. The descent to Stanhope and the quarries was over 700ft on a steep slope and to achieve this the waggons were hauled by Stationary engines at Weatherhill and lower down at Crawleyside. Anyone over 50 will remember the gaunt engine house at Weatherhill. It is a pity that this was pulled down as it is now local history and complemented sites such as Killhope. The line from Parkhead to Stanhope closed in 1951 and the section from Parkhead over Hownesgill viaduct to Consett lasted until 1968. Stanhope was later reached by the easier route up the Wear valley in 1862 but progress further up the valley was slow with the line not reaching Wearhead for another 33 years in 1895. Nevertheless it then did take traffic from the routes over the fells and had further business with the development of Teeside.
There is a choice of routes back to Stanhope from Parkhead. The obvious way is to follow the railway parallel to the road to Crawleyside Engine House at GR995406 and then going along the top of the limestone escarpment called Crawley Edge to Jollybody Farm at GR003395, where a track takes you down to Stanhope.
For those wanting a closer look at Stanhope Burn an alternative is to leave the track about half a mile after Weatherhill, cross the B6278 and follow the clear track down to Stanhope Burn and the mine workings. It is then straightforward on the old quarry road back to Stanhope Hall. The track brings you onto the Crawleyside road which is followed down to Stanhope and back west to the hall, or alternatively the burn can be crossed to its west side. This eventually comes to the spot where you left it to head up to Widley.
If the weather is good then great views can be obtained by walking down to Weatherhill and passing by the Millstone Quarries to the east and then taking the footpath over Bashaw Head and the top of the Black Burn valley to descend to Hill Crest to reach Jollybody Farm. This can be difficult to find but if you head due south to the building on the horizon about a mile away there is no problem. Note the sheepfold of Bashaw Fold on the way down. A further footpath further to the east takes you to Collier Law with superb views to the north-east down to the Derwent Valley and Tyneside. From there you can drop down to Frosterley but that is another walk.
Whatever route is taken, in springtime this area is alive with waders such as curlew, peewits (lapwings), snipe in wetter patches and golden plover on higher ground, with oystercatchers near the Stanhope Burn, plus of course the red grouse and occasional black grouse.
For those wanting to know more about the North Pennines AONB there is much information to be obtained from their website. They also produce some interesting booklets, some of which have been discontinued due to the financial cutbacks. Another good source of information is Iain Brown’s excellent book called “The North Pennines” published in 2006 by Summary House Publications. I cannot recommend this book highly enough!
FOOTNOTES:
1. For those that do not recognise the scene on the cover of the Explorer Map the view shown is an error by the Ordnance Survey who used a photograph of another Derwent reservoir in the Derbyshire Peak District!
2. The longer routes are those via Jollybody Farm.
Cold Fell and Geltsdale
Filed under: Durham 2000ft HillsDistance: 12 miles
Start: Car Park, Tindale (South Tyne Valley)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map : OS Explorer 31 – Teesdale and Weardale
This walk was done to walk up and tick off Cold Fell from the list of 2000 foot hills left to walk and to make a decent walk of it we decided on a route via Geltsdale and arrive at the summit from the south-west. Walkers who tick off lists and complete various heights of hills are often criticised but when l was doing the Wainwrights over twenty years ago l found out two things; dedication was a necessity and the benefit was that you visited many corners you would never normally get to by sticking to your favourites. The 2000 foot hills carry on this message and led us to discovering Geltsdale which was subsequently walked in detail on another walk.
This walk commences at the hamlet of Tindale in the quiet countryside west of Lambley in the South Tyne valley. Years ago this area had some small coal mines and much bigger quarries and this is evident by the quarries which are visited on this walk and the derelict railways. One of these came to Tindale and its quarry before eventually joining the South Tyne Alston branch at Lambley not far from its superb restored viaduct. The South Tyne railway route from Haltwhistle to Alston is now a fine cycle and walkway.
There is a small car park at Tindale which you leave on a bridleway which goes west and can be seen, (although not always obvious!) on the ground. After about half a mile you go through a gate and continue with the RSPB reserve of Tindale Tarn on your left. At Thorn cross the small road and continue in the same direction to just south of Clesketts where another railway track is met at a junction of old tracks. Take the track to Forest Head at spot height 264 where and then turn left (south-east). This path goes across a disused quarry where there is one dangerous quarry face (which can be avoided) and after working through the quarry you will arrive on the Geltsdale track at GR587570. This is a super track which winds round Brown Hill and heads south. There are immediate views up and down Geltsdale which heads west about here. The two shepherds cottages of Gairs are below you and the way south is very attractive and easy.
Eventually after three miles you reach Old Water where a sheltered spot can be found. Here you turn left (east) up Old Water again on a good track which is followed on a gradual climb for over a mile. Around this stage the track disappears and we opted to reach Cold Fell which was somewhere above us by heading across the contours on a north-north-east bearing. The going here is very wet with hidden holes and demands respect. We aimed for Cold Spring at GR605546 but never found it, but this was no problem as by keeping on a north-east bearing you eventually come to the fence separating Tynedale from Geltsdale. In retrospect next time we will try to follow Old Water to the fence at GR618539 (to the north of Great Blacklaw Hill) and follow the faint path alongside the fence.
Cold Fell Summit
The summit of Cold Fell is interesting since it has rocks, which is a rare feature hereabouts. Leaving the summit you can descend in a north-east direction alongside the fence (with good views to the north) to a sheepfold at GR611562 and then head north-west over virgin territory for less than half a mile before picking up a track which was used for shooting in the past. I am not certain whether the RSPB now permit this as the area is a good breeding ground for waders. The track downhill is a beauty, especially after some of the more difficult ground already walked and arrives at Howgill Farm after one mile. Ahead is Tortie but we take the footpath (which is waymarked and good underfoot) alongside Howgill Beck and past Stagsike to arrive at the RSPB office at Tarn House. This is a lovely area which can be strolled on a short day and the excellent footpath continues past the tarn and to the south of Tindale Quarry. At the end of the quarry you leave the old mine track and pass Doleshole to arrive at the A689. Here you turn left over Woodend Bridge and up the minor road at Riggfoot Farm back to the start. This walk is at times hard but is rewarding for the quality of the country and the wide open spaces.