Distance: 12 miles (without the extensions)
Map : OS Explorer OL30 (Yorkshire Dales – North and Central)
Start: Barningham Village (GR NZ084103)
This walk starts in the very attractive village of Barningham and indeed this area has other fine villages such as Newsham a little to the east and further on in the same direction Ravensworth. However in my view Barningham comes top of the list with its lovely green and pleasant mixture of 17th Century and 18th Century houses. This is a long village and parking is easy. The name is derived from Saxon sources and means “village of Beorns people”.
The title of the walk has nothing to do with animals. The word here means a person who was an individual pedlar or trader licensed (badged) in the 17th Century to carry corn from an important market to sell at smaller markets or in the case of this walk to smaller communities. There are several tracks or lanes in the country where the name can be found and this walk involves one of them called Badger Way. A stoop is an old form of waymark which often involved a horizontal section and occurs in several place names such as Busby Stoop near Northallerton. They are normally found on moors and in particular the Pennines. They were erected in the early 18th Century following legislation and were the responsibility of Justices of the Peace. For further information on these and similar terms consult Ernest Hinchcliffe’s fine book published by Cicerone entitled “The Packhorse Bridges of England” from where this information was taken.
This walk shows itself well on the map and is good underfoot for most of its length. It is best done in late August or early September when the heather is in full bloom and smelling great and equally pick a fine clear day as the views are very good.
Head west through the village passing the old fountain and use the path on the right of the street. Further up it is separated from the road by gardens having gone through a gate. At the end of this section pick up the road and continue uphill past the end of the village and at a bend in the road to the right take the track heading straight ahead over the cattle grid. Now go through the gate in the wall on your left which is the access to Park House. Just before Park House is a lake with plenty of reeds where there are normally ducks to be seen. Go through the farm and before the last building turn right up the track and through a gate. Now head south-west alongside the wall and through a further metal gate. At a second gate go through to the other side of the wall. You may prefer the nearby stile which is fairly high. The OS map here indicates Gathaw Stoop but I have never been able to find it. Head alongside the wall on your right for about 300 yards and then head due south aiming for an old dilapidated railway waggon. A solitary swallow has nested here for several years making its annual return from Africa. Behind is a small plantation which has been planted by the Milbank Estate to provide habitat for black grouse. The wall on your left which you are following is the County Boundary with Yorkshire on the other side. Continue following the wall on a clear track for just over a mile on a steady but easy climb. It is incredible how extensive are the views for so little effort.
Barningham Moor has a tremendous amount of ancient hut circles, cup and ring stones and an early settlement. There is much on the web on these matters and additional information is easily found. After about a mile you come to a crossing of tracks which are waymarked. At this spot continue ahead for about 400 yards and the Badger Stone is on the wall on your left. It is triangular in cross section with one face onto the wall and on the other faces are the words Badger Stoop. It would be good to see this fine waymark slightly restored to make the writing more legible. Looking west from here there are distant views of Mickle Fell and Little Fell. The latter was walked recently on the one day of the year that there is access provided by the M.O.D and is a fine walk on Warcop Range. The walk is supervised by the Staff of the North Pennines AONB – keep an eye on their publications to see the date. On the day we did it there were several completers of the English 2000 ft hills. A further half mile on a fainter track brings you to the trig point on the top of How Tallon which is situated on what appears to be a tumulus. Continue alongside the wall avoiding several wet spots for about half a mile to the end of the wall passing some shooting butts to a t-junction of paths. Here turn left through the gate and enjoy the view to the south. The stream heading south is Arndale Springs which eventually joins the Swale near Marske. The track gradually turns north and just around Frankinshaw Well take the gate on your right. This is not waymarked but there is a faint grassy path heading east which joins the tarmac at GR 069067 .
Heading north on the tarmac you now have two choices. After about 400 yards you can take the footpath on the left passing Byers Hill Farm or continue on the road past the farm access road and after a further 100 yards take the bridleway on the left.The latter is my preferred route as it does not involve an up and down! Continue west on limestone grassland to reach the gate at GR 067078. You were at this spot on the way to the Badger Stoop earlier in the walk but now head a little to the left on a clear bridleway onto Barningham Moor. After half a mile this track heads north and for the first time on this walk there is no clear track. It is necessary to head west through heather and bracken and if you are on the right route you will find some concrete waymarks about a foot high. The problem is that they are very difficult to see ahead particularly when the vegetation has grown. Osmaril Gill ahead on your left is particularly good for ancient remains with a stone circle at its head (not passed on this walk). The plateau underneath was the site of a bronze age settlement which is still visible. Keep going west passing the gill and avoiding the bracken and at GR 049083 you will pick up a track coming from Stang Forest at Black Hill Gate. Look here for a large stone with cup and ring markings. Now head north-east along a further plateau. This is a sharp turn to the north and below you is a wall and you will soon pick up a clearish path which gradually descends to a point near to the corner of the wall. Further east is a new lake with an island which has recently been created and is not on all maps, You cross over a small stream marked on the map as aqueduct.
After a short rise you will see Haythwaite farm in front of you. Head either directly to the farm or follow the wall to reach a road (not tarmac) which leads to East Hope. It is now an easy two and a half miles along the farm access road passing by Haythwaite back along the quiet road to Barningham. The road is traffic free.
There are two extensions which can be added to the walk. The first adding one extra mile is to go down Gill Beck to the north by using the path wrongly marked on the map as a bridleway just to the west of where you join the Hope road but here there has been extensive planting and this route involves a river crossing near Hurst Hill and the bridleway (?) through the wood is clearly a footpath with stiles only for access. Nevertheless this wood is beautiful and hopefully more work can be carried out here to make this accessible. An easier extension of one mile is to leave the road at Bragg House and follow the track to Ladysmith Plantation and then Low Lane eventually coming into Barningham near to the pub and Barningham Hall which is the home of Lord Milbank. He is very active on bird protection and increasing habitat and a member of the RSPB Council. When you walk this area you will observe many sites where his work is evident and it certainly enhances the general area.
Distance: 13 miles
Map : OS Explorer 304 (Darlington and Richmond) and OS Explorer 305 (Bishop Auckland)
Start: Staindrop Village Green (GR NZ219383)
This walk was constructed following the successful West of Staindrop walk. Both walks return back into Staindrop from the south on totally different routes so there will not be a south of Staindrop walk. Neither will there be a north of Staindrop as the land all belongs to the grounds of the Raby Estate and have no public footpaths. This walk, along with the west walk, goes through pleasant rural countryside but is generally in softer terrain with the west section reaching towards the early Pennines. The land is mainly arable farmland with cereals and oil seed rape predominating. Nevertheless there are wide vistas particularly towards the hills behind Barningham and also on a decent day it is possible to see the length of the old drove road on the Cleveland Way. The fields have a regular pattern and date back to the enclosures.
Staindrop has a long history and is first mentioned in 1031. It is thought that the King Cnut of England, Denmark and Norway may have ruled his kingdom from a mansion near here and it is recorded that Staindrop was given to the monks of Durham from King Cnut’s estate in 1031. The name means ‘farmstead in the stoney place’ and today Staindrop is an interesting place. The ‘Keys to the Past’ historical site of Durham and Northumberland mentions no less than 171 historical sites in Staindrop. It is a long village with a well maintained equally long village green which in all the years l have passed through has changed little. This was favoured cycling country with quiet hedge-lined minor roads and a few of these lanes will be used on this walk.
The main influence on this village are those who inhabited Raby Castle just outside the village. There was a simple castle here in 1015 and the castle underwent massive development in the 14th Century to give the perfect castle shape that you see now. Much of the stone was recycled from Barnard Castle which was then being partly dismantled. The Nevilles, who owned the castle, lost it for their support of a losing cause in the Rising of the North in 1569 with the land passing into the hands of the Vane family. The church of St Mary was in effect the family church for Raby Castle and their owners tombs can be found in the churchyard with the Nevilles being in the south-west and the Vanes in the north-west. Also buried here is Jeremiah Dixon(1733-1779) of nearby Cockfield. He was a Quaker and buried in their graveyard but sadly the site is now a garden and the grave is unmarked. His name is famous in history as one of the two men who marked out the Mason Dixon Line as the boundary between Maryland and Pennsylvania. The USA was still a British colony in 1763 when Dixon (an astrologist) and Charles Mason (a surveyor) went to America to separate the land belonging to the Penns and the Calverts, given out by different monarchs. The line, on 39 degrees 43 minutes north, stretched for 306 miles and took 50 months to complete. In fact the last bit was added later due to hostile local tribes but the Mason-Dixon line is probably the second most famous line in the world after the equator! Dixon’s brother George (1731-1785) was also a man of substance and owned coal mines. He is thought to be the first person to use coal gas for illumination. Quite recently the Mason-Dixon Line was restored and the surveyors were amazed at how accurate it was, to within a few yards. Dixie as the name for the land south of the line has survived as a form of jazz.
St Mary’s has Saxon origins with a few stones still in use and over the years there were many modifications starting with the Normans who added the tower. The porch came in 1343 and the tower top in the 15th Century. Opposite the church is Staindrop House with its Jacobean windows but there is litttle informatiom available on this house.
It is worthwhile to spend time in the village but this walk is 13miles long and you may decide to leave the exploration for the end or a general saunter. Leave the main street about halfway along its length and head north down a side street. Within a minute you will arrive at a small stream called Langley Beck which is followed downstream, arriving at the road to Bishop Auckland next to the bridge. Cross carefully! Ahead is the Darlington road but it is better to take the lane heading off at a slight angle towards the river through the wood and then turn left through the cemetery back on to the Darlington road (B6279) and look out for the fingerpost at GR136208 on your left. The footpath, thanks to excellent work by the farmer and the Raby Estate, is easy to see as all the route through crops have been really well cleared. Near Low Keverstone at GR146220 there is a kink to the east at the edge of a field and you soon emerge on a lane next to Wackerfield Grange. Turn left and pass the first lane on the right and take the second past Wackerfield Hall which was built in 1840 and is a listed building. There is some thought that when Dickens wrote “Nicholas Nickleby” that the terrible school in the book was at Staindrop and the name of the schoolmaster was Wackford Squeers. I always thought that the school was in Bowes but perhaps someone can shed more light on this story?
Now head east to the Hilton road at spot height 158. Here cross by the gate and proceed in a north-east direction to Hilton Moor Farm where there is a riding school. The stile out is to the left of the security gate in a hedge. Turn left to the north and where the road turns sharp left take the byway marked Hummerbeck Lane. If you look on the map at the country you have just crossed you will see the faint dots to the north marked up as a Roman road and this is the road from Bowes (Lavatrae) to Binchester (Vinovia). The lane you are on overlies some of this road and the books state that this road met the other Roman road in the area from Piercebridge to Binchester near to Bildershaw GR202241. On the map this is hard to connect up with a straight line linking both to Hummerbeck Farm area. When you arrive at a wood called Bolton Plantation at GR173239 after less than a mile turn to the right and at the end of the plantation turn right again to pass in front of Bolton Garths Farm which has been well restored and appears to be holiday accommodation. Very nice. I believe there are plans to have a small holiday site here with log cabins. Just past the farm the enclosure mounds can be seen on your left.
Now head just east of south to Trunnelmire Plantation on a clear waymarked track down the side of the plantation. At the end of the trees continue south across the field or leave the right of way and go to the left to arrive on a track used by cycles. Do not go through the gate but turn back to the west and when you are level with the end of the wood look for the stile in the hedge on your left. Follow this footpath to West Leaside where you turn left in front of the farm and take the access road down a very quiet tarmac lane as it only serves this property. This soon arrives at a minor road which is crossed and the path continues in the same southerly direction over Hilton Whin and Killerby Beck to arrive at Ingleton.
This is another old village going back to at least 1050. Its name is undetermined and could be Ingleds farm or the farm of the English. This village is also visited on the Headlam Pack Horse Bridge walk from Gainford. Houses to the west of the village are dated 1627 and 1629. There is a pub here but this is not normally open during the day apart from weekends. We take the westerly waymarked path out of the village with charming corners and views of well kept gardens. When you get to a small stream there is no sign of the path ahead but in any case the local dog walkers turn downstrean along the edge of the field and pick up the access road to Pinder House . This is followed passing to the left of the house. If you see a strange looking pig in the field you are looking at a kunekune pig which hails from New Zealand. In the 1970s this breed had virtually disappeared and there were only 6 sows and 3 boars left in the world. In a story reminiscent of Sir Peter Scott and the Hawaian Goose or Nene they were carefully looked after and bred and now there are several thousand in the world!
There is a footpath at Langton which goes behind the farm heading west along a ridge with good views to both north and south to Langton Bank Wood and then crossing north-west to another wood at the far end of which are some ruins and a wall. This was a walled garden retreat on the Raby Estate many years ago. The right of way ends in the wood but it is hoped to be able to get special permission to be able to leave this wood and walk the short distance to the gamekeeper’s house where an estate road goes south to Selaby Lane. In no circumstance follow this route without the explicit approval of the estate management. The shooting season extends for both pheasant and roe deer whilst spring can also be difficult with breeding birds. See the note at the end for contact information.
If permission is not granted the minor road of Selaby Lane is followed for a mile and a half to the ford at Alwent Beck. This is an attractive spot with woodpecker (Great Spotted) regularly seen. A footpath leaves the road on the right here to rejoin the road a few hundred yards further on near a bend. Do not go to Alwent Mill. The road you have just walked is part of the W2W cycle route from Walney near Barrow to the Wear at Sunderland. At the B6274 turn left and watch out for the traffic on a bend. At the next bend where the road turns south and a minor one goes to Little Newsham head north over the stile near to the seat. The well waymarked path heads north to Alwent Farm where some beneficial planting of indigenous trees will enhance the landscape in a few years time. The only dificult spot is in the second field at the start where the stile is in the top left hand corner. At Alwent there is a choice of route at the stile after the farm. You can go straight ahead to walk along the main street or head north-west over a lovely meadow and pick up a lane which is followed into Staindrop past a childrens play area which at the time of the walk was sadly closed due to vandalism. Not an inspiring end to what is a fine walk through well maintained countryside.
Notes: The Raby Estate Office is at Office Square, Staindrop, Darlington, Co.Durham. Tel 01833 660207.
Distance: 12.5 miles which can be reduced to 11.5 miles by taking short cut through High Croxdale
Start: Bowburn Village
Bowburn on its own is an average County Durham village situated on the A177 close to Interchange 61 on the A1M. It is sat on what was the Durham coalfield but of more importance is the fact that above the coal measures are the big deposits of magnesium carbonate known as dolomitic limestone. This band of magnesium limestone stretches from South Shields (South Tyneside) where it is evident on the cliff face along the coast immediately south of the River Tyne and was quarried there at Marsden all the way to the Nottingham area. Much of the grassland of the magnesium limestone has disappeared and now only scattered remnants remain. The grassland that we pass today is rare, being found nowhere else in the world. Much of the grassland has, over recent years, been given protection through various means and is now conserved. In addition several areas such as worked-out quarries have been recovered to provide habitat to some of the rare flora that is found on this grassland such as Quaking Grass, Blue Moor Grass, Small Scabious, Fragrant Orchid and Harebell.
Several of the paths used on this walk are encountered on previous walks such as “Round the East Durham Reserves” and “Shincliffe and Tursdale Beck” which are to the east and west of Bowburn respectively but this is the first walk where we have joined them up. Further information on the importance of magnesium limestone can be found on the route descriptions of these walks but suffice to say that of the 307 hectares of magnesium limestone in the area no less than 279 hectares are protected as SSSIs.
We start at the Community Centre at Bowburn where a path behind the Library leads past some well tended allotments on your left and a new childrens park to reach a minor road running parallel to the A1M. This is followed north and the A1M crossed next to Cassop Grange. On crossing this bridge take the access track towards Heugh Hall Farm. You soon cross another major road, which if your map is not up to date, will not be shown. This is the Bowburn Bypass. Here you turn down under the bridge and take the broad track north alongside the road. Where the track terminates cross the road with great care and continue northwards to a point just before Cassop Moor. On the opposite side of the road is a footpath which is taken and this soon crosses a minor road and continues east to another minor road at Chapman Beck. The path then continues over the road towards Cassop Vale. After about 400 yards another path joins from your left which is used on the Round the Reserves walk.
You are now in Cassop Vale which is a fine area for birds. This was the site of Cassop Vale Colliery known as the Vale Pit and was the site of Cassop’s second coal mine sunk in 1840 and closed in 1868. The only evidence of this are the spoil tips which have been colonised by hawthorn and gorse. We often see fieldfare and redwing here in the winter feasting on the berries. After a further quarter of a mile you cross a bridleway which is on a north south axis. This comes down from Old Cassop. Cross this bridleway and continue east to reach Cassop Bogs which is an SSSI. The pond, which was formed by mining subsidence, can contain several common species of duck such as mallard, coot, teal and waterhen although I have yet to see water rail which are sometimes seen here. This was compensated for when a goshawk was seen here some years ago. The village ahead up the hill is Cassop (formerly New Cassop). The area of the bogs was the site of Cassop Colliery which operated from 1836 until 1878.
Do not go up to Cassop but head sharp right to head west through Big Wood which is a National Nature Reserve and is Ancient Woodland (ie. it was in existence prior to 1600). Big Wood is best in late spring when there is a good display of bluebells. Continuing west a short climb brings you out on to a road near to the Heather Lad Inn which has never changed in my lifetime. This pub is quite nostalgic for me as in the late 1950s my cycling club (Newcastle and Gateshead Clarion) held their hill climbing competitions on nearby Quarrington Hill. The pub has also featured on some films from Amber Films.
Walking towards Quarrington Hill you soon reach St Paul’s Churchyard on your right. This is a little different from most churchyards as it is managed for wildlife and over 70 species of wildflowers and grasses grow among the graves. This illustrates what this area would have looked like before the the onset of modern farming. St Paul’s was built in 1868 closed in 1991 before being demolished in 1993. There is an Information Board in the churchyard and this is a good place for lunch with distant views to the west over to West Durham and the Pennines. Beacon Hill with the mast on top to the east was a beacon in the Napoleonic Wars.
Here there is a choice or routes as you can maintain your height along the top of Cold Knuckles Quarry or preferably take the lower route through Crowtrees Local Nature Reserve managed by DCC. The old quarry face to the north is interesting and again this is a good area for birds with several species of finches to be seen as well as birds of prey with buzzards about and the occasional owl. The Information Board has details of the mining industry as here there were two mines. Heugh Hall Colliery near to Old Quarrington opened in 1840 and closed in 1897. This was once owned by William Hedley of Puffing Billy fame while Crowtrees Colliery in the valley was sunk in 1820 and also closed in the 1890s. Continue down to Coxhoe on good tracks to arrive on the A177 at GR 314369 near to the R of Roman Road on the map. This whole area has a lengthy story to tell on the early development of railways which, along with much more on this subject, can be read in the excellent book “Lost Railways of Durham and Teeside” by Robin Jones published by Countryside Books of Newbury. Cross the A177 and go through a small housing estate to reach an open area with football pitches etc.and go north-west along the back of the houses to cross the A1M and reach the A688 in a very short distance. Here take the path west past the sewage works and ignore the ‘footpath closed’ sign as there is no obstruction. You then cross the old Leamside Line which was originally the main line north to Newcastle and continue west . It is worth the diversion to Tursdale House which is historic. The farmhouse was formerly a coaching inn and the small building opposite was a blacksmith’s shop. Here you are on Strawberry Lane which will be joined later in the walk amd this was a major road going to Durham in the 17th Century.
Walk down the hill to the Tursdale Beck and Hett Mill. An option is to follow Tursdale Beck but the other route is also of interest. Cross the railway line which carries a lot of traffic as it is the main line and take a path immediately on your right which crosses four fields to come into Hett Village. This is one of the Durham villages with a big village green. There are several others nearby notably Tudhoe and Shadforth. Take the Sunderland Bridge road for a short distance and turn right descending through a field with fine views to the north and recross the railway by a footbridge. Follow the path down to cross Tursdale Beck again and head alongside a wood and past small ponds in the Croxdale Estate northwards. On reaching the bridleway linking Croxdale Hall to High Croxdale there is a short cut back to Bowburn which goes straight east past High Croxdale and saves a mile. For an slightly longer walk (and an easy one too) head north with a very small narrow wood on your right (almost a hedge) to reach the Weardale Way at GR 277381 in the north-west corner of the field. Here turn right and pass Croxdale Wood House and High Butterby Farm. At this farm the Weardale Way descends down a muddy track but do not take it. Continue on the broad track by turning right at the farm and after about 400 yards you arrive at Strawberry Lane. Head south on a good path passing by Pigeon Plantation to arrive at a wood where you meet the path from High Croxdale and it is then a lovely path that you now take winding through the trees to the east. After just under half a mile you cross the old Leamside railway line again and continue on a broad track east with a wood on your right to arrive back in Bowburn directly opposite the Community Centre where you started.
Much of the information given on this walk was taken from the DCC booklet “Of Wooded Vales and Limestone Hills” which l recommend you acquire, whilst much additional information can be got from the Limestone Landscapes Project c/o DCC County Hall DH15UQ. Thanks also to Sheila Pinkney of the DVCRS who suggested the walk.
Distance: Low Route 9.5 miles / High Route 10 miles / Long Route 15 miles
Start: Demense Mill, Wolsingham (NZ GR 076375)
There are three variations on this walk which give the choice of a longer walk and also a return to Wolsingham via the Weardale Way (which is a low riverside route) or a higher route which utilises the old Weardale Way, before descending to Wolsingham.
The Weardale Way is a 77 mile walk from Roker in Sunderland at the mouth of the River Wear to near its source. The reason for this exactitude is that over the years there have been three walks following the Wear. The first two of these by Alan Earnshaw and Ken Piggin both ended (or started depending on which way you wanted to walk it) at Killhope Wheel which was just being developed at the time by Durham County Council. The former was produced on a simple sheet by Alan and l have a copy of this which will eventually go on to my blog, whilst Ken’s book is out of print but can be found in second hand bookshops. A later the route was then written by Alistair Wallace and supported by Durham County Council. In this book the author altered the previous routes by keeping the walk in closer proximity to the riverside. This is of particular importance in the section between the A68 and Stanhope when the original route went over Knitsley Fell and passed the “elephant trees”, whereas the current route follows the riverside. Both routes to Wolsingham are given in this walk description. For a considerable time there were waymarks on both routes and personally I feel that both routes should be waymarked as a high route and low route. The precedent for this is the Offas Dyke National Trail with the Castles Alternative. The current finish (or start) of the Wearda;e Way is at Wearhead where the Burnhope Burn and the Killhope Burn merge to form the River Wear. For the record I prefer to walk down the dale but starting from Killhope which is a place of high impact.
This walk starts at Demesne Mill Car Park. This is a very attractive corner of Wolsingham and there are records of expenditure on a watermill here going back to 1307. The mill also appears on Hatfields Survey of 1370. Wolsingham is a really good small market town with many interesting buildings and is well worth a detailed amble. Some years ago Durham County Council produced an excellent leaflet called “Walk About Wolsingham” and it would be good to see the series resurrected.
Today we leave Wolsingham straight away and head east to the road to enter Upper Town where at the corner of a minor road to the northeast there is a footpath which crosses the fields to Redgate Hall and then onto the B6296. It is then uphill for about 300 yards to reach a footpathat GR 089381 which leads to Greenwell Farm about a mile to the east. Note on the map the sign for a cross which can be found on the other side of the road. TAKE GREAT CARE HERE AS THE ROAD IS ON A BEND AND THE TRAFFIC IS MOVING FAST. The cross was erected in memory of the RC priest the Venerable John Duckett who was born in Sedbergh in 1603 and died on Sept 7th 1644. Tradition has it that here on July 2nd 1644 he was arrested after the baptism of two children nearby. He was taken to Sunderland and then to Newgate Prison and subsequently hanged at Tyburn because of his religion.
The route to Greenwell is on a terrace with fine views south over Weardale. Greenwell is an ancient site of habitation and is mentioned in the Boldon Book (a North East equivalent of the Doomsday Book) in 1183. Follow the footpath south of the farm eastwards to reach a minor road at spot height 164 and follow this road to Thornley village. Thornley is one of only two villages in Co. Durham where there is no through road. As a matter of interest the other one is Escomb with its famous Saxon church and this is also on the Weardale Way. Again this area has been lived in for hundreds of years and Pevsner states that there was a medieval village here, although half of the earthworks are now under Thornley Hall. The earliest houses now go back to circa 1700 and in the 1800s the village boasted a pub called the California Arms. This was run by Thomas Carrick who is buried in the village churchyard. Try to visit Thornley in spring when there is a fine display of snowdrops, daffodils and other spring flowers.
The route now continues east into and across the wooded Thornley Beck. It is interesting to observe here that to the west of Wolsingham all of the smaller streams are ‘hope’ and ‘burns’, which is Anglo Saxon for a side valley, whereas those to the east are ‘becks’ which is a Norse word and this clearly illustrates the pattern of settlement in the past. We now walk past Castlewood House to arrive at a broad track named the Coal Road as it was used to take coal from Helme Park pit to the north down to the valley bottom. The name Helme Park survived in the name of the nearby Country Park Hotel.
At this point those wishing for the longer walk should head uphill to the A68, follow Roddy Moor Road past High Cold Knot and Mown Meadows Road to Cold Knot on the A689 just outside Crook. Here head south on the footpath through Green Head and then Gibbet Hills to Douglas Lane where you turn west to the A68. Over the road is access to the Weardale Way which is followed west for two miles past Wadley and Hamsterley Hall (which is from the 16th and 17th Century and almost certainly built on the site of a previous building) to Low Harperley which is also an antiquarian site at GR120349. Here you join the two shorter routes.
The other two routes go gown the Coal Road to the A689 which is crossed and the track followed to Low Harperley on the Weardale Way. The low route on the Weardale Way is followed west to Eels Bridge and Old Park to Bradley Hall. This fine building was given a licence to crenellate by Bishop Langley in 1431 and the four tunnel vaulted chambers in the south range date back to the 15th Century. The east range was developed in Georgian times to a more modern dwelling and the moat which surrounds the house is still evident.
The Weardale Way now crosses the A689 (for a third time) by Bradley Burn Bridge which is late 18th Century and like most of the buildings hereabouts is made of sandstone. It is a listed structure. The Weardale Way is now followed back to Wolsingham and depending on the time of year many birds can be observed. Watch the river for goosander or dippers and on previous visits here both buzzard and peregrine have been seen.
The high route leaves Low Harperley by the site of Harperley Railway Station. This was a busy station during WW2 when many Italian and German POWs embarked from here to the camps in the district. The River Wear is crossed by the footbridge, then go uphill to Bracken Hill. Here head west through Shipley Moss and on to Knitsley Fell. We then follow Howlea Lane for about a mile to its junction with a bigger road from Hamsterley at GR082353. At this junction there is a footpath heading north and downhill past Wigside (which is now uninhabited) and continue downhill to cross the railway line and arrive at Wolsingham Station. Do not cross to Friarside and High Wiserley on leaving Wigside. The land towards the river is known as The Batts and this was the area where archery practice was carried out in the past. Take the time to go along the platform at the station as it is a beauty, going back to the early days of railways (1847). All that is left now is to cross the River Wear and make your way back to the start. The way past the church is the best unless you want a coffee or a beer in Wolsingham.
Distance: 12 miles
Start: Hanging Shaw Car Park (GR NY867298)
This walk covers what is an outstanding area with attractive views both distant and nearby and also has the benefit of part of it being on some of the best sections of the Pennine Way. Surely there are few better parts of England than this.
The walk starts at Hanging Shaw car park. Shaw is an old word meaning wood and can be found in many place names throughout the country. Locally we have Penshaw which is celtic for the wood on the hill. Hanging Shaw is presumably for a wood hanging on the hill and the farm with that name is found a little to the north of the car park. The forest in question in the name of the area goes back to the Baliol family of Barnard Castle and Raby Castle heritage, when the area was wooded and also l believe used for hunting.
Upper Teesdale in the 1800s was a predominately lead mining area but the area where we are starting has a very long history of human habitation even though the terrain is over 1000ft (300m) and neolithic axes have been found hereabouts. To the north up the side of the valley can be seen High Hurth Edge passed on my Chapel Fell and Fendrith Hill walk on the Durham 2000 ft hills. Excavations here show the site was occupied circa 6000 years ago by a hunter gatherer population and the site was further occupied 3000 years ago. There are extensive caves here where the people lived and these were known in times past as the Fairy Hole. The excavations, which were done in the the late 18th Century, revealed over 30 animal species including both wolf and lynx and also the bones of an iron age woman.
Leave the car park and head west towards Langdon Beck for about 100 yards and take the drive to the farm on your left. The hill on the other side of the Tees is Cronkley Scar which is crossed on the Sweeter Side of Teesdale walk where the famous and special Teesdale plants, such as Teesdale gentians living on the sugar limestone, are found and protected. Pass to the left of the farm to go to Wat Garth farm and join the Tees at Cronkley Farm bridge which gives access to the farm. Here we join the Pennine Way. It will be noted that the Pennine Way from Middleton in Teesdale to Alston wiggles about for these two lengthy sections and the reason for this is to visit some of the outstanding locations in the area. These include Low Force and High Force which Wainwright was quite rightly enthusiastic about but the aims of Tom Stephenson (who originated the Pennine Way) were very wide and included all of Upper Teesdale including Cauldron Snout (now partly emasculated by the construction of Cow Green Reservoir), the loneliness of Birkdale and the surprise view of High Cup Nick and the summit of Cross Fell which is the highest point in the whole of the Pennines and has a superb view over the Eden Valley to the Lake District. The Pennine Way Association website has a photograph of Tom Stephenson with many prominent politicians surveying the route at Birkdale farm.
We now head south-east uphill on the track to Cronkley passing the farm on the diversion to the right and continue upwards to Bracken Rigg on the path winding up through High Crag. From now to Holwick Head bridge after High Force we are walking on flagstones rescued from disused mills in Yorkshire and Lancashire which are necessary to prevent further erosion due to the heavy use of the path here from day walkers as well as Pennine Way walkers. After reaching the top the Pennine Way gently descends eastwards towards High Force and returns to the river where we enter the Teesdale National Nature Reserve and its masses of juniper which is managed by Natural England. Keep an eye out here for ring ouzels which are not common and look like a blackbird with a white chest. The section of the Pennine Way from Langdon Beck to Cauldron Snout is even better to see them. This section is also good for oystercatchers and redshank with the occasional common sandpiper.
Regrettably there is now a major problem in this reserve concerning the juniper. This is a relatively rare tree occurring in a limited number of places and this is the largest juniper wood in England. Juniper is one of only three conifers native to the UK (the other two being yew and scots pine) and this is the main reason for the reserve. In the past the charcoal made from juniper was of a very high quality and much used in the gunpowder industry, whilst the berries are still used to add the flavour to gin. They are also an enhancement to venison and beef casseroles. In 2011/2012 it was noted that some of the junipers were diseased and comprehensive investigation revealed that they were suffering from a disease known as phytophthora austrocedrae which is a fungus which attacks the plant through its root system. This was a new disease in the UK and is only known in Patagonia and Chile where it attacks the Chilean Cedar and has been prevalent there for about 50 years. The first part of its name translates to ‘plant destroyer’ whilst the second part concerns its location and the fact that it also attacks the Lawsons cypress which is found in domestic gardens. The source of the disease is still as yet unknown and in an effort to prevent its spread at points of access to the reserve there are brushes and disinfectant to thoroughly clean your boots. PLEASE USE THIS FACILITY AT ALL TIMES.
On your left there is a large whinstone quarry which is the rock that gives us the many features in Teesdale and other parts of Northumbria such as Hadrians Wall and the Farne Islands and of course High Force, but the view on the opposite side is where to look as Bleabeck Force comes tumbling down to the Tees over a succession of small waterfalls. Like most waterfalls it is best after wet weather.
You can hear High Force before you reach it. This is the biggest waterfall in the country. It is not the highest but the amount of water cascading through a relatively small gap in the face and falling a distance of 69ft accounts for the noise. Occasionally there are two falls with an adjacent one further along the edge and before Cow Green was built it was possible to see the whole cliff face with a continuous fall across its whole length. The waterfall exists because of the hardness of the whinstone (as with Low Force) being difficult to erode but the whinstone overlies a band of softer shale which is eroded. Eventually this causes the whinstone to be undercut and the whinstone collapses. Over thousands of years this has created the super gorge leading down from the fall. This area is famous for flora with globe flower being abundant for several miles down river.
We leave the reserve by a gate with boot cleaning equipment next to a sculpture of sheep and the Pennine Way descends down to Holwick Head Bridge. However, we quit the Pennine Way here. The bridge is crossed over the Tees and the route is taken uphill to the main road. For those wanting refreshments there is an alternative path at the end of the bridge to the High Force Hotel and then it is necessary to walk down the main road to the track leading to Holwick Head Bridge. At the top of the track is a stile (quite high) where the footpath is taken and a field crossed to the minor road to Ettersgill at White Friar House. There is now a bit of quiet road walking and just before Dirt Pot there is a footpath on the left. Note the magnificent row of mature trees. This track was the old road up Teesdale. We do not go up it but continue up the Ettersgill road and divert to Dirt Pit to have a closer look at Ettersgill Beck with its steep sides.
At GR884295 just before a sharp right hand bend take the footpath on the left which heads south-west and after crossing a stile you emerge on the old road which here is a track which later changes to a tarmac surface. This passes the unused Ebeneezer Chapel built in 1880 and where the road turns sharp left to join the B6277 continue straight ahead round the back of a house. This track follows a wall past Dale cottage to The Dale and passes through a walled lane (with nettles!) to Forest in Teesdale School. This is still in use as a school which makes a pleasant change! The path passes above Langdon Beck Youth Hostel much used by Pennine Way walkers. This was a purpose built Youth Hostel and replaced an earlier one which was burnt down. Here change direction slightly to a north-west direction to cross a stile and them make for West Underhurth Farm via another stile. Pass through the farm, turn left, and then take the footpath alongside a wall to Brown Hill. Continue in the same direction and you are then looking down on the Langdon Beck Hotel built in 1887 to replace an earlier one. Normally good ales are served here. On your left is the church of St James the Less dating fron 1845.
This footpath comes down to the B6277 just short of the bridge over the Langdon Beck which carries a fair amount of water. Cross the bridge and take the path to Valence Lodge alongside the beck, which has an attractive waterfall and on arriving at the lodge head north-west to Old Folds and reach the B6277. This can be a good area for black grouse but you have to be there early to see them. Turn left back to the hotel and then follow the road towards Cow Green alongside the Langdon Beck. There is a bend in the road opposite Intake Farm at the confluence of Langdon Beck and Harwood Beck. The latter is much bigger and it is sometimes possible to cross the ford to Intake Farm. Otherwise continue on the road for a further 150 yards and cross the Harwood beck on the road bridge. Immediately there is a fine footpath down the side of the beck back to Intake Farm. Here the footpath continues from the end of the ford and not through the farmyard, and follows Harwood Beck down to Saur Hill Bridge where the Pennine Way is joined. The bridge is crossed and the Pennine Way followed alongside the beck. This section can be flooded if there has been a lot of rain.
After about half a mile you reach the confluence of the Harwood Beck and the River Tees and it will be observed that the Harwood Beck is about the same size as the Tees. The Pennine Way shortly reaches Cronkley Bridge, crossed earlier in the walk, and now head left back towards the B6277 on the Cronkley access track. On reaching the road turn right for a few yards and then left up to Dale Cottage, also passed earlier. Here it is now back to the Forest School and then down to the start at Hanging Shaw.