St Oswald’s Way, A Bastle and a Walk in the Wannies
Filed under: OtherDistance: 14 miles
Map: Explorer OL42 Kielder Water and Forest
Start: Great Bavington GR NY 984803
Click to View Start Position on Google Maps
This walk is a good one to embark upon if there has been a prolonged spell of wet weather and you are longing to have your feet upon firm ground as much of it is on firm tracks and paths with some road walking on very minor roads where you are unlikely to encounter any traffic whatsoever. Whilst it includes a section of the St Oswald’s Way, in line with my policy of not putting any walks on the site which are long distance walks as there are guide books available, this walk is a circular route and indeed also includes a short section of the Reiver’s Way where again there is a Guide Book. What both walks have in common is that they both traverse fine sections of the beautiful and generally quiet Northumbrian countryside.
This walk starts in the hamlet of Great Bavington which is a few miles west of Kirkwhelpington just off the A696. This is an interesting spot and before you leave have a look at the church. This is signposted and is directly behind the houses. This is one of the oldest non conformist churches in the country. It came about when the vicar of Kirkharle was ejected from the church because he could not agree with the Act of Uniformity. He set up a church at nearby Ladywell and in the 1690s moved to Great Bavington and this is probably the reason that there is a footpath linking Ladywell to Great Bavington. It is now the oldest Presbyterian church in Northumberland and second oldest in England. Note the road here which is on solid rock. The second house you pass on the left on the way to the church served as a youth hostel in the early 1950s but the information board in the hamlet records that it was closed due to the unseemly behaviour of the visitors!
Great Bavington Presbytarian Church
The walk starts by taking the track which leaves the road to Bellingham just to the north of the houses and heads virtually due north passing a small old quarry and crossing a minor stream to a point west of West Harle at a corner of a wall. The route has the St Oswald’s Way crossing a wall where there is no stile and the wall is now damaged whereas the track we have been following also heads east on a firm track and both routes merge shortly afterwards before the farm. Strange! Continue through a gate into the farm and pass the farmhouse to the left to arrive at the farm access road. West Harle has some age and was partly fortified, I believe, due to the continuous troubles in the border region. Continue heading north to a right-angle bend to the right. The route stays on the road for a further half mile to a gate at Sheepwash where it then heads north-west on a clear waymarked track. At the first bend after West Harle there is a footpath heading north-east which looks like a short cut but passes over what can be a wet section. The two routes cross before the access road to Three Farms and it is easier here to cut off the corner to a right-angle bend in the road next to a spring.
Here the St Oswald’s Way follows the road down to the A696 but it is better to follow the footpath already mentioned heading north-east to the north-east corner of the field and over a stile. Here continue in the same direction to reach the A696 via a stile. There is a waymark in the middle of this field to keep you right but there is very little difficulty here. Cross the A696 to enter Kirkwhelpington, the road crossing a bridge over the infant River Wansbeck. This is a peaceful village which has limited traffic and a church (St Bartholomews) dating back to the 13th Century. Walk through the village and before getting back to the main road take what is an old tree lined track north running parallel to the A696. This joins the road at a kissing gate and leaves it immediately via another kissing gate to climb uphill to West Whitehill. Pass to the right of the house and follow the access road north to the road where you turn left. At the site of the old Knowesgate railway station (where there are a few houses) we leave the St Oswald’s Way which heads off towards Rothbury and continue to Knowesgate where the A696 is crossed.
River Wansbeck at Kirkwhelpington
The much loved Wannie Line which was part of the North British Group went from Morpeth to Redesmouth where it joined the line from Hexham to Hawick. There are DVDs of this route and its history available. Briefly it was opened in 1862 by the Wansbeck Railway Company and partly sponsored by Earl Grey, Lord Trevelyan and the Ridley family before being absorbed by the North British Company which was amalgamated with the LNER in the grouping of 1923. The last passengers were carried in 1952 and freight ceased in 1966. The roads in the region were not tarred until the 1920s and for a period of nearly sixty years it served as a vital link in the area transporting lime and iron ore for Lord Armstrong’s works at Elswick, and various quarry products from quarries near the route.
Heading west we pass Herpath House noting traces of the line to the north, descend to cross the Ray Burn and start climbing past Gooses Nest. There are two routes here heading north. The first over a stile contours west for a short distance before crossing the Ray Burn via a bridge and climbs up to join the access road to Ray Mill. However it is easier to stay on the road for a short distance and use the access road to get to Ray Mill which is also a right of way. Go downhill behind Ray Mill on a path to join an old track and cross the Ray Burn by a concrete bridge. Once crossed follow the old track uphill to a stile which is crossed and head over pasture to Blackhalls which is a large collection of farm buildings. Here you are on tarmac and the road is followed round over the railway track to Ray Cottages and Demense.
Crossing the Ray Burn
This area has been inhabited from ancient times and you will note the ancient crumbling bastle on your right. Here were also medieval fish ponds which were used to supply the nearby population with fish. There are many settlements here going back to Romano-British times and aerial photos highlight these. Once you are aware of these you can detect them on passing by especially if you note their locations on your map. The major one is West Whelpington which is just south of Herpath House passed earlier on the road. This was partly destroyed due to quarrying activity in the earlier part of the 20th century. Also at Ray Cottages coal was mined in the 19th century although traces of this are sparse.
Pass behind the last house (the Demense) and through a wood to enter open country through a gate. For the next mile and a half you are walking on a superb turf track. Examination reveals that this was formerly a paved route which has became overlaid and this area over heather moorland is very fine with distant views all round. The path ascends to 293 metres at Ray Fell and Gowk Fell where it then enters forestry commission land still on a good track. After a few hundred metres you arrive at a cross roads of paths and here you are the route of the Reivers Way. Looking north you will see the farm of Wishaw and there are good views down to the valley of the Rede. Turn left and head south on the Reivers Way passing a quarry on you left. This is marked up as disused on my map but has seen some recent activity. A short distance after this look for a waymark on you left down a ride where a faint path is followed south-east to exit the forest at a stile.
Cairn on Ray Fell
The faint path continues south-east towards two hillocks. Aim for the one on the right as it is the site of a homestead where there are pronounced remains. Continue ahead towards the Wannie Line (here in a good condition) and go under a bridge to cross a small burn which is the Ray Burn crossed earlier in the walk. It is a great pity that the Northumberland County Councillors showed little imagination in earlier times in not converting some of these old railways into bridleways as exemplified by other Local Authorities such as nearby Durham and also Derbyshire councils. These are now great community assets. Think what a route from Morpeth to Kielder would have brought not only to the locals and the local economy but also to the area as a whole. You reach the Woodburn road at GR 952841 and here you have a choice – either turn left towards Ferneyrigg and then take the road on the right which leads to Sweethope Lough to GR 954834 at a road junction to Hawick Farm or alternatively cross the road and head due south across moorland on open access to GR 954834. It is interesting to see that the footpath we have been following up to the Woodburn road disappears here but reappears at the Hawick Farm road junction and begs the question “why does it have a break in the middle?”
Head south on the bridleway to Hawick Farm passing Hawick Woods and then on a new section of track continuing south to GR 951820 where there is a crossing of paths. The one on the west leads past Sweethope Lough which offers fine brown and rainbow trout fishing. Here we leave the Reivers Way and head east passing a new windmill to Sweethope Farm. Go through the farm yard, noting the water pump in the garden, and then go on the access road through open country with Sweethope Crags prominent on your right towards Plashetts Farm, where you might see their peacocks. Before that, you pass another homestead and earthworks where the road you are walking on seems to bisect the settlement. Turn left at Plashetts for a short distance and then right on the minor road back to Great Bavington. with Bavington Crags on your right and further earthworks on your left before arriving back at Bavington.
Sanctuary Way Stage 4 – Witton Gilbert to Durham Cathedral
Filed under: Sanctuary WayDistance – 12.5 miles
Start – Road leading to St Michael anbd All Angels Church in Witton Gilbert. GR NZ 235453
OS Map – Explorer 308 / Durham & Sunderland
The Sanctuary Way is a walk devised by Bill Gallon from the knocker of the door of the church in the village of Whickham to the Sanctuary Knocker of Durham Cathedral. It is done as a series of 4 circular walks of approximately 12 miles each, or can be done as a continuous walk of approximately 22 miles.
The Sanctuary Knocker is on the north door of Durham Cathedral which was a place of sanctuary. Fugitives from the law wishing to claim protection used the knocker to attract attention of the two watchmen who were in a chamber over the door. Then admitted they were given sanctuary for 37 days during which time they had to choose between trial or exile. If the latter, they were escorted to a port, normally Hartlepool, wearing a St Cuthbert’s badge stitched to their shoulder and they also carried a wooden cross. Once at the port they had to embark on the next ship leaving the country regardless of its destination.
The start of the stage is at St Michaels Church Witton Gilbert. The village has a long history going back to Saxon days when it was known as Witun (White town). Following the Norman invasion in 1066 the land became Norman owned under Gilbert de la Ley. He was a benefactor to the area and some of his charters are preserved in Durham library. Some time later the land came under the ownership of Gilbert de la Latone who followed the example set by the first Gilbert and was the Gilbert thought to have given his name to the village.
Gilbert de la Ley lived at Witton from 1120 — 1180 and as well as funding the rebuilding of Kepier Hospital, he also gave land to the monks at Durham Cathedral for a retreat which was called Beaurepaire. During the walk, over the River Browney, you turn left to follow the farm road to Bear Park farm. Bear Park is an anglicization of Beaurepaire. It is well worth the short steep climb up the bank to the retreat, which has seen substantial improvement recently.
St Michaels Church in Witton Gilbert was built around 1170 and retains Norman features. The chancel arch is similar to the Galilee Chapel at Durham and there are two Norman windows in the South wall. The tower was used as a watchtower and the bells were rung if danger threatened. There are slits in the tower from where arrows could be fired. The bells bear the inscription ‘Christopher Hodgson made me 1693’. The oldest grave is 20 years earlier 1673.
Next door to the church is a farm which incorporates Witton Hall although much has been altered. At one time it was a leper hospital and housed eight lepers. The hospital was known as St Mary Magdalene and was in a similar fashion to Sherburn. The lepers, for the time, were well looked after. They each received a bushel of wheat every three weeks, got 4/- at Christmas (20p) which was equivalent to about 35 days work. They were also given 200 red herrings, coal and oxen as well as having their own chapel south of the church. Traces of this could be seen quite recently.
The Route
The walk follows the Dene Burn to its confluence with the River Browney down its east bank to Bearpark (GR 243439) and for the first half can be wet underfoot. Bearpark was sacked several times by the Scots, particula in 1315 following Bannockburn an also in 1346 before the battle of Nevilles Cross. Full details can be found on www.wittongilbert.com
On reaching the bridge you turn left to follow the farm road to Bearpark Farm. Bearpark is an anglicization of Beaurepaire which was a retreat for the monks at Durham Cathedral and is well worth the short steep climb up to the bank to look at the remains. The route follows the bridleway past Bearpark Hall Farm and Stotgate Farm which has considerable antiquity. It is believed that the Scots killed at the battle were buried near here but the exact location has never been found. At Moorley Banks (GR 251434) where the track turns to the right slightly downhill, turn east along Club Lane to the A167. Proceed south for a short distance (200m) to the edge of the school and cross to the east side. Follow the path round the perimeter of the school field and down into Flass Vale. There are several routes through Flass Vale but all emerge at Waddington Street.
View of Durham from Flass Vale
Flass Vale is very important as it is an excellent oak wood. In Victorian times it held a formal garden and a curling pond. There are also beech and holly in this wood and it is possible to see jays, great spotted woodpeckers and tawny owls as well as all the normal garden birds. Turn south (right) along the east side of Flass Vale along a narrow path with terraced streets on your left. The path climbs stairs past the site of one of the original wells before water was supplied by pipes. You then come to the Durham Miners Hall. The first Miners Hall was on North Road in 1874 but moved to this site in 1915. The statues are of McDonald, Patterson, Crawford (who initialled the Miners’ Gala in 1874) and Forman. They were previously on North Road and after the move stayed there above the original hall which had convened to a cinema.
Durham Miner’s Hall
Statues on the original Durham Miner’s Hall
Proceed up Redhills and pass through a tunnel under the railway to Mistletoe Road and down to Hawthorn Terrace. The building on the far side was formerly the business of Harrison and Harrison. Harrison and Harrison were founded in 1861 in Rochdale before moving to Durham in 1872. They made the organs at Kings College Cambridge, Westminster Abbey and the Royal Festival Hall as well as carrying out rebuilds on 19 cathedral organs in the UK. They moved a few years ago to Meadowfield near Durham and are world famous.
Now head south (right) up Hawthorn Tecrace to May Street. Note the bottom house which shows that these houses were built in 1887 which was the Jubilee year and there is a bust of Victoria above the house. At the top of the street turn left to the next street and proceed uphill to the top, passing Farnley Tower on your right.
At Crossgate turn right towards the A167. On the right is the Neville’s Cross, erected by Ralph Neville to commemorate his victory. A full tour of this site is one of the other guided walks run by Durham County Council. Turn around and retrace your steps and staying on the north side follow a path down towards the city with the hedge on your right. After 100m, follow the steps down to the road and cross to Blind Lane. Take the steps up to Beech Crescent. The house at the bottom was the house of Peter Lee, although this is not indicated on the house. Peter Lee (1864 — 1935) rose from humble beginnings to be elected to Durham County Council which was the first Labour council in England. He subsequently became Chairman of the Council, was a lay preacher and was Secretary of the Durham Miners Association. He is perpetuated in having his name given to the new town of Peterlee.
Sanctuary Knocker of Durham Cathedral
The route continues through the allotments, after passing some modern housing with fine views of the Cathedral, and down to Prebends Bridge (built 1772 – 1777) and up to Durham Cathedral to the Sanctuary Knocker. Go through the North Bailey and to South Bailey and back to Prebends Bridge. Turn left and then cross the road on the marked footpath. Continue west on the footpath to the University of Durham Observatory. The Observatory was established in 1839 by WM Wharton and with the renowned Anthony Salvin as Architect. It housed a superb library which was transferred to the University library in 1953. During its existence it has performed many observations which have led to further knowledge of the universe.
Bridge Spanning River Browney on Lanchester Railway Path
Follow the footpath through the new Barratt development, passing at GR NZ256 416, the site of the former college to emerge onto the A167. Cross to go through to the A690 via Lowe Barn Estate. This area was the site of a Roman road now lost. On reaching the A690 cross with care and go behind a terrace of houses to a back lane with allotments on your left. Go uphill to GR 261418 where you turn left through the allotments for a short distance and then down a field to cross the River Browney by a footbridge to reach Relly Mill which is a small settlement of considerable age. Follow the west bank of the River Browney to the bridge and turn left (south) past Baxter Wood to the Lanchester Railway walk. This Railway was opened to carry from Langley Park and serve the valley. It was opened in 1862 and closed 1965. In its passage up the Browney Valley, it goes through attractive countryside. The area has a substantial number of threatened skylarks, some peewit (becoming scarce) and sand martins.
The railway walk is is now followed back to the start leaving the line at GR NZ 233445 to cross a footbridge. The path leads past the sewage works to the church at Witton Gilbert.
Romaldkirk and the Reservoirs
Filed under: OtherDistance: 13 Miles
Start: Village Green, Romaldkirk, DL12 9EE (GR NY994220). Park with consideration in the village.
Map: Explorer OL31 North Pennines – Teesdale & Weardale
Click to View Start Position of Google Maps
Today’s walk starts in the very attractive village of Romaldkirk which has three village greens. The low green where we are starting contains one of the village pumps and it is interesting to note that despite the proximity of the reservoirs which we will visit later, that the village did not get piped water until 1934. This was nearly 50 years after Hury and Blackton were constructed. The middle green was at one time cobbles and had stock pens as there were fairs held here in the 1800s and early 1900s but these were stopped due to the excessive drinking at them. Things do not change much over the years when human behaviour is concerned!
Romaldkirk has always been an agricultural village and did not have such direct contact with the Teesdale Quarries although the character of the village changed when the railway line opened and brought with it commuters who worked in Darlington etc. In the early 1950s there was an active railway station, a Post Office and a busy village school and earlier still there once was four pubs plus a brewery. Now only two remain and besides these are the old village stocks which no doubt subdued some of the drunkards at the old fair on the middle green.
Romaldkirk Village
The parish church is dedicated to St Romald and has been known as the Cathedral of the Dales although I believe the church at Grinton in Swaledale has better fame in this respect. Nevertheless quoting WT Palmer in his “Wandering in the Pennines” published in 1951, “St Romalds is the only church bearing the name of Romald and nothing is known concerning the saint. The frescoes on the column in the nave suggest St Romuald of Ravenna (c956) and his famous visit to Venice and that could have been in the minds of the builders of the church but there was also a Saxon St Rumald or Rumwald of Northumbria and it is more likely that he was the one commemorated”.
The current structure belongs to the 12th Century and was refounded after this part of Teesdale recovered from the Conqueror’s ruthless expedition to subdue the north. Indeed in the Doomsday book the place is referred to as “waste”. I will leave it to yourselves to visit the church at your leisure.
We leave the village on the Hunderthwaite road (Hunderthwaite was a viking settlement meaning Low Meadows of Hundrethr, a Viking name and soon reach the old railway now converted to a walk by Durham County Council. This was originally opened as the Tees Valley Railway in 1868 and was nearly 9 miles long from Barnard Castle to Middleton. The two original structures of Lunedale and Baldersdale viaducts still stand and are used on the walkway. In 1957 the engine shed at Middleton was closed when the K1’s were replaced by diesel DMU’s and the line finally closed in 1964. In its heyday there were seven passenger trains daily as well as regular freight carrying quarry products from the quarries at Middleton.
We now take the track to West End Farm (at GR 987200) situated above the River Balder. To the north-west at Gill Field was a small coal mine in the early part of the 1900s and we continue west to Strathmore Arms which as the name suggests was at one time a pub. In the 1890 register the owner is registered as a victuallar and farmer. We proceed west on footpaths past Scoon Bank above and to the south of Hury Reservoir which was built in 1894 and covers 50 hectares. It is the best of the local reservoirs to observe birdlife and is well stocked with rainbow trout. It is a common misconception that Canada Geese have only been in the UK in latter years but records show five pairs nesting here in 1945.
Hury Reservoir
We continue west to reach Blackton Reservoir which was built in 1896 and is shallower than Hury, before picking up the Bowes Alternative Section of the Pennine Way to arrive at Blackton Bridge. This marks the half way point of the Pennine Way on its route from Edale to Kirk Yetholm. Above us looms the dam of Balderhead Reservoir which was built in 1965 and covers 111 hectares. The earth dam when it was built was the largest in the country being 303 feet long and 157 feet high, holding back 4 million gallons of water. It is not widely known but the dam leaked for a period after its construction and additional work was required after its completion. A prize for the first person to metricate these figures!
Blackton Bridge
We turn to head east along the north side of Blackton passing Birk Hat which was formerly the home of Hannah Hauxwell. The field to the north is known as Hannah’s Meadow and is managed by Durham Wildlife Trust as a flower rich unimproved meadow. For the botanists, meadow foxtail, crested dogs tail and sweet vernal grass is found here along with other flowers rarely found now. In recent years, mainly through organisations like the North Pennines AONB, great efforts are being made to bring more meadows back to the “old” condition. We follow permissive paths alongside the reservoir to arrive at Hury and take the road up to Botany. It is now a simple route to the east over Romaldkirk Moor all the way back to Romaldkirk. Gracies Farm on the far side of Thackwood Beck is interesting as it occupies the site of a turf cottage built by Grace Scott who in the time of the Great Plague of 1836 fled there for refuge and never went back until the plague had gone. After escaping the fate of many of her old neighbours she lost her life through her cottage accidentally catching fire. Such is life!
Romaldkirk Moor
A Walk Through Deserted Medieval Villages and Shrunken Villages in County Durham
Filed under: OtherDistance: 7.5 Miles
Start: Hammer and Pincers Pub (formerly the Blacksmiths pub). GR NZ 298 239
Click to View Start Position of Google Maps
As the title says this is a walk through history and indeed these deserted villages are part of our heritage. The classic book on these villages is by Richard Muir, called “The Lost Villages of Britain”, written in 1982. It is easily available. The reasons for the desertions are many and varied. They can be broken down into two phases.
The first was in the late 14th Century when climatic conditions were bad for crop growth and there were failed crops for several years. This was to lead to famine and was then followed by the Black Death. Villages were abandoned and there was less land under cultivation because there was less population. A good example is the village of Thockrington in Northumberland when a resident returned from the south and unknowingly brought the plague with him and the village was wiped out. Now only the church survives.
The second period was in the 18th and 19th Centuries when there were great improvements in agriculture which lessened the need for labour. As a side note, there was also the start of selective breeding as the nearby Ketton Ox testifies. At the same time a richer strata of society was developing and on occasions the Lord of the Manor wanted to be rid of settlements to increase privacy or improve the view from his house.
The walk today passes the sites of four villages, two of which still have dwellings from earlier days. The walk commences at the Hammer and Pincers pub near to Preston le Skerne. Records here go back to 1091 when it was known as Prestetona which is believed to be ‘dwelling of priests’. This is one of several hundred medieval villages in the period 900 to 1100 AD. It is interesting to see how the number of medieval villages has grown and records show that there were only 16 recorded in County Durham in 1954. The number increased to 29 in 1971 and then to 60 in 1977 and is now much higher. The reason for this was the development of an organisation called the Medieval Village Research Group (formerly known as the Deserted Medieval Village Research Group) who have since found many more villages, aided by aerial photography. The earthworks here, which is the site of the former settlement, are to the north on the south side of the River Skerne, dividing areas into small crofts between Preston East Farm and Preston West Farm and are shown on OS Explorer 305.
Railway bridge on the Clarence Railway 1833. Preston-le-Skerne.
We follow the road to the village crossing the A1M and, after passing through the village, turn right under the railway bridge. The line, formerly left what was known as the Clarence Line taking coal from Byers Green and mid Durham to Port Clarence, left the line at Stillington linking up with the line to Bishop Auckland and at Aycliffe. Its greatest days were in WW2 when it carried the armaments from the massive Royal Ordnance Factory at Aycliffe which employed 17,000 workers, most of whom were women, and were known as the Aycliffe Angels. There is further information on the web on these momentous times.
Clarence Railway Trackbed at Preston-le-Skerne.
On passing the bridge turn left parallel to the railway on the bridleway known as Wildgoose Lane which will date back to before the area was drained. Proceed in this direction to where the bridleway turns left over the fence line at spot height 77. To the south is a hill leading up to High Grindon and the site of the village was to the right of the bridleway leading to the top of the hill. There is no obvious track or indeed signs of the old village which have been ploughed out.
From the hill top continue south on Grindon Lane. At the first stile take great care as if there is foliage covering the bridge, there is a significant drop into a small stream! Cross the stile and continue south to Stainton Hill House. Not far from here is the deserted village of Elstob, not shown on the OS map. Turn right on the road here and head west for a few hundred metres to Preston Lodge. Here turn south onto Salters Lane, the name of which shows its old use, and continue past Oat Hill Farm and Fir Tree Farm and ignore the turning on the left called Catkill Lane half a mile later. Just before Newton Ketton take the green road to the right slowly climbing uphill in a north-west direction to High House Farm where you follow the waymarks which take you to the south of the farm.
Footpath near Newton Ketton
Follow the access road to Lime Lane, turn left for a very short distance and turn right on the access road to Whinfield House. After a few metres take the track on the left called Green Lane, well named, and cross over the A1M. When you reach the tarmac of Embles Lane turn right (north) on Heworth Lane to reach Heworth House. Take note here of the superb garden in front of the house.
Pond at Heworth House Farm, also the site of the Medieval Village of Heworth (11th century)
Heworth is first mentioned in the 11th Century and the ridge and furrows aspects and other humps of the old settlement are obvious. This area has been long settled and prehistoric flints have been found here. It is now only half a mile back to the start where you may get a well-earned drink or food but the pub is not open all day through the week.
College Valley and St Cuthbert’s Way
Filed under: Scottish Border AreaDistance: 10 miles
Start: College Valley Car Park GR 893281
Click to view start position on Google Maps
I do not normally include walks along National Trails on these walks as they are all well documented but there are times when they can be used to advantage to gain access to other areas as is the case on this relatively easy ten mile walk. The St Cuthbert’s Way is an excellent walk and well deserves four or five days of your time on another occasion and you may well decide to do that after completing this walk.
The walk starts at the car park just to the south of Hethpool by the cattle grid. Here there are extensive views south up the College Valley to the Cheviots. The derivation of College is uncertain but is thought to be a combination of col and leche meaning a stream passing through wet ground. There is a very nice little loop to start the walk which involves taking the St Cuthbert’s Way east towards Wooler. To pick this up this head north on the road towards Hethpool and you soon reach a row of attractive cottages built in 1926 which were designed by Robert Mauchlin. Here you are now on the St Cuthbert’s Way and head down towards Hethpool Mill. As soon as you cross the burn take the good track on the left which inclines slowly upwards for a short distance. On older maps the route is shown passing through a coniferous wood; this has now been felled and at its boundary there is a high gate and fence which enclose a large area which has been recently planted with a range of hardwood trees stretching up the flank of Wester Tor. There are a few wet patches along this stretch. You exit the wood by another gate and take a stile on the left heading back to the burn.
Hethpool Mill and College Burn
After a very short distance the St Cuthbert’s Way heads off right but here we leave it and continue to the burn where there is a fine waterfall called Hethpool Linn. The burn is crossed by a good footbridge and you now head upstream on a clear path. You cross a minor burn and then a stile. On your right is a wood behind which is Hethpool House and a 14th Century pele tower which is on private land. The path crosses a field and reaches the track used earlier which leads to the Hethpool Mill. Here turn right back to the road and the cottages.
Hethpool has had a famous occupant in the past when it was occupied by Lord Cuthbert Collingwood who was Nelson’s second in command at the battle of Trafalgar. There is a fine statue of him at the mouth of the Tyne at Tynemouth . He was born in 1750 and died in 1819 and is buried at St Paul’s Cathedral in London. Sadly he died at sea after several requests to return home. The loss of oak in Britain at the time encouraged him to plant acorns around the country and on his land he planted many oaks on his wood at Hethpool Bell, just to the north of the house.
The St Cuthbert’s Way heads west up the access road towards Elsdonburn Farm but before starting have a look down the drive into Hethpool House where several cannons taken from the defences of the Keep in Newcastle can be seen near to the entrance on the right. The path, which is well marked, starts at the bend in the road and it is a steady walk of just over a mile and a half to the farm. Turn left here through the farm passing the bungalow on your right and after two fields descend on your right to cross a ford over Shanks Sike. Ahead is a field behind which is a wood. Cross this field towards the wood aiming for the middle and enter the wood via a stile. There is a path through the wood (not always clear on the ground) and you exit at the corner of the wood. The path is clear now and it is a steady short climb up to the border ridge which is reached just to the south of Eccles Cairn at a gate where there is a “Welcome to Scotland” sign with a similar “Welcome to England” on the other side of the gate.
Border fence South of Eccles Cairn
There are wide-ranging views deep into Scotland with the Eildon Hills prominent along with the much wilder hills of the border ridge and Hownam Law. Alan Hall’s book in the Cicerone stable called “The Border Country “ covers much of this territory in front of you. The purists may decide here to continue on the St Cuthbert’s Way to where it joins the Pennine Way and then they jointly both make there way to Yetholm but there is little point in losing height. Have a seat and enjoy the view listening to the many skylarks that nest here. Note the old hill forts on some of the hills here, most noticeable of which is Burnt Humbleton about a mile to the north. This area is a very old border crossing which is actually a few hundred yards to the south of the gate and is where the Pennine Way reaches the border. The broken wall from the gate can be followed to the Pennine Way which is then immediately left by crossing back to England. The crossing was known, in the 15th Century, as the White Swire.
Head south-east on a good track past Maddies Well to Wideopen Head where there are a choice of routes. The main one to the east contours above the Wide Open Burn, on a terrace built years ago and leads directly to Trowhope Farm but a more interesting way is to seek out the little path that descends down towards the Wide Open Burn and then follows the left bank of the burn. On reaching level ground the burn is joined by the Trowup Burn which is crossed to arrive at a broad green track. There are lovely views here back up the Trowhope valley to its source on Black Hag on the Pennine Way and also the Schil a mile further south on the Pennine Way. The path towards Trowhope Farm in the distance looks as though it would go to the farm but instead crosses the Shorthope Burn to enter a conifer plantation. Currently the way through the wood is blocked by fallen trees from the storms of the 2013/ 2014 winter but a way can be found by following the fence on the wood side uphill and then going through a firebreak to arrive at a forestry road, which is followed uphill to the edge of the wood at a site of a former homestead. The stile on the right of way can be seen about 100 yards down the fence.
Wide Open Burn
The path is clear on the ground to a wall on the col at Sinkside where there is another plantation. If you had opted earlier for the apparent easier direct route to Trowhope Farm you can reach the same place direct from the farm by going up the steep slope to the col. Sinkside boasts a hill fort which is not visible from the path due to the trees but some of this plantation has also been felled. There is a path to the fort which is part of a route highlighted on the information board at Hethpool Car Park but again this is currently closed due to storm damage. The Forts path also visits forts on Great Hetha and Little Hetha to the north of Sinkside .
It is easy going now downhill all the way to the College Valley at Whitehall with fine views ahead to Hare Law and Wester Tor. Take note of all the new hardwood that has been planted on the slopes of Loft Hill to your right which given a few years will create a fine new wood and enhance the area for wildlife and visitors alike. At Whitehall there are two options – one is to follow the tarmac road back to the start. Traffic is negligible (as you need a permit costing £10 to use this private road and only 12 per day are issued) and this makes an easy finish to the walk. Alternatively you can head south for about half a mile to Cuddystone Hall and take the track to Sutherland Bridge across the College Burn, and then pick up the Permissive Path down the right hand side of the College Burn passing the deserted settlement of Harrowbog to arrive at Hethpool Mill.
College Valley below Sinkside Hill
For those wanting a longer walk, the Trowhope route can be omitted and the Pennine Way followed to either Black Hag where there is a route down to Mounthooly Bunkhouse (which has a YHA franchise) or proceed further to Red Cribs at GR 874201 where there is a track leading from one of the sources of the College Burn down to the valley upstream from Mounthooly. In adverse weather there is the Mountain Rescue Hut just past Red Cribs on the Pennine Way which can give shelter if needed. This refuge is looked after and cleaned by a Northumberland National Park Ranger now in his 80s who makes the climb up regularly and takes the litter way for disposal. If you are there help him by taking your own home and if possible taking others refuse back as well.
The College Valley was bought in 1953 by the Sir James Knott Trust and the Estate is managed by a Board Of Directors whose function is to manage the land in a way to increase its value both to the environment and also for social advantage and create an economic place of excellence focused on education and recreational enjoyment. This they do very well and the creation of so much new hardwoods exemplifies this, as can be seen on this walk. Indeed the 55,000 hardwood trees planted near Mounthooly was one of the biggest new woods in the country. Marks & Spencer also paid for 30,000 new hardwood trees here as a grant made by the company. For further information go to www.college-valley.co.uk and for more on the Sir James Knott Trust have a look at their website. This trust established the famous Knott Flats at Tynemouth near to the Collingwood Monument and the Knott Memorial Hall at Heddon on the Wall. Each year they distribute over a million pounds to charities in Durham, Tyne & Wear and Northumberland and all these donations are listed on their website as well as a history of the man himself. A great benefactor to the North East!
For further reading keep an eye open in second hand bookshops for “Ramblers Cheviot” written and illustrated by old friends of mine, Bernard and Babs Hiley and illustrated by Betty Fletcher (all now sadly deceased) who produced this book for the Ramblers Association in 1969 with a revision in 1976 and which has much useful information on the Cheviots, some of which was used in these notes.