Witton Gilbert to Wardles Bridge (Sanctuary Way Stage 3)
Filed under: Sanctuary WayDistance: 12 miles
Start: Wardles Bridge
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Witton Gilbert is an old settlement going back to Saxon times when it was known as Witton (white town). Following the Norman invasion, the land hereabouts became Norman owned under Gilbert de la Ley who lived here from1120 to 1180. He was a great benefactor to the area and some of his charters are preserved in Durham Library. He funded the rebuilding of Kepier Hospital and gave land to the Monks of Durham Cathedral for a retreat which was called Beau Repaire (later corrupted to Bearpark). Some time later the land came under the ownership of Gilbert de la Latone who followed up the good work and was thought to be the Gilbert after whom the village is named.
St Michael’s Church, where we start, was built around 1170 and retains several Norman features; the chancel arch is similar to the Galilee Chapel at Durham and there are two Norman windows in the south wall which will be seen on Stage 4.
Our way takes us out to the north behind some houses to follow a path to Fulforth where we join a bridleway which continues north through Fulforth Wood to arrive at Charlaw. On our right to the east lie the newer parts of Witton Gilbert and its close neighbour Sacriston. The village of Sacriston only goes back to mid 19th Century when it was built on empty moorland not dissimilar to Waldridge Fell. In 1889 a burial cist from the Bronze Age was uncovered showing that the area had been inhabited for over 3000 years. Similar cists have also been found at Witton Gilbert and the area was settled later by the Saxons as the names Fulforth, Findon, Witton and Edmundsley testify. In 1991 a gold pendant from the 7th Century (now at Bowes Museum) was unearthed at nearby Daisy Hill but this created a mystery as it was not from northern England. How did it get there? Nobody knows but landfill is thought to be the reason.
Charlaw is also an Anglo Saxon name derived from cerr, pronounced chare .At Charlaw you are on the site of one of the two major collieries here which led to the creation of the village but these closed in 1985. Prior to that there were medieval mines here at Charlaw in 1733 and at Findon Hill but it was the opening of Charlaw Mires in 1839 that attracted the new population. The land on which the mine, operated had previously been farmland. This was given by the famous Bishop Pudsey who gave the land to the Sacrist of Durham who established a farm here. The Sacrists were senior monks who looked after sacred vessels, lighting, heating and cleaning etc. They were also known as sextons or Sacristans derived from the French word Segristan. Following the dissolution of the monasteries in the late 1500s the land passed to Durham Cathedral’s Dean and Chapter. Remnants of their farm survive in the wood where they were known as Heugh House but this was demolished in the 1950s due to mining subsidence.
The way is clear through Sacriston Wood which is a Local Nature reserve (LNR) with a combination of ancient woodland where oak, birch and sycamore dominate, and also some dry grassland. There are also some wet flushes where dogs mercury, wood sorrel and ragged robin grow. On the other side of the valley is Daisy Hill, another LNR where Durham County Council have been planting juniper. Opposite East Farm is a pond where reed mace is abundant.
On reaching Warland (where the Stage 2 reaches Holmside Lane at spot height 149) cross the road to the waymarked path which is just to the left and head down to the footbridge crossing the Whiteside Burn. This burn eventually becomes the Cong Burn which enters the River Wear at Chester-le-Street. You will look in vain for the name Wardles Bridge on your map. This was the name of the pub which was a little further to the left at Warland Green but regrettably, like many rural pubs has sadly closed. At one time it had the largest selection of whisky in the north east.
Charlaw Lane
It is uphill now on Charlaw Lane which is an old route. If there has been dry weather take the footpath on the right (west) past Nursingfield Gill and the north edge of Tatlorshill Plantation to emerge at Standagainstall Plantation at GR187477. Where you reach a good bridleway heading on a north and south line, go south and slightly uphill to reach the road called Long Edge. This bridleway is used on the walk “The Northern Hills of Lanchester”. Turn left along the road in an easterly direction to Taylors Hill where you will meet up with the alternative route. If there has been wet weather continue up Charlaw Lane to arrive at the top of the hill at a transmitter station. It is not difficult to see why this site was chosen as there are fine views to the south to the Cleveland escarpment. Now turn right along Long Edge to Taylors Hill at GR 208477 Here you pick up a fine bridleway heading downhill.
Whichever route is chosen the way is clear along the road to Taylors Hill (GR208477) where a fine bridleway is picked up heading downhill with fine views into the Browney Valley. After just over half a mile we arrive at the remains of Langley Hall. I quote partly from the fine book by Neville Whittaker published by Frank Graham in 1975 which is now probably unavailable called “The Old Halls and Manor Houses of Durham”:
“Langley Hall now remains as a picturesque ruin, set within dark woodland near Witton Gilbert. The estate after several owners passed into the hands of the Scropes, Lords of Bolton Castle in Wensleydale. Lord Scrope married Isabel Dacre from The Dacre and Greystoke estate near Penrith and in the time of Henry VIII it was decided to build a fortified house here. Langley Hall was built around a courtyard in the same manner Haddon Hall in Derbyshire. There was a Great Hall on one side and a kitchen at the north end The west wing was three storeys high.”
Langley Hall
Crossing the A691 we proceed through the small industrial estate (noting the pet crematorium) drop down to a bridge over the Browney and climb up to the Lanchester Valley Walkway developed from the Lanchester Valley railway which opened in 1862 and closed in 1965.
Langley Park is mostly bypassed but was a quintessential pit village. The pit, which was owned by the Consett Iron Company, opened in 1875 and remained under their ownership until it was nationalised in 1948. From 1910 to 1930 it employed around 1000 people with the numbers dropping to 800 until it closed in 1975. Langley Park’s most famous son is Sir Bobby Robson who was brought up here. The walkway is followed towards Durham for over a mile to GR231447 where a path is picked up that leads to the bridge over the Browney and up the hill to St Michael’s Church and the start of Stage 4 which is the final stage.
A Look at the Castle Eden Line
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12 miles (or 16 miles if including the Embleton extension)
Map: OS Explorer 305 and 306
Start: Sedgefield Village Centre
Click to View Start Position on Google Maps
This walk was originally going to be called “What is the Cuckoo Line?” but was changed so as not to take the risk of losing friends who live in its location!
Sedgefield is a pleasant small town with some interesting buildings. The most notable is the church of St Edmunds with its fine tower which stands out surrounded by the green. Inside there is some intricate woodwork in the nave going back to the time of Bishop Cosin and this bears comparison with the woodwork from the same period at both Durham Cathedral and the Bishop Auckland Palace.
Also notable is the Manor House dating back to 1707. Look for the new Market cross which was erected in 2012 to celebrate the 700th Anniversary of the town being granted a market. Note also the plaque on the wall of the Dun Cow which recalls the time when Tony Blair entertained George Bush on its premises.
To begin the walk, head out of Sedgefield to the south east on the road to reach the A689 which is crossed with care to reach the side road which is used for group starts. Head south passing Manor Farm and the quaintly named Glower O’er Him farm to reach the A177 which is crossed to reach the Byway leading towards Thorpe Thewles. This is a Byway Open to All traffic (BOAT) which means that the byway can be used by vehicles compared to a Restricted Byway which does not allow motorised vehicles. This is followed south for about three and a half miles to emerge on a minor road on Shotton Moor. Take care not to follow the access road to Neasless Farm which turns off to the right shortly after the start.
On reaching the minor road just north of Whitton Moor farm continue ahead for a short distance to reach a minor road which is followed to the right towards Stillington. Just after the entrance to Whitton Three Gates a bridleway leaves the road on the left to arrive at Thorpe Thewles in just over a mile. This bridle way must be followed more carefully than normal as for a bridleway just outside a village as the way marking leaves room for improvement. Take care after crossing Maudlin Gutter to reach Hell Hole where there is a building. Pass this and look for a stile on your right which is crossed to follow a small stream through paddocks. Here the way marking is poor and you emerge into Thorpe Thewles passing a bungalow and joining the road at the end of School Close. Waymarking is entirely absent here!
Thorpe Thewles is an attractive village which was vastly improved when the A177 bypass was built. In these times of rural pub closures the village retains its two pubs, the Hamilton Russell and the Vane Arms. Our route now goes up the left hand side of the church into a paddock and on exiting you pass under the A177 by an underpass where a purpose made footpath is picked up. This goes through a pleasant field (passing an interesting sculpture which can be used to see the North Star) to reach the embankment of the Castle Eden Line. Here turn left and in a short distance you arrive at the old Thorpe Thewles railway station. The station was made into a visitor centre in 1983 two years after the walkway was opened.
Prior to reaching the station you will have passed the Planetarium which has many events on throughout the year. There are also fine tea rooms at the centre as well as the other usual facilities. The Castle Eden Line was known locally as the Cuckoo Line and was opened in stages by the North Eastern Railway. The first stage from Bowesfield Junction near Stockton to Carlton South (or Redmarshall as it was later called) opened on May 1st 1877 for freight traffic, and a further section to Wellfield near Wingate opened on August 1st 1878 also to freight traffic. The freight was principally Weardale Limestone, coal from West Durham and with some agricultural business. Passenger traffic started in 1880. This was always sparse as there was virtually no habitation alongside the line. In 1914 the bottom part of the route was electrified to bring coal from Witton Park colliery near Shildon utilising the Clarence Line to Redmarshall and then onto Middlesbrough for export and photos of this can be seen at Shildon National Railway Museum. This was one of the earliest electrified lines but it did not last and the route reverted to steam in 1935.
The Castle Eden Line was never a real success and ceased passenger traffic in 1931 and closed in 1951. The track was used until 1966 as a bypass route when there was maintenance work on the main Stockton, Hartlepool, Sunderland route and finally closed during the Beeching cuts between 1966 and 1968. A great feature of the route was the magnificent viaduct just to the south of Thorpe Thewles which had 22 arches and needed eight million bricks. Unfortunately this was demolished in 1979 to make way for the bypass.
It is easy walking along the walkway which we leave at GR 403275 at the side of West Carr Plantation which is half a mile south of the A689 and Wynyard Station, where the line can also be accessed. A four mile addition can be made to the walk at the West Carr junction by continuing to the A689 and at the north side taking the bridleway to the medieval village of Swainston where the bumps can be seen in the ground. This was partly excavated in 1957 and some pottery found. Half a mile to the north is another medieval village called Embleton, formerly called Elmdene. The villages were abandoned in the 14th Century, due to changes in the demesne system. At Embleton is a derelict church and some good photos of this can be seen on www.derelictplaces.co.uk
Go west from here back to the Castle Eden Line and then south back to GR 403275. From GR 403275 you are now on a bridleway through Brierley Wood, passing close to Cowley House farm. Watch for the path turning off to the right next to a small stream which is followed round to emerge on to a track from East Close Farm. The right of way goes through Square Plantation on its northern side but is underused and most people tend to use the metalled track on the south side of Square Plantation. This area was foxhunting country and at GR 385285 leave the bridleway to take the footpath to Cote Nook Farm. This is a clear track but beware as the footpath to Cote Nook Farm leaves this clear route when level with the farm and heads a shade north of west through fields and under the pylons to Cote Nook Farm and the A689. If by any chance the footpath across the fields is missed it can be picked up by using a gate just after passing the power lines on your right and the stiles on the correct route pick out the route. On reaching the A689 walkers for Sedgefield cross the road and return to Sedgefield by Beacon Lane whilst the route back to the garage follows the A689 on a footpath.
Isaac’s Tea Trail – What a Gem!
Filed under: OtherAs is my normal practice I do not put walks on this website when there is a reliable and informative book on the walk and the rule is applicable here. However I must start with a confession that despite having walked in the north country for sixty years and also completed over thirty long distance and named walks and having a cottage on the western edge of the North Pennines as well as living in sight of the eastern edge of the North Pennines I had never walked this 37 mile walk before!
We had crossed or used parts of it over the years and when Clive, one of our six strong walking group, suggested walking this Trail we enthusiastically took up his suggestion. It saved us having to ponder over where to go for a few weeks!
The original plan had been The Inn Way for the Yorkshire Dales but when we had failed to find a shop selling the guide on the two days prior to the start of that walk (and Clive had walked the route at the Haltwhistle Walking Festival) we made a quick change of plan.
It must be said that impressions of any walk can depend on weather conditions, company and the time of the year. On this walk all three were met with superb dry days and good conditions underfoot but also to know that we were privileged to be in such an area in springtime. The peewits, curlew, golden plover and oystercatchers were all around and calling to each other which created a very musical background. The route is a broadly circular walk following and linking the places that Isaac Holden had taken whilst selling tea to the local inhabitants in the early 19th Century. As a consequence the route passes through Allendale town, Alston, Nenthead and the valleys of the East Allen, West Allen and the Nent Valley plus a host of upland farms most of which could be used as film sets.
Isaac started working life in the lead mines before he opened a grocers shop with his wife in Allendale. Incidentally, in the period we were doing this walk Allendale was the runner-up behind York as the best place to live in the north based on many different factors. He took to walking the area selling tea, which had not long been readily available, whilst his wife looked after the shop. The originator of the walking route was Roger Morris (nearly twenty years ago) and he has published a book called “Isaac’s Tea Trail” (ISBN number 9780956012210) which is available in shops in the area or on the web.
Chatting in the pub after the walk in April 2019 we all agreed that this walk was easily the best waymarked walk that we had done anywhere and great credit is due to the Allenheads Trust who are aided by Northumberland County Council, the LDWA, Cumbria County Council Rights of Way Officers and the Hexham Group of the Rambler’s Association for the work that they have all done. The stiles were in good repair and the posts over from near Sinderhope to Nenthead were well placed so that in fair weather you always had your direction. There is also the added interest for some walkers who are interested in the relics of the lead mining industry. This walk is only 40 minutes drive from the Hadrians Wall National Trail and it is feasible to include a section of this from Greenhead to Chollerford (arguably the best section) where the contrast between the wide open quiet Isaac’s Tea Trail makes a super antidote to the crowds on Hadrians Wall. I can warmly recommend this walk and suggest you put this walk on your to-do list and do not leave it as long as l did!
Bowlees to Middleton in Teesdale
Filed under: OtherDistance:
Route 1 & 2 = 8.5 miles
Route 1 & 3 = 8 miles
Loop via Mickleton = 5 miles
Map: OS Explorer Map 31 – North Pennines
Start: Bowlees Visitor Centre (GR NY 908283)
Click to View Start Position on Google Maps
My normal route on this walk is to go via Coldberry Gutter to Middleton but this time we will use some paths that are not regularly walked. Basically there are three other routes which can be used. Two of these are on the north bank whilst the third is on the Pennine Way from Wynch Bridge.
Bowlees Visitor Centre was established in 1976 by the Durham Wildlife Trust to enable the public to understand Teesdale and its way of life, with an emphasis on the special and rare plant life as well as the excellent bird life. A prominent feature is the waterfall of Gibson’s Cave with its underhang reminiscent of Hardraw Force near Hawes in Wensleydale. Since 1976 there have been changes to the area, as there generally is everywhere, and notable in this aspect was the designation of much of the area as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in 1988 called the North Pennines AONB.
Walkers Leaving Bowlees Visitor Centre
2013 saw the 25th Anniversary of its creation and to celebrate this there were 25 special events organised. The designation gives enhanced protection to the area to ensure that the features which led to the original designation are maintained. There has been a considerable amount of work carried out by the AONB staff in developing the understanding of the area which has given it a higher national profile. The diversity of the events clearly illustrates the wide scope of the activities. Ten of the events had a geological theme and this was to highlight the fact that the AONB was awarded the status of a European Geopark in 2003 when it became the 15th member under the auspices of UNESCO and in the near future will be called a UNESCO Global Geopark. The 25th Anniversary has also seen a complete refurbishment of the Bowlees Centre which will be now open every day from Easter to October.
All of the work of the AONB can be read on their North Pennine News which can be obtained at the Dales Centre at Stanhope or on their website www.northpennines.org.uk/ or by telephoning tel 01388 528801.
The three ways to Middleton are as follows
1 – Proceed from Bowlees to Wynch Bridge, which is crossed to the other bank. The original suspension bridge on this site was built in 1704 and is thought to be the first suspension bridge in Europe. In 1802 a cable on this snapped killing one of the miners for whom it had been constructed and this bridge was replaced by the current one in 1830. The view upriver of Low Force is particularly attractive. In my younger days this fall was known as Salmon Leap but the pollution in the Tees in the second half of the 20th century prevented salmon from ascending the river. The word Tees is derived from Viking times and means a surging river.
River Tees from Wynch Bridge
The way downriver is very clear with the river on your left and meadows on your right. The Tees here separates Raby Estate with its white painted houses to the north from the Strathmore Estate to the south. In his Pennine Way Companion book Wainwright waxed eloquently about this section of the Pennine Way when he said “There are highlights of incomparable scenic quality along the route and much else of absorbing interest. The journey may be broken at Langdon Beck, and should be, for not often does one travel in such charming and fascinating surrondings. Always tarry long in the presence of beauty, for so much in life is barren”. Few will disagree with him.
2 – Leave Bowlees via the center and cafe and turn left along the B6277 for a short distance. Before reaching the Bowlees entry road take the track on the right alongside a wood and pass a farm. Head through the next field and on reaching the footbridge over Bowlees Beck, head left down to the Tees where another footbridge crosses Bowlees Beck. Do not cross the first footbridge over the beck as it goes to Newbiggin or if you want to see the chapel at Newbiggin leave Bowlees by the footpath to Hood Gill to the east where the road to Newbiggin is joined.
Newbiggin Wesleyan Chapel
The Wesleyan Chapel here is of interest as it is the oldest Wesleyan Chapel in the world in continuous use having been built in 1759. It houses a pulpit from which John Wesley preached. From Newbiggin a footpath leads down to the Tees and the north bank followed for about two miles to a bend at GR 927265 where the main road is reached. Cross the road and head east for about 100 yards and then follow the footpath uphill to Stonygill Head. The path heads diagonally across the first two fields to a stile in the corner and then passes to the right of a upgraded house to a track, before reaching the road which is followed downhill to Middleton. The fine building on the left at the entrance to Middleton was formerly the offices of the London Lead Company and was built in 1823. This was a Quaker company who placed a high priority on the welfare of their workers.
3 – Leave Bowlees as Route 2 to Newbiggin and proceed east through the village to a tight bend in the road where a footpath will be found just around the bend. This heads broadly east through a wood and crosses a beck where there is a fine waterfall. TAKE GREAT CARE HERE AS THE TRACK HAS A CONSIDERABLE DROP TO THE BED OF THE BECK AND PARTICULARLY IN WET WEATHER TENDS TO BE SLIPPY! The route is now past Bell House to Stonygill Head where the minor road is met and Route 2 joined.
It is also possible to do a loop around Middleton via Lonton and the Tees Walkway to Mickleton where we can head north east to cross the Tees where a route will be taken to Spotley Hall and Stanhope Gate back to Middleton.
To do this cross the border bridge over the Tees and immediately descend some steps down to the access road for Step Ends farm. Just past the farm go diagonally across the field in a south-west direction to Lonton. Cross the B6277 and head over the road to climb a concrete stile and reach the old railway line. Here turn left and pass through pleasant country. In May the blossom on the hawthorns along this track is particularly good.
Tees Railway Path near Lonton
After passing the Mickleton picnic site continue to where it climbs to a small road to Hury Reservoir and turn left towards Mickleton. After about 100 yards, where the road turns left, continue straight ahead on the waymarked route. When you get to the back of a farmhouse turn right (east) passing a hen house and after passing through two more fields watch for the stile on the left onto the road. Turn left towards Mickleton and take the road on the right which soon turns left to parallel the B6277. A short distance further look out for the good signpost to Beckstones Wath footbridge. The path soon leaves this track on the right (again a good sign) to reach Beckstones Bridge clearly visible across the field. This bridge was opened in 2002 by George Pendlebury who was Chairman of the AONB and was a champion of this area.
Head left on reaching the far bank and head upriver where you soon meet the Teesdale Way. Continue upriver to Sun Bank where the bridleway zig-zags up to the B6282 at Stotley Hall, a fine Jacobean building with mullioned windows. Note that there has been a deviation here and the path now comes out opposite the hall. Turn to Middleton and watch out for traffic. There is a good verge all the way west. Just before reaching Lane Side note the old milepost which says Middleton 1 mile and The Edge 8 miles.
Turn right to Stanhope Gate and behind the farm go through a white gate which follows a wall west to the Stanhope road. Take the footpath behind the houses which leads down through the graveyard to the church of St Mary built in 1886 from where it is a short distance onto Middleton main street.
Whichever way you do this walk you will pass through Middleton in Teesdale which is an attractive town and particular attention should be paid to the memorial fountain in the town centre. This was erected to mark the retirement of Robert Bainbridge from the London Lead Company. He was evidentally well respected as so much was subscribed that there were sufficient funds to erect a second fountain at Nenthead!
Wainwright’s Pennine Journey
Filed under: OtherI do not put walks on this website that are covered by existing guide books and do not intend to… however last week I walked on a section of Wainwright’s Pennine Journey from Blanchland to Hexham which was a distance of 12 miles from Blanchland to the banks of the Tyne, finishing next to the beautiful bridge reminiscent of the French bridges on the Loire, Dronne and Dordogne that l am well acquainted with. The whole route was a joy to walk!
A Pennine Journey is a 247 mile walk which is a circular starting at Settle which then goes to north to Hadrian’s Wall via the eastern side of the Pennines, then along the best parts of Hadrian’s Wall returning to Settle on the western side of the Pennines. The walk was established by David Pitt, a member of the Wainwright Society and published in 2010. However the genesis of this walk goes back more than seventy years to 1938 when Alfred Wainwright walked a route to Hadrian’s Wall and wrote a book on his walk a year later. Wainwright stated “l wrote a book of my travels, not for others to see but to transport my thoughts to that blissful interlude of freedom”. It must be remembered that these were exceptional historic times with Europe on the brink of war and great uncertainty. The book was kept at home in a drawer and in 1954 Alfred Wainwright came to the public eye when the first of his Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells was published. This was seized on by walkers as a superb unique book and over the years the series was completed with the publication of another six books. Many others followed.
Village Square, Blanchland
Go forward to the 1980s and the Pennine Journey book was seen by his editor Jenny Dereham at his publishers (Michael Joseph) who persuaded him to get the book published and indeed, having had the book for nearly thirty years like many others, it is an absolute treasure. In 1998 David Pitt and his wife who were members of the Wainwright Society and who, by then had spent several years devising a route which covered all of the places mentioned in the book, were successful in getting their book published. In his book he acknowledges the help he got from others.
Their route follows footpaths, much of which are on National Trails, and the production is “a la Wainwright” with good hand drawn maps, some good illustrations and excellent route descriptions. Since then those of who have recent maps will see that the whole walk is now highlighted on the OS Explorer Maps and the route is waymarked throughout. Our group recently walked a section from Sandford to Kirkby Stephen on lesser known paths and on a very hot day this was perfect to walk with some tree cover from the sun.
Regatta Day at the River Tyne, Hexham
David Pitt and the Wainwright Society have done a great job in creating and developing this walk and l cannot recommend it too highly. To me it comes in my top five long distance walks closely behind Offa’s Dyke as a favourite walk. The guide is published by Frances Lincoln and even if you do not walk the complete route it will still give you many days of pleasure!