A Walk Through Deserted Medieval Villages and Shrunken Villages in County Durham
Filed under: OtherDistance: 7.5 Miles
Start: Hammer and Pincers Pub (formerly the Blacksmiths pub). GR NZ 298 239
Click to View Start Position of Google Maps
As the title says this is a walk through history and indeed these deserted villages are part of our heritage. The classic book on these villages is by Richard Muir, called “The Lost Villages of Britain”, written in 1982. It is easily available. The reasons for the desertions are many and varied. They can be broken down into two phases.
The first was in the late 14th Century when climatic conditions were bad for crop growth and there were failed crops for several years. This was to lead to famine and was then followed by the Black Death. Villages were abandoned and there was less land under cultivation because there was less population. A good example is the village of Thockrington in Northumberland when a resident returned from the south and unknowingly brought the plague with him and the village was wiped out. Now only the church survives.
The second period was in the 18th and 19th Centuries when there were great improvements in agriculture which lessened the need for labour. As a side note, there was also the start of selective breeding as the nearby Ketton Ox testifies. At the same time a richer strata of society was developing and on occasions the Lord of the Manor wanted to be rid of settlements to increase privacy or improve the view from his house.
The walk today passes the sites of four villages, two of which still have dwellings from earlier days. The walk commences at the Hammer and Pincers pub near to Preston le Skerne. Records here go back to 1091 when it was known as Prestetona which is believed to be ‘dwelling of priests’. This is one of several hundred medieval villages in the period 900 to 1100 AD. It is interesting to see how the number of medieval villages has grown and records show that there were only 16 recorded in County Durham in 1954. The number increased to 29 in 1971 and then to 60 in 1977 and is now much higher. The reason for this was the development of an organisation called the Medieval Village Research Group (formerly known as the Deserted Medieval Village Research Group) who have since found many more villages, aided by aerial photography. The earthworks here, which is the site of the former settlement, are to the north on the south side of the River Skerne, dividing areas into small crofts between Preston East Farm and Preston West Farm and are shown on OS Explorer 305.
Railway bridge on the Clarence Railway 1833. Preston-le-Skerne.
We follow the road to the village crossing the A1M and, after passing through the village, turn right under the railway bridge. The line, formerly left what was known as the Clarence Line taking coal from Byers Green and mid Durham to Port Clarence, left the line at Stillington linking up with the line to Bishop Auckland and at Aycliffe. Its greatest days were in WW2 when it carried the armaments from the massive Royal Ordnance Factory at Aycliffe which employed 17,000 workers, most of whom were women, and were known as the Aycliffe Angels. There is further information on the web on these momentous times.
Clarence Railway Trackbed at Preston-le-Skerne.
On passing the bridge turn left parallel to the railway on the bridleway known as Wildgoose Lane which will date back to before the area was drained. Proceed in this direction to where the bridleway turns left over the fence line at spot height 77. To the south is a hill leading up to High Grindon and the site of the village was to the right of the bridleway leading to the top of the hill. There is no obvious track or indeed signs of the old village which have been ploughed out.
From the hill top continue south on Grindon Lane. At the first stile take great care as if there is foliage covering the bridge, there is a significant drop into a small stream! Cross the stile and continue south to Stainton Hill House. Not far from here is the deserted village of Elstob, not shown on the OS map. Turn right on the road here and head west for a few hundred metres to Preston Lodge. Here turn south onto Salters Lane, the name of which shows its old use, and continue past Oat Hill Farm and Fir Tree Farm and ignore the turning on the left called Catkill Lane half a mile later. Just before Newton Ketton take the green road to the right slowly climbing uphill in a north-west direction to High House Farm where you follow the waymarks which take you to the south of the farm.
Footpath near Newton Ketton
Follow the access road to Lime Lane, turn left for a very short distance and turn right on the access road to Whinfield House. After a few metres take the track on the left called Green Lane, well named, and cross over the A1M. When you reach the tarmac of Embles Lane turn right (north) on Heworth Lane to reach Heworth House. Take note here of the superb garden in front of the house.
Pond at Heworth House Farm, also the site of the Medieval Village of Heworth (11th century)
Heworth is first mentioned in the 11th Century and the ridge and furrows aspects and other humps of the old settlement are obvious. This area has been long settled and prehistoric flints have been found here. It is now only half a mile back to the start where you may get a well-earned drink or food but the pub is not open all day through the week.
College Valley and St Cuthbert’s Way
Filed under: Scottish Border AreaDistance: 10 miles
Start: College Valley Car Park GR 893281
Click to view start position on Google Maps
I do not normally include walks along National Trails on these walks as they are all well documented but there are times when they can be used to advantage to gain access to other areas as is the case on this relatively easy ten mile walk. The St Cuthbert’s Way is an excellent walk and well deserves four or five days of your time on another occasion and you may well decide to do that after completing this walk.
The walk starts at the car park just to the south of Hethpool by the cattle grid. Here there are extensive views south up the College Valley to the Cheviots. The derivation of College is uncertain but is thought to be a combination of col and leche meaning a stream passing through wet ground. There is a very nice little loop to start the walk which involves taking the St Cuthbert’s Way east towards Wooler. To pick this up this head north on the road towards Hethpool and you soon reach a row of attractive cottages built in 1926 which were designed by Robert Mauchlin. Here you are now on the St Cuthbert’s Way and head down towards Hethpool Mill. As soon as you cross the burn take the good track on the left which inclines slowly upwards for a short distance. On older maps the route is shown passing through a coniferous wood; this has now been felled and at its boundary there is a high gate and fence which enclose a large area which has been recently planted with a range of hardwood trees stretching up the flank of Wester Tor. There are a few wet patches along this stretch. You exit the wood by another gate and take a stile on the left heading back to the burn.
Hethpool Mill and College Burn
After a very short distance the St Cuthbert’s Way heads off right but here we leave it and continue to the burn where there is a fine waterfall called Hethpool Linn. The burn is crossed by a good footbridge and you now head upstream on a clear path. You cross a minor burn and then a stile. On your right is a wood behind which is Hethpool House and a 14th Century pele tower which is on private land. The path crosses a field and reaches the track used earlier which leads to the Hethpool Mill. Here turn right back to the road and the cottages.
Hethpool has had a famous occupant in the past when it was occupied by Lord Cuthbert Collingwood who was Nelson’s second in command at the battle of Trafalgar. There is a fine statue of him at the mouth of the Tyne at Tynemouth . He was born in 1750 and died in 1819 and is buried at St Paul’s Cathedral in London. Sadly he died at sea after several requests to return home. The loss of oak in Britain at the time encouraged him to plant acorns around the country and on his land he planted many oaks on his wood at Hethpool Bell, just to the north of the house.
The St Cuthbert’s Way heads west up the access road towards Elsdonburn Farm but before starting have a look down the drive into Hethpool House where several cannons taken from the defences of the Keep in Newcastle can be seen near to the entrance on the right. The path, which is well marked, starts at the bend in the road and it is a steady walk of just over a mile and a half to the farm. Turn left here through the farm passing the bungalow on your right and after two fields descend on your right to cross a ford over Shanks Sike. Ahead is a field behind which is a wood. Cross this field towards the wood aiming for the middle and enter the wood via a stile. There is a path through the wood (not always clear on the ground) and you exit at the corner of the wood. The path is clear now and it is a steady short climb up to the border ridge which is reached just to the south of Eccles Cairn at a gate where there is a “Welcome to Scotland” sign with a similar “Welcome to England” on the other side of the gate.
Border fence South of Eccles Cairn
There are wide-ranging views deep into Scotland with the Eildon Hills prominent along with the much wilder hills of the border ridge and Hownam Law. Alan Hall’s book in the Cicerone stable called “The Border Country “ covers much of this territory in front of you. The purists may decide here to continue on the St Cuthbert’s Way to where it joins the Pennine Way and then they jointly both make there way to Yetholm but there is little point in losing height. Have a seat and enjoy the view listening to the many skylarks that nest here. Note the old hill forts on some of the hills here, most noticeable of which is Burnt Humbleton about a mile to the north. This area is a very old border crossing which is actually a few hundred yards to the south of the gate and is where the Pennine Way reaches the border. The broken wall from the gate can be followed to the Pennine Way which is then immediately left by crossing back to England. The crossing was known, in the 15th Century, as the White Swire.
Head south-east on a good track past Maddies Well to Wideopen Head where there are a choice of routes. The main one to the east contours above the Wide Open Burn, on a terrace built years ago and leads directly to Trowhope Farm but a more interesting way is to seek out the little path that descends down towards the Wide Open Burn and then follows the left bank of the burn. On reaching level ground the burn is joined by the Trowup Burn which is crossed to arrive at a broad green track. There are lovely views here back up the Trowhope valley to its source on Black Hag on the Pennine Way and also the Schil a mile further south on the Pennine Way. The path towards Trowhope Farm in the distance looks as though it would go to the farm but instead crosses the Shorthope Burn to enter a conifer plantation. Currently the way through the wood is blocked by fallen trees from the storms of the 2013/ 2014 winter but a way can be found by following the fence on the wood side uphill and then going through a firebreak to arrive at a forestry road, which is followed uphill to the edge of the wood at a site of a former homestead. The stile on the right of way can be seen about 100 yards down the fence.
Wide Open Burn
The path is clear on the ground to a wall on the col at Sinkside where there is another plantation. If you had opted earlier for the apparent easier direct route to Trowhope Farm you can reach the same place direct from the farm by going up the steep slope to the col. Sinkside boasts a hill fort which is not visible from the path due to the trees but some of this plantation has also been felled. There is a path to the fort which is part of a route highlighted on the information board at Hethpool Car Park but again this is currently closed due to storm damage. The Forts path also visits forts on Great Hetha and Little Hetha to the north of Sinkside .
It is easy going now downhill all the way to the College Valley at Whitehall with fine views ahead to Hare Law and Wester Tor. Take note of all the new hardwood that has been planted on the slopes of Loft Hill to your right which given a few years will create a fine new wood and enhance the area for wildlife and visitors alike. At Whitehall there are two options – one is to follow the tarmac road back to the start. Traffic is negligible (as you need a permit costing £10 to use this private road and only 12 per day are issued) and this makes an easy finish to the walk. Alternatively you can head south for about half a mile to Cuddystone Hall and take the track to Sutherland Bridge across the College Burn, and then pick up the Permissive Path down the right hand side of the College Burn passing the deserted settlement of Harrowbog to arrive at Hethpool Mill.
College Valley below Sinkside Hill
For those wanting a longer walk, the Trowhope route can be omitted and the Pennine Way followed to either Black Hag where there is a route down to Mounthooly Bunkhouse (which has a YHA franchise) or proceed further to Red Cribs at GR 874201 where there is a track leading from one of the sources of the College Burn down to the valley upstream from Mounthooly. In adverse weather there is the Mountain Rescue Hut just past Red Cribs on the Pennine Way which can give shelter if needed. This refuge is looked after and cleaned by a Northumberland National Park Ranger now in his 80s who makes the climb up regularly and takes the litter way for disposal. If you are there help him by taking your own home and if possible taking others refuse back as well.
The College Valley was bought in 1953 by the Sir James Knott Trust and the Estate is managed by a Board Of Directors whose function is to manage the land in a way to increase its value both to the environment and also for social advantage and create an economic place of excellence focused on education and recreational enjoyment. This they do very well and the creation of so much new hardwoods exemplifies this, as can be seen on this walk. Indeed the 55,000 hardwood trees planted near Mounthooly was one of the biggest new woods in the country. Marks & Spencer also paid for 30,000 new hardwood trees here as a grant made by the company. For further information go to www.college-valley.co.uk and for more on the Sir James Knott Trust have a look at their website. This trust established the famous Knott Flats at Tynemouth near to the Collingwood Monument and the Knott Memorial Hall at Heddon on the Wall. Each year they distribute over a million pounds to charities in Durham, Tyne & Wear and Northumberland and all these donations are listed on their website as well as a history of the man himself. A great benefactor to the North East!
For further reading keep an eye open in second hand bookshops for “Ramblers Cheviot” written and illustrated by old friends of mine, Bernard and Babs Hiley and illustrated by Betty Fletcher (all now sadly deceased) who produced this book for the Ramblers Association in 1969 with a revision in 1976 and which has much useful information on the Cheviots, some of which was used in these notes.
East of Beamish on the Heritage Way and then to Brightlea Wood
Filed under: County Durham Border, Heritage WayDistance: 10.5 miles
Start: Eden Place Picnic Area, Beamish (GR NZ220 537)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
This is a further walk along the Co Durham and Gateshead border – this time to the east from Beamish. The village of Beamish is a relatively new creation being formed in 1873. Formerly Beamish referred to the lands surrounding Beamish Hall and was a parish of Tanfield. The new Beamish consisted of Stanley, Shield Row, Kip Hill, Ox Hill, East Kyo, East Stanley and Beamish Stables. At this time the population was expanding rapidly due to the opening of three coal mines. The coal seams in the area can be up to 40 feet thick and mines were opened in West Stanley in 1833, Air Pit in 1849 and the Beamish Mary in 1883. The latter lasted until 1960. There was a fourth pit known as Chop Hill (also known as Beamish No 2) and a row of houses were built to house the miners. This was called Eden Row and was situated close to the Stanhope and Tyne Railway.
Eden Place where you are now standing and Eden Square were then built a little further to the north and the village consisted of 70 houses, a school and a chapel. The winding house of the colliery still exists as it is the one rebuilt at Beamish Museum and goes back to the early days of steam engines. The houses were built by the coal owner James Joicey and were started in 1878. Joicey was buried at Tanfield Church where his grave is the most prominent grave in the churchyard. The school had a capacity of 400 but the average attendance was 274. The village lasted until recent times when it was demolished to create space for the new road following the closure of Consett Steelworks.
Beamish Hall was the home of two prominent Durham families who were the Shafto family (Bobby Shaftoe) and the Eden family from whom Sir Anthony Eden the PM was descended. The name Beamish is derived from the Old English Bew Mys meaning beautiful Mansions.
River Team at Urpeth
Our route takes us east utilising the Tyne and Wear Heritage Way path towards South Shields and initially follows the old railway down to the road at Urpeth. Instead of descending down the road to Urpeth Bridge we turn right for a short distance and cross the waymarked stile to go down to the River Team by a series of steps. The building at the stile is Urpeth South Farm which has now been split to provide attractive housing. We now follow the River Team which serves as the border in this area and the whole valley is particularly attractive and is a superb area for wildlife and in particular for butterflies. Following the Heritage Way waymarks with their coal chaldron we climb out of the valley and reach Riding Farm. The dimensions of the farmhouse indicate a building of considerable age with its narrow width and steep roof.
Riding Farm, Kibblesworth
Leaving Riding Farm follow the waymarks to reach Clarty Lane which is generally okay and walk along it towards Kibblesworth. When you reach the old railway keep to the Heritage Way by turning right and downhill, unless you want food at Kibblesworth. This railway was the Pontop to Jarrow railway built by the Grand Coal Alliance, having earlier passed by the Tanfield Sheds which are the oldest working railway sheds in the world.
We walk downhill passing by the nature Reserve created by SITA on the site of old clay pits. This was a new site about 2000 and has developed well and in 2015 was found to be a breeding site for the Grayling butterfly hitherto unknown in this area. On reaching the Ouston to Lamesley road, cross over to look at the reed beds. This was planted with reeds and their purpose was to clean up the water released from treated sewage from Kibblesworth and now sees swallows and martins, although sadly fewer swifts that only ten years ago. Nearby at Lamesley are the Lamesley Meadows which attract a host of wildlife and there is a hide next to the Ravensworth Arms.
Recross the road back towards Kibblesworth and after about 30 yards take the path on the left which runs parallel to the road and keep on it to the small building which harvests the methane from the landfill site which was tipped into the old clay pits. Here take the road over another Urpeth Bridge (take care here) and shortly after take the footpath on the left (currently no waymark) and head south-east on a clear path into land now owned by the Woodland Trust. This wood is now thriving having been planted about 20 years ago. Now proceed towards the main London to Edinburgh railway line.
On reaching the Ouston to Birtley road turn right for 20 yards and follow the road into an industrial estate but only for a short distance. Now take the marked footpath into Brightlea Wood where there is an information board. This path goes south with the houses of Ouston uphill on the right. The view to the east was in the past all industrial, albeit at a distance, with Durham Chemicals, Komatsu and the Royal Ordnance factory all now gone. Keep heading south to reach Ouston Springs farm after you have left the wood and turn right here to the first houses where you now turn left to Ouston Villa Farm which is not entered. Instead keep straight on over the stile and a further stile to reach a very busy main road which is the A693. Only cross when the road is clear as the traffic is very fast moving!
King Coal Sculpture on the C2C Route
You are in a cutting here and the path over it is a shade further east. Climb up to enter a field and walk to High Flatts farm which you pass on your right to the field corner where there is a stile, then walk out to the road. Turn right at at the Plough Inn turn left down the signposted path and walk down for about 150 yards to reach the Stanhope and Tyne Railway track bed opened in 1834. This is now part of the C2C cycle route and was previously the line where the iron ore was brought to Consett from South Shields. It was a sight not to be forgotten when the massive 2-10-0 steam engines, often double headed were pounding up the bank! The trackbed was converted to a cycle track around 1990. This walk is a superb example of macro regeneration of industrial land which was generally polluted and anyone who knew it in 1950 would never recognise it now!
From here it is a further two miles back to the start of the walk and take note of all the bushes at the side of the line and the birds which inhabit the area.
Round the East Durham Reserves
Filed under: OtherDistance: 11 miles
Start: Shadforth Village Green, DH6 1LJ (GR NZ 345410)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
The original reason for this walk was to make people aware of an attractive and relatively small area where there is a wealth of special plant life as well as an abundant number and variety of birds. When this is added to the industrial heritage of the area there is always plenty to observe and enjoy here. This area also illustrates the excellent work carried out by Durham County Council and other bodies in clearing up the quite recent eyesores of past mining and quarrying activities and then at the same time creating some of the nature reserves that are visited or passed on this walk.
When l first mentioned to several people that l had been walking footpaths around Cassop, Kelloe and Shadforth, few of them knew where I meant and in some ways this is understandable as this area a few years ago was the scene of much desolation and had no main roads go through it. There are superb views to be enjoyed here of Durham Cathedral and later in the walk distant views of the Cleveland Hills and the Pennines.
The locals themselves have been very involved in the changes hereabouts and this is evident in Shadforth where we start the walk. Some time ago Durham County Council produced an excellent booklet entitled “Of Wooded Vales and Limestone Hills” which gives detailed descriptions of what to see in the area and parts of this walk involves routes given in this booklet. The special emphasis in this area is the magnesium limestone grasslands which are very rare internationally and are home to a very specific and rare collection of plants. A special book “Magical Meadows and the Durham Magnesium Limestone” has also been produced by Durham County Council to highlight this area which is a “jewel in the crown” of the regions diversity. Indeed of the 307 hectares of Magnesium Grassland some 279 hectares are protected as SSSI’s.
Shadforth , where the walk starts, is an old village appearing in the Boldon Book of 1183 the name deriving from shallow ford. It is a green village with a long village green similar to Tudhoe, Staindrop etc and has an active Local History Group. Among their achievements has been the restoration of the village green and the erection of Interpretation Boards. We start by heading due west out of the village ignoring the other footpath and the west end which initially goes to the south. Our path leads to the site of Shadforth Mill although we leave it before reaching the site near Shadforth Beck. Note the work that has been done by the village creating a small reserve that has transformed a marshy area and created two ponds. The boardwalks here are very useful and here we take the one on the left which follows a hedge round to the left before heading south.
Shadforth Village Green
You soon join the bridleway, which you ignored earlier in the village, and head up the lane to a right hand turn. In front of you is a bank surrounding Running Waters Quarry and to pass it go to the left alongside the hedge to the field on the right where there is a waymark from where you then head directly south uphill. Ahead is an awkward concrete stile, a shade to the left, which is crossed and then follow the field slightly south east to the farm of Cassop Smithy. Take great care crossing the busy and fast moving A181 here to take the minor road to Old Cassop. This hamlet also goes back to the 11th Century and the aforementioned Boldon Book produced by Bishop de Pudsey who was the Bishop of Durham at the time. This is a Conservation village and the old cart building on your right has been sensitively restored.
Shadforth Bridleway
Continue through the village climbing slowly up after the road turns south. After half a mile on the descent take the first footpath on the left which leads to Cassop Vale Nature Reserve. This is a good footpath and you have a wood on your left slightly up the hill. This area was the site of Cassop Vale Colliery which was sunk in 1840 and closed in 1868. In winter this is a good area for fieldfare and redwings feeding on hawthorn berries but thrushes are now rarely seen here. Continuing along the footpath you come to Cassop Bogs which is a SSSI. The pond, which was formed by mining subsidence, can contain several common species of duck such as mallard, teal, coot and waterhen but I have yet to see a water rail which can appear here. This was balanced by seeing a goshawk here some years ago. Cassop Colliery was situated here and operated from 1836 to 1878.
Cassop Vale Nature Reserve
For those in need of sustenace the village of Cassop (formerly New Cassop) has a shop and a pub and the village is visible just ahead up the concrete road. If you go to the village you can go west along the road to a footpath which goes to Beacon Hill and Crowtrees. However it is better to go sharp right westwards before you start the ascent to the village and take the footpath through Big Wood which is part of the Nature Reserve and is Ancient Woodland. i.e. it has been in existence prior to 1600. In Quarrington Hill is Littlewood, also a Nature Reserve opposite Cassop School which has won awards for its environmental credentials. Big Wood is best in springtime with a good display of bluebells.
A short climb brings you to the road near to the Heather Lad pub. This pub is quite nostalgic for me as in the late 1950s my cycling club (The Newcastle and Gateshead Clarion) used the nearby Quarrington Hill for their hill climbing competition. The pub has never changed in my lifetime staying in the same family but for how long it can survive in the current climate is debateable.
Walking towards Quarrington Hill you pass St Paul’s Churchyard which is managed for wildlife as over 70 species of native wildflowers and grasses grow among the graves and this illustrates what this area would have looked like before the onset of modern farming practices. St Paul’s Church was built in 1868, when the local population was much higher due to all the coal mines, and was then demolished in 1993.
At the start of the houses take the footpath on your right next to the Interpretation Board. The footpath on the left comes down here from Beacon Hill next to the houses. Beacon Hill is so named as there was a beacon here ready to be lit should an invasion occur during the Napoleonic Wars. You have now entered a reclamation area planted with trees which is part of Crowtrees Nature Reserve managed by Durham County Council. The old quarry face to the north next to the graveyard is interesting and again this is a good area for birds with several finch species seen here regularly. Not a bad area for owls either with little owl and tawny owls about as well as birds of prey including buzzard. The Interpretation Board at the entrance highlights the mining history as there were two mines in this vicinity. Heugh Hall Colliery near to Old Quarrington opened in 1840 and closed in 1897 and was once owned by William Hedley of Puffing Billy fame while Crowtrees Colliery down in the valley was sunk in 1820 and also closed in the 1890s. Part of the shaft supports are all that is left of this mine.
Crowtrees Nature Reserve
The track reaches the road at the west end of Quarrington Hill and the path directly across the road is taken again through an area of newly planted trees. Follow the footpath, which goes round the back of the houses, and after about 400 yards take any of the paths on the right through the trees and keep south to get to Kelloe, where you emerge onto a housing estate. These houses are designed on a crescent which is followed to the right down to the main road. This is crossed and a footpath through a new iron gate is followed downhill to a footbridge over Kelloe Beck. Here is the trackbed of the old Clarence Railway which transported coal from the area to Port Clarence on the Tees. It is now a good path which is followed east crossing a road and then coming out at an open cemetery site with sculptured artwork relating to the coal mine of East Hetton Colliery. Nearby is a plaque commemorating ten men killed in an inundation of water at the pit. East Hetton was operated from 1837 right up to 1983 and at its peak employed 1100 men and boys. Some of the pits were interconnected and indeed some survivors of the Trimdon Grange Explosion escaped from Trimdon Grange via East Hetton. The sculpture shows a simulated entrance to a mine and the columns are decorated with the miners tokens which were used to know who was in the mine at any particular time. East Hetton operated at a depth of 900 feet. Alan Price of The Animals fame made a popular record of a song written by Tommy Armstrong of Tanfield near Beamish (The Pitman Poet)called “The Trimdon Grange Explosion”. Armstrong’s grave is visited on one of the walks starting at Beamish and versions of this song by both Alan Armstrong and Louis Killen can be found on YouTube. Well worth a listen!
East Hetton Colliery Memorial
Next and immediately over the road is St Helen’s Church which is a beauty in a lovely setting. It is Norman in origin as can be noted by its heavily buttressed west tower and the Norman doorways on the south and to the north side of the nave. There is also a famous cross in this church dedicated to Saint Helena. Proceeding east along he road we come to the site of the East Hetton Slurry lagoons ahead. All is nature now with smooth newts colonised in the pond but formerly this site was covered with deep slurry which covered everything except the tallest trees. Take the footpath to the north of the beck, as the other on the south can be wet after wet weather, and next to a newly created pond the main path heads uphill to the north. Follow this for a short distance to where it turns right and here continue straight up following the water channel through the young trees. This was the site of a massive pit heap which was one of the tallest in Co Durham. It was reclaimed in the 1990s and planted with thousands of trees.
St Helen’s Church, Kelloe
At the top within sight of Cassop you come to a t-junction of tracks. If you turn left here you arrive at Littlewood Local Nature Reserve (LNR) designated in 2001 which supports 13 nationally rare plants and 84 rare invertebrates and is opposite Cassop School. On this site can be found the Dark Red Helleborine flower and the Northern Brown Argus Butterfly. In 2013 the four fields at the top and on the right on the way up from the lagoons have been planted with 60,000 trees (mainly oak) on 350 acres of fields. This work has been carried out by the Woodland Trust in collaboration with Durham County Council as part of the Woodland Trusts Diamond Jubilee Woods Project. What a sight to see in fifty years hence and another great effort by the Trust to enhance our county along with Burnhall, Dipton ,Elemore and many others!
Pass through these new woods on the lane to Cassop village next to the t-junction and at the entrance to the village take the old railway track, initially along the back of the houses, heading east. It is worth the extra few minutes to leave this track for a while after about 500 yards to go through to the main road and see the mural on the side of “The Pub & Kitchen” pub. After about a mile on the railway track you come out on the A181 which is crossed and the track picked up again. The board on the roadside gives the story of how the village of Thornley started the Durham Miners Gala.
Leave the track immediately after the exercise circuit form the nearby stables on the left and go north to the main street which is crossed to pick up a footpath which leads to Ox Close Farm. The first half mile of this footpath is appalling with dog crap every two yards and it would be impossible to allow a child to walk along here. This is in spite of a disposal bin and relevant notices. Some of the residents of the village should be ashamed of their total disregard of others and do themselves, the village or indeed to the County of Durham no credit at all. Over a long period this is possibly the worst place for rubbish that we pass through anywhere in the county. The path improves after climbing up a little before dropping down to Ox Close where you turn left on to the road via the house entrance. Head north on the road until opposite Paradise Farm where you cross the stile on your left to follow the waymarked route back to Shadforth noting the ruins of Low Croft Farm shortly after leaving the road at Paradise. Shadforth Dene which is up to the left as you descend to the village is a pleasant place with a footpath through it leading to the road which can be followed back to Ox Close to make a short circular walk from Shadforth.
Sedgefield, Bishop Middleham and the River Skerne
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12.5 miles
Start: Hardwick Country Park (GR 346287 at junction of A689 and A177)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
This walk starts at the car park of Hardwick Hall Country Park which is one of the jewels in Co Durham’s crown. The park was developed by John Burdon from Tyneside who took over the estate in 1748. Hardwick Hall, which is viewed from a distance, has no particular outstanding features and is now a hotel. It does however enjoy lovely views of the restored park to which it is linked by paths. The grounds, which contained follies and lakes, had fallen into disuse during the 20th centry but around 1990 Durham County Council displayed great vision and (with help from the Heritage Lottery Fund) over a period of years restored the grounds and some of their buildings to their former glory. In addition they built a visitor centre with cafe and rooms for countryside activities which benefit the children of the area.
The walk starts by going into the park and through the mock Gothic gateway which actually contains stones from Guisborough Priory. After walking north alongside the smaller lake the ruins of the Banqueting Hall are passed and we continue along the south of the main lake looking across to the hall. These lakes contain a wealth of birdlife at all times and have breeding coots, moorhens, mute swans and mallards. Ahead of you is the restored temple of 1754 -1757 which is a domed octagonal building surrounded by a square colonnade with six columns on each side.
Hardwick Hall Country Park
Returning to the water on the left is the Serpentine Bridge built in the 1760s which was restored in the 1990s. Heading west you come to the south-west extremity of the park which is exited onto a well waymarked bridleway . This soon reaches the bridleway from the car park which heads north, then west and north again. In the 1850s the land hereabouts was the site of a tile and brickworks. The bridleway then heads north-west over fields which show rigg and furrow ploughing patterns. A walk leaflet produced by Sedgefield Borough and Durham County Council mention that the shape of these (a reverse S) show that the field was ploughed by oxen which had a wider turning circle. The countryside both north from here to Bishop Middleham and south west towards Aycliffe was formerly very wet and there has been several drainage schemes over the centuries. Indeed Selkirk the Roman historian postulated that the Romans had linked the River Skerne to Croxdale Burn and then the River Wear.
Our route is clear on the ground heading north and climbs up to the old trackbed of a mineral railway line. At this spot we now have two routes to Bishop Middleham:
(1) By turning left in a south-west direction along the old mineral line, before crossing the river and following the track for a short distance, some steps lead down to a footbridge over the Skerne which is crossed. You now cross the old trackbed of the line which served Bishop Middleham Colliery and associated brickworks and head north-west to reach the deer park wall of the Bishops Castle. In the wall are the remains of a pack horse bridge. This probably served an old salt route and we walk on one of the salters lanes later in the walk. The salt came from the salt panns near Greatham on the Durham coast. The route now goes due north passing the site of Bishop Middleham Castle on your right which is mentioned as far back as 1099. Two former bishops died here. A leaflet on a 3 mile circular walk produced by Groundworks East Durham some time ago states that in this area can be found the thistle Carlina Vulgaris on the south-west slope of the old castle site, which has the properties of curing dysentry. The plant disappeared for many years but reappeared in 1976 and is now thriving. You now reach Foulmarts Lane where common mallow and golden stonecrop can be found growing on the walls. Foulmarts were a marten like a pine marten which lived in these walls and area and decimated game birds. I think these were what is known in France as beech martens and they are ferocious creatures as l know from experience! You now turn into the old part of the village.
(2) The alternative way to Bishop Middleham heads north-east from the mineral line and crosses the Skerne by a footbridge before heading NW to arrive at a picnic spot with a small lake and seats on the edge of the village. The whole of this area is great for birds with many waders to be seen . In spring are found lapwings (peewits) and golden plover en-route to the Pennines to breed. Go through this small reserve to the south-west corner where there is a stile and then head up steeply behind the church to reach Foulmarts Lane. The two routes combined make an attractive short walk.
Bishop Middleham Village Centre
St Michaels Church in Bishop Middleham is from the early 13th century. The next building on your right is Middleham Hall built in 1761 which was an Academy for Boys, apparently run on the same lines as Woden Croft and Dickens Dotheboys School. Also to be found on the bank going down to the crossroads is the Old Vicarage on your right and the equally old Victorian Police House opposite, which was one of the first police houses following the formation of the police force by Sir Robert Peel in 1829 (where the name bobbies came from).
Go straight over the crossroad and uphill past the houses to cross over the road leading to Ferryhill Station and continue north past the working quarry of dolomitic limestone on your left. After about 200 yards you will see a sign on your right giving access to Bishop Middleham Nature Reserve run by the Durham Wildlife Trust. Bishop Middleham Reserve is an SSSI and famous for its flora especially orchids, however the quarry became famous in 2002 when it saw thousands of visitors who had come to see the breeding bee eaters who were nesting on the old quarry face to the north of the site. This was one of the very few occasions that these attractive birds have bred in the UK and being so far north this was exceptional! The path entering the site skirts the southern periphery for a while before descending to the left where it joins the other path through the site. Before heading out on your right turn left to see the famous site where the birds were given 24hr protection against egg snatchers.
Bishop Middleham Nature Reserve
Now turn around and leave the site by a gate with Farnless farm in front of you. You pass the farm to the left, descending to a small pond and a well-placed seat. Continue heading east and looking to your right expect a surprise as you should see a herd of bison from the North American plains! The reason for this is that Farnless Farm specialises in low cholesterol meat from their herds of bison (also known as buffalo) and of red deer. In addition they have elk and iron age pork. Look at their website for full details of this interesting and healthy venture. The way now is to follow the clear track to the east to join the A177. Turn right for a short distance and take the access road to West House farm and where the track turns to the right, half way to the farm, enter the field in front of you. This is crossed diagonally to pass to the south of the farm.
On passing the garden behind the farm continue east towards Fishburn. Again here a surprise may await you as you are passing Fishburn Airport which has a 600 metre grass landing strip which has been seen in a Bollywood film. At the end of the field containing the airport cross the stile and head south down the field site. The right of way leaves the field boundary about half way down to head south-east towards the houses but the locals appear to continue round the west and south side of the field to reach the entrance of Fishburn.
Footpath near to Fishburn
Fishburn is a typical Durham large mining village. There is conjecture on the derivation of its name with two views. One is that it is named after the good fishing obtained in the nearby River Skerne or the more likely one, in my view, is that it is named after the Fissebourne family who gave their name to the manor. In the 1950s the colliery and coke works to the south employed over 1500 people but now there is only a small monument left to record the site. The village does benefit by its proximity to Sedgefield with its numerous pubs and shops and all the usual facilities of a small town. There is an SSSI on the grasslands to the north which has an interesting flora. otherwise there is nothing to detain you.
Walk east along the main street (there is a better way just to the south for a while) and over the cross roads to the end of the village next to the recreation ground. Here turn left and after about 100 yards take the access road on your right leading to Galley Law Farm. Just before the new farmhouse look for a poor stile on your right (which is too narrow and has no foot rest) and proceed south to another stile which is crossed. Continue south to reach Salters Lane. On the map it looks as there may have been a junction of Salters Lanes here with one heading north through Shotton Colliery and another possibly heading west. Follow Salters Lane east through attractive country to cross the bridge over the Skerne where you then head downriver on the left bank. After half a mile recross the Skerne on the bridge and head just west of north across the field passing some trees with an owl box in one of them.
The route on the ground here is not that plain but on picking up the track from Salters Lane head south to a fence and a stile. If time is short a mile can be saved by taking the track leading off Salters Lane well before you reach the Skerne at GR382318 to reach the same place. Proceed towards Bridge House Farm but if you are using an older map note that the right of way down the access road has been extinguished. It is necessary to head north-west when you reach the farm to reach Butterwick Road via a stile – better waymarking is required here! Go down the road to the access road to the farm. On the other side is a waymark but currently (Feb 2012) it is necessary to climb the gate. Again the route on the ground is not clear but there are no problems with access. Head south-west past the pylons and then stay close to the beck to find a good footbridge over the Skerne. If in doubt aim for the mast on top of the hill. There are waymarks after the footbridge and it is uphill to pass Ryall Farm on your right before crossing a stile and walking across the field to reach the farm access road. This is followed south to reach Butterwick Road which leads into Sedgefield on your right.
Compared to the excellent waymarking from Sedgefield to Fishburn there is a significant deterioration on the paths back to Sedgefield from Fishburn regarding waymarking, although it must be emphasized that in no place, apart from having to climb over gates are you impeded. More waymarking would certainly prove beneficial here!
Sedgefield Village Green
Sedgefield is a fine small town which was granted a charter for a market in 1312 and has many attractive buildings. Note the plaque on the Dun Cow relating to the fish and chip lunch between President Bush and PM Tony Blair here. The fine church of St Edmund dominates the main street and also dates from the 13th Century. Walk past the church and at the t-junction cross the road and through the passageway and yard of the Hardwick Arms Hotel to reach a gate into a large field. Here there are two choices. You can head west across the pasture to reach the A177, which is crossed to enter the Country Park by the old entrance or you can go south-west across the pasture and use the underpass of the A177 to arrive back at the car park.
Some of the information on this walk has been taken from “Exploring the Countryside between Sedgefield and Bishop Middleham” produced jointly by Sedgefield Borough and Durham County Council and a 3 mile circular walk round Bishop Middleham from Groundwork East Durham. Both I believe are now out of print but thanks to the people who originally produced these. This is a fine walk and hopefully the leaflets will be updated and produced again in future.