Local Walks in County Durham
Filed under: OtherAs a general rule I do not put walks on the website if they have been covered by a Guide Book. However whilst some guide books can be difficult to be aware of and have little publicity, there are others which are only found if you are on the territory. These two sets of walks fall into this category and the purpose of this entry is to give walkers the opportunity of reading details of the walks before they go to the area.
The first one is a set of walks around the very attractive large village of Wolsingham in Weardale. There is rarely a month goes by that I do not spend some time in Wolsingham as the surrounding countryside is top class and full of interest. Wolsingham Wayfarers have been around for about twenty years and they have produced six leaflets of walks varying in length form about 2 miles to about 13 miles. Each walk has a different agenda in different terrain and the walks have all been well constructed. In the last three years the leaflets have been updated. The combination of the clear maps and route descriptions make route-finding simple, although it is my policy to always have the relevant OS map(s) available. For those from further afield I can warmly recommend that you visit Wolsingham and Weardale which has all the facilities that you may require and keep an eye out for the spotted flycatchers which are found hereabouts. The website will give you any other information that you may require.
Wolsingham Market Place
Shincliffe is an attractive village which is split into two separate villages. The old village is close to the River Wear, whilst High Shincliffe is about half a mile to the south along the A177. There is a lot of heritage in both villages. The Parish Paths partnership which is funded by Durham County Council have produced a leaflet with more than adequate route descriptions which contain four walks starting from Shincliffe village and one walk starting from High Shincliffe at the north end of the village, where there is good parking. These walks are a lesser distance to the Wolsingham walks. To obtain the leaflet it will be necessary to Google ‘Shincliffe Walks’. For those who wish to start in Durham city, this will add about five miles to the walks by following the River Wear to give a walk of about eight miles and be time well spent!
Springtime in Low Shincliffe
The Pannierman Way, Cold Moor and Urra Moor
Filed under: OtherDistance: 10 miles (with some steep climbs)
Start: Kirkby in Cleveland (GR 542042)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer OL26 – North York Moors Western Area
It was in early November 2011 that George Howe asked if we had walked on the Pannierman Way out of Kirkby in Cleveland and received a negative response from the seven of us. Being an anorak on pack horse bridges my interest level was high and after a period of three weeks (during which we had other committments) a day was planned for George to show us his route. Knowing that George always searches out lesser known paths and quirky places we were keen to have a look at his route. The walk starts near Kirkby in Cleveland and a look at the relevant North York Moors OL Map 26 showed this to be just to the west of Great Broughton. Closer examination showed a Pannierman Lane name for part of the A172 leading out of Nunthorpe and an extrapolation of this route after leaving Stokesley leads down a minor road to Kirkby.
The inspiration to George was an article in I believe ‘The Dalesman’ magazine (always a good read) which stated that an ancient paved footpath had recently been revealed climbing up from Kirkby onto the Cleveland ridge where it crossed the Cleveland Way and headed south. The catalyst for this discovery and the work that followed is due to the efforts of the Kirkby, Great Broughton and Ingleby Greenhow Local History Club. Their work and activities are well documented on their website and the group believe that the path was built by the lay brothers of Rievaulx Abbey.
Anyone who walks these hills cannot fail to be struck by the host of ancient tracks, earthworks and crosses all dating from both the distant and more recent past and many books have been written on the subject. As well as this several walks have been devised which visit many of the sites. The more recent landscape features go back two centuries where the spoil heaps are often all that is left of the extensive mining which took place hereabouts. The tracks and crosses are a different matter all together and many of them are medieval and even older. Many of these are pack horse routes similar to those in the South Pennines and Calderdale where they were often paved to facilitate easier access. The local group uncovered evidence that their route was paved and were fortunate to get the Royal Dragoon Guards to clear the route and the associated ditch and expose a long line of flags leading upwards to the ridge. Christopher Evans who has written “Trods of the North York Moors” published by the Scarborough Archaeological Society believes that this route was used to carry fish from the Tees into the hinterland and to Rievaulx, which concurs with the local group. Another cargo was probably salt from Teesmouth, then a pristine marsh area, and other salt routes from Teesmouth spread out in the area. Search the map for Salters Way and you are almost certainly on an old route. There is even a pack horse bridge on a route at Ketton just to the north of Darlington. On old maps the Pannierman Way is marked as a bridleway to Bilsdale and indeed a closer look at the area does indicate that this route was probably the easiest way over the Cleveland Hills.
Further news from the Local History Group shows a visit from personnel from Natural England as they believe the route should be listed and therefore receive better protection and in my view this is essential as there is already evidence of damage caused by motorised vehicles. Whether these are in the normal activity of sheep farming or from illegal motorcycles l cannot say.
Kirkby Bank Trod
The walk starts at the end of the lane to the south of Kirkby at Toft Hill, about one mile to the south at GR 542042. The OS map which l have was published in 1995 and the route is shown as a dotted line but it has since been altered to a permissive route. The flags are all exposed and the scenery here is very attractive when heading south and then twisting up through some old mineworkings to eventually emerge onto the Cleveland Way beside the corner of Broughton Wood at GR 546034. It is now straight ahead on the clear track and after three stiles you reach the open moor on Cold Moor at GR 552024. The right of way on the path has disappeared and is in the heather but there is a clear track nearby to the Three Howes. The valley to the right is the little known Raisdale.
Heading south on Cold Moor, the track forks beyond Three Howes
Just after the Three Howes there is a split in the track near a tumuli and the one to the left is taken, heading gradually downhill in a south-east direction, where it picks up the true route at GR 555101. It is now steeper downhill to Cold Moor Lane with a plantation on your left. Ignore the first path on your left and take the second down to Seave Green. Note the superb sloes on the overgrown hedge on your left before arriving in to Bilsdale and the B1257 Stokesley to Helmsley road where there is a welcoming seat at Seave Green.
The route is straight across on the access road to East Bank farm (which is a steady climb) and you pass behind the farm to continue up to East Bank Plantation. Continue upwards and nearing the top the gradient is eased by the path cutting across the slope. Near the top where you emerge from the wood are substantial earthworks heading north all the way to Urra Moor. The entry to the bridleway is very wet and tussocky and it is easier to continue upwards a further 100 yards to the broad track on the level ground which is taken north towards Urra Moor. This is a good place for lunch with views down Bilsdale and across to Cold Fell. This track soon comes to a t-junction and you then drop down to the bridleway along the earthworks near Medd Crag. The track to the east goes up to Round Hill on Urra Moor, which is the highest place in the North Yorkshire Moors and is on the Cleveland way which would make a longer walk if you feel fit.
Urra viewed from Urra Moor
Our route today continues along the bridleway to a dip where there is a waymark leading downhill at GR575019. This is a steep track and after passing through spoil heaps it reaches a substantial house at Urra and tarmac. Go right and where the road goes left and downhill at Urra farmhouse look for a difficult stile on the right. This serves two paths and the one we want is the one heading north-west, diagonally across two fields and then down over a stream by a footbridge and a short climb back up to the B1257. This is crossed immediately and a very stiff climb up through the trees is met. Keep a little to the right and not up the minor valley until you reach a marker stone where the semblance of an old path is met. The gradient eases to a stile which is crossed into a field which always has crops in it. Look for the path through the crops to reach a concrete lane via a stile. The landowner here has planted many fine trees including a tulip tree. Go right for a short distance to a gate where a path is taken on the left.
The Wainstones on Cold Moor
On our visit the view of Hasty Bank farm was obscured by the crops and the path has been diverted here to bypass the farmhouse. The path passes Garfitts and then drops down to a very wet section over a small stream and heads north-west to join the Cleveland Way at GR 557035. If you keep up towards the wood after Garfitts you can stay on higher but much drier terrain. There are good views of the Wainstones on your right where there are carved ancient stones. You cross the Cleveland Way which climbs westwards back up the northern end of Cold Moor and instead continue in the same direction you have been walking to a gate and the edge of Broughton Plantation. Just to the left is the forestry road heading slowly downhill in a north-east direction. After about 250 yards look out for some steep steps heading downhill and take these to join another forest road near to a junction which is waymarked to either Clay Bank or Great Broughton. Take the Broughton direction and arrive at a tarmac road at GR 556043 at the head of a road leading to Great Broughton. From here it is one mile back to the start by taking the bridleway on your left passing by Huntons Folly and Solomons Porch.
Grateful thanks to George for this fine route and special thanks to the Kirkby, Great Broughton and Ingleby Greenhow Group and their Chairman Geoff Taylor for all their work on this and other projects! The day had an additional surprise at the end as the Black Swan at Kirkby was surprisingly open at 4.30pm on a winter Wednesday and Farmers Blonde and Copper Dragon were enjoyed as well as large mugs of coffee!
Walking Round in Circles
Filed under: OtherMany years ago whilst walking on the moors to the north of Blanchland we found ourselves in a very dense fog. The major objective of the walk was to visit the black headed gull colony on Cow Byers Fell. This was duly done and we got very close to the nests before being bombarded by the agitated birds as the scout birds, if they were even in the air, had been unable to pick us up in the fog.
After this we took a compass bearing north and proceeded to head in that direction ,without any further consultation of the compass, fully anticipating to emerge at the side of Slaley Forest which hereabouts runs in a broadly West to East direction for over two miles. After about three quarters of an hour we discovered what we thought was another colony but to our surprise had walked around in a complete circle and arrived back at the original colony! We had heard, like most of us, that when lost people tend to walk round in circles and we therefore took out our compass and walked on a north bearing (this time keeping an eye on the compass!) until we reached Slaley Forest, turned west along the forest edge and descended into Devils Water where there was some limited visibility.
In an article in an issue of “Strider”, which is the journal of the Long Distance Walkers Association, in mentioned that walking in circles is natural. A group based at the Max Planck Institute at Tubingen in Germany recently carried out a study into this phenomenon. The researchers used GPS to track peoples routes both in a large forest and in the Sahara Desert. Whilst walkers trying to keep a constant direction were able to follow a fairly straight course if the sun was visible they tended to walk round in circles if they could not see the sun or any other distinct landmark. They also observed walkers trying to go in a straight line when blindfolded and found that they walked in surprisingly small circles, often in a diameter of less than 20 metres (yes, twenty!). The paper in “Current Biology” suggests that walking in circles is a result of accumulating noise in the sensorimotor system.
The problem is of course resolved by always having your compass with you and using it continually if there is poor visibility and no known landmarks. Some might even add, do not walk with noisy people and l wonder who they might be!
A Different Walk from Rothbury
Filed under: OtherDistance: 11 miles
Start: Rothbury, Northumberland (GR 058016)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer OL42 – Kielder Water. Bellingham and Simonside Hills
A bright late November day tempted us to go into the hills in the Coquet Valley for a change. Most walkers going out of Rothbury make for the high ground of the Simonside Ridge to the south or the well known terrace walk to the north but on driving into Rothbury from Weldon Bridge the idea was mentioned to go to a quieter area downriver from Rothbury on the south bank. It was over a year since any of us had set foot in that region.
From Rothbury proceed down to the river which is crossed on the roadbridge and the B6342 is taken up the hill towards Scots Gap. After about 300 yards take Mill Lane which leads off to the left and soon leaves the houses behind. It is level going looking down to the Coquet and in the early stage the small industrial estate which was formerly the site of the railway station which served Rothbury and terminated there. We shall meet this line in several places in the first half of the walk. It was opened in 1869 by the Northumberland Central Railway and was supposed to go from Scots Gap to Ford near Wooler where it would link with another line at Ford which went to Berwick. Due to a lack of funds however it never went further than the first stage to Rothbury and in 1952 it closed to passenger traffic. The final end came in 1963 when it was closed altogether and now only the trackbed survives in some places. What a pity that Northumberland County Council showed so little imagination in not buying the track bed (which they were offered) along with other Northumberland closed lines to convert into a a superb network of bridleways, through beautful country, which could now be generating income for rural communities.
River Coquet from the Stepping Stones in Rothbury
The lane changes to a path at Wagtail Farm where the lane and the railway are crossed and we continue descending down towards the river. The trees opposite look particularly good in Autumn and are part of the Cragside Country Park. The path now enters an old wood where the way is marked by a combination of signs and yellow tape round trees which should be followed as it is quite wet underfoot off the track. The path eventually starts climbing uphill towards the end of the wood to arrive at a wall which was alongside the old railway line. The track here has been through a rock cutting with an old footbridge over. At a level crossing soon after we leave the line to pass by a derelict cottage called Craghead. The occupants obviously had great difficulty in getting large furniture away when they left as, at the time of writing, there is still an old piano and kitchen equipment left behind from a bygone age!
West Raw farm seen from St Oswald’s Way
From Craghead a clear track heads east through the fields to West Raw where tarmac is reached. Here head south to Butterknowes and its small lake and then a little further to East Raw. In front of you are two footpaths and the one on the right is taken (signposted ‘The Lee Head’) to head straight down the field towards the wood, where you cross a stile to head downhill to the Forest Burn. This is crossed by a footbridge and a path taken up the south bank through a pleasant conifer forest where there are also beech trees. Heading upstream you cross a field before going back into the forest where there is currently wood being harvested. After about 500 yards it is necessary to cross the river which can be a bit tricky. In the summer the river can be easily crossed but on this occasion it was necessary for us to ‘plodge’ (in English wade) through water about one foot deep. Be warned and pick a dry spell if you object to getting wet feet. A further river crossing soon after is much easier and the path then reaches a road where there is a ford for vehicles and a footbridge for walkers and cyclists.
The footbridge is crossed and the bridleway on the left taken slightly uphill to The Lonning which is probably an OS spelling mistake as the sign for the house is the The Lonnen. Pass in front of the two houses and take their access road west. This arrives soon at the access road to The Crook which is down to the left and we continue west passing a house on the site of the railway crossing where an old LNER gate survives. At the B6342 turn left for 100 yards and then right to Blagdonburn Farm where you are guided through the farm buildings on your right. Then follow the track west to the fence at the end of the first field. In reasonable visibility look north-west for a house called Spylaw and a small wood about one mile away. Otherwise set a north-west bearing. It is a steady plod upwards mainly on good grass with over 100 metres (325 feet) of ascent up to the wood. There is a path then heading north-east which reaches the car park at Lordenshaw after one mile but a preferred way is to follow a good track which also heads north-east a little further east, crosses over the top of Grain Sike to arrive at the road at GR 056983 just to the edge of a wood.
Large sandstone outcrop at North Lordenshaw
It is now a short walk uphill on the road passing the entrance to Lordenshaw farm on your right to arrive at the car park for the ascent of the Simonsides. The last two miles have glorious scenery and the panorama continues on the route north ahead to the stones with the cup and ring markings. One is close to you on the left on reaching the top. The paths here are lovely close cropped turf which is a joy to walk on. It is all downhill now for about 120 metres (400ft) to Whittondean, where their access track is taken to a t-junction where you turn right down to Whitton. At the road turn right for a few yards to where the road turns right at a bend and go towards the house where you will find the foothpath which exits into a large field by a kissing gate. Again it is north and downhill with Rothbury at your feet, to a stile where you then take a road downhill to the river. If you are going back into the town or want the riverside car park turn left for a short distance, cross the Coquet by the footbridge and reach the main street by the lane in front of you.
Milkwellburn Wood Nature Reserve, Chopwell Woods and The Derwent Valley
Filed under: County Durham BorderDistance: 10-11 miles
Map: OS Explorer 307 Consett and Derwent Reservoir
Start: Ebchester Station Picnic Site (GR NZ 107548)
Click to View Start Position on Google Maps
This walk starts at Ebchester Station which has good parking facilities and is on the Derwent Walk. Plenty has been written about the Derwent Walk on other walk descriptions but suffice to say that the line opened in 1867 and was closed in 1962. Ebchester Station itself closed on 21/9/1953. The line had reached its peak around 1914 when it carried half a million passengers annually but the combination of improved roads and the fact that the line had to achieve considerable height to reach Consett meant that the line left the valley bottom (and hence much of the local population) led to a big reduction in passenger numbers.
We start by walking north down a gradual descent and passing a small dene and wood on your right which comes down from the housing estate called The Dene. This is a good spot to see roe deer and also I have seen jay here in the past. At the bottom of the slope there is a crossing of paths with one linking Ebchester to Medomsley and we take this downhill to reach Ebchester down a hedged lane. There is an option halfway down to leave this and follow the clear path down the field although this is not shown as a right of way. Whichever way you choose you soon arrive at the church of St Ebba. Much of this was built utilising the stone from the nearby fort of Vindomara hidden behind the houses opposite. The church is possibly pre 1066 but is probably early Norman and was substantially restored in1878. It retains the leper window which allowed those inflicted to watch the service (and hopefully to hear the service) without coming into contact with the congregation. Ebba was the daughter of Aethelfrith who was the first king of Northumbria. The church organ was made by the famous manufacturers Harrisons of Durham who made organs in Durham City for many cathedrals and now operate from Langley Park near Durham.
St Ebba’s Church in Ebchester
After the demise of the Romans the area became dense forest rising upward from the River Derwent and later, in the time of Bishop Pudsey, it was known as the place of the Anchorites who were hermits. Ebchester is different from the other forts on Dere Street in that the modern settlement is built over the fort compared to Lanchester and Corbridge where the fort is outside the village.
You now descend to the main road which is crossed and currently turn slightly to the right to an open space where there is an information board on Roman Heritage. This is subject to a footpath diversion slightly to the south of the current route which has not yet been completed. Walk down the steps to join a lane where you turn right to reach the River Derwent at a good footbridge. This replaced stepping stones some time ago which were dangerous after heavy rainfall. The remains of them can be seen a shade downstream. At the far side there are two paths one of which heads roughly north across the field to Broad Oak Farm. The other alongside the river was created in 2010 as a public right of way following a claim by Mr Marston (a resident of Blackhall Mill) and others under Section 31 of the Highways Act of 1980. This states that “where a way other than a way of such a character that use of it could not give rise at common law to any presumption of dedication, has been actually enjoyed by the public, as of right and without interruption for a period of 20 years, the way is deemed to have been dedicated as a highway unless there is sufficient evidence that the landowner demonstrated a lack of any intention during this period to dedicate the route. The 20 year period applies retrospectively from the date at which the right of to use the way was brought into question.” Mr Marston had much support from locals who confirmed this and the path was made into a right of way in 2010 by the Inspector from DEFRA. It is indeed an important path as it goes alongside the river which is particularly attractive hereabouts.
The River Derwent at Blackhall Mill
The River Derwent is the best otter river in northern England and also has the highest number of dippers measured by the numbers over a specific distance. You rarely fail to see dippers on this stretch and there are regular kingfisher sightings and occasional goldeneye. The path follows the river down to Blackhall Mill utilising the good quality gates en route, having been joined by a footpath from Broad Oak just prior to reaching the houses and having crossed Milkwellburn over a bridge.At Blackhall Mill take the unsurfaced road leading south for a short distance and then heading north-west to reach the entrance to the reserve at GR NZ 114570. This reserve is owned and managed by the Durham Wildlife Trust as it is in Gateshead, the Milkwell Burn being the boundary between Gateshead and Northumberland to where it joins the River Derwent.
The Durham Wildlife Trust operates within the boundaries of the old County Durham pre 1974. Milkwellburn Wood is the DWT’s largest woodland and is a long-term project which is undertaking a process known as PAWS restoration. This is known fully as Plantation on an Ancient Woodland Site and the aim is to gradually remove the conifers so that the native woodland can establish across the site dramatically improving the area for wildlife. The wood is dominated by oak and ash with locally rare small leafed lime and an understory of hazel, holly which is very prevalent throughout the Derwent valley and honeysuckle. The most dramatic change the restoration process triggers is the regeneration of ground flora as the conifers are removed and light can once again reach the woodland floor. The ground flora abounds including greater woodrush, primrose, bluebell, dogs mercury, and many ferns such as hares tongue and lady fern. In other parts of the reserve there are sandier soils and indeed this is evident in the nearby Broad Oak Quarry nearby to the south and here a heathland community develops which is now comparatively rare with bilberry and common cow wheat. There are also areas of alder woodland where you might be lucky and spot a siskin. Other birds which may be seen are tawny owis, sparrow hawks, garden and willow warblers, blackcaps, and woodcc;ck. On the recent visit both buzzard and red kite were seen gliding overhead.
The main track in Milkwellburn wood
There are numerous tracks within the wood which will hopefully be marked up more in future and also a public path to Newhouse Farm. Other entries to the reserve are at Chopwell (Whinny Leas at NZ 112578) from South View and Whittonstall Road at GR NZ113583. It is difficult currently to give easy directions in this wood but basically as long as you tend towards Newhouse Farm you will find a route that will exit you at one of the other entrances or it is better if you can keep going to reach the course of the old waggon way which runs along to the north-west of the wood at the top and can be reached at GR 104585 where there is an exit from the wood. Access is allowed throughout the wood.
Here you proceed to your right along the waggon way with Ashtree Farm high up on your left and arrive at a place with a newly planted wood on your right and a good path leading down to the houses at Chopwell. Turn left at the first road which curves round to join the main road through Chopwell at a tight bend. Here join this road and go left past a church. Turn right at the next bend and go downhill passing a school on your right. The tarmac path continues downhill towards Chopwell Woods passing a large open park on your left. There is a clear entrance to the woods next to the houses. The path is then followed into the wood for a distance of about 500 metres and reaches an internal road at a junction where the road heads east downhill to Carr House. Take this route where there is a burn on your right and eventually exit the wood to arrive at Armondside just outside the wood.
Derwentcote Steel Furnace
Here turn right towards Backhall Mill to arrive at the road bridge which is crossed. Take the footpath immediately on your left which leads to Derwentcote Farm. At the farm gate leave the path leading up to the A694 and double-back along a good route alongside a paddock to reach Derwentcote Foundry. This path was subject to a diversion a while back due to a landslip but the path has now been well restored and is no problem. The foundry was built in the 18th Century and is the earliest and most complete steel making furnace to have survived. It has been restored by English Heritage and is open to the public. In fact Channel 4’s Time Team featured the site on an episode which can be viewed here on YouTube. On reaching the A694 you go through the Derwentcote car park and follow the track through Side Wood back to the Derwent Walk. It is now an easy two mile walk back to the start at Ebchester Station to complete a ten mile walk.
For those wanting a longer walk there is a way through Chopwell Woods by following the path from the crossroads to Carr House to Chopwell Wood House and taking the clear path from there to the south-east corner at GR NZ143574 which leads out to Lintzford. Here the Derwent Walk can be picked up by going uphill through the mill on the track to Lintz Station adding about two miles on the walk assuming you pick your way through the woods correctly. Alternatively, there is a pleasant different start to the walk which goes along the new paths reopened about 2010 and shown on my Border Walks, Medomsley Circular on New Tracks This adds about a mile onto the walk , about 40 minutes as it is slow, but gives superb views over the Derwent Valley and to both the Durham moors and Northumberland.