1
Dec
2009
Tunstall Reservoir and Wolsingham Moor
Filed under: OtherApprox. Distance/Time: 10 miles
Start: Demesne Mill Picnic Area on the B6296 at Wolsingham (GG NZ 077373)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer OL31 – North Pennines: Teesdale & Weardale
Some of this walk is taken from a leaflet produced by Wolsingham Wayfarers in conjunction with Durham Country Council Parish Paths Partnership Scheme, and Natural England which was formerly The Countryside Commission. Wolsingham Wayfarers are an independent volunteer group dedicated to monitoring and where possible caring for and improving the designated footpaths of the area. There are more than 150 footpaths in Wolsingham and there is a map of all the definitive footpaths on the wall of the Town Hall in the Market Place opposite the Post Office. There is a series of leaflets which aim is to get you out on the footpaths and to use your map to walk on further paths not covered by the leaflets, or to adapt existing described routes to your own convenience. They can be purchased from the Dales Centre at Stanhope and other tourist offices in the area. They represent good value to walkers who prefer to walk in smaller groups.
The walk starts at Demesne Mill picnic area and the word ‘demesne’ means the land of a medieval manor which was retained by the lord. Indeed remains of the old mill walls can be seen in the corner. The new houses passed on the way into the site are on the site of St Annes RC Convent and School, sold quite recently for housing. The church of St Thomas of Canterbury to the south-west over the field is the only Roman Catholic church in Weardale, the area having strong Wesleyan chapel associations which are very evident throughout the dale.
We leave the site by Waskerley Beck, which flows out from our objective of Tunstall Reservoir, and cross a field at the end of which are the remains of of the old mill race which brought water more than 500 metres from a weir across the beck to power the mill and grinding stones. On the way there are a series of small waterfalls called The Sills. Continuing alongside the beck we now cross a bridge over Thornhope Beck called Jack Walker bridge. We now pick up a path heading north-west to the road to Tunstall. This is the Long Dyke which runs up the hill to arrive at Park Wall which is a ruined farmhouse. This is the route taken on previous visits but due to the wet weather over the last six months we will follow the route from the leaflet. At this point we are crossing over a side valley of the Wear which was formerly a park belonging to the Bishop of Durham. Fawnlees Hall (which we pass) and Bishop Oak on the roadside have foundations going back to that period. We continue past Middle Fawlees but ignore the track to High Fawlees to go through Park Wall Plantation and then turn right to Park Wall and over a stone stile. This wall is part of the old boundary of the Bishops Deer Park dating back to 1274. This old building was thatched, similar to the building at Levy Pool on the Pennine Way north of Bowes over Deepdale Beck. You are now at an altitude of 300 metres (1000ft) and your efforts are rewarded with fine views of the Reservoir to the north. A zig-zag path takes us past Jofless Cottage to Jofless Farm and passing the farm to the right-hand side we take a footpath on the left and gradually descend on the path through Machine Gill Wood to arrive on the road near to the dam.
Tunstall Reservoir was built in 1879 by The Weardale and Shildon Water Company to serve the Durham Coalfield towns which were expanding rapidly at that time. The area is very attractive and there is a good blend of deciduous trees and conifers which give a constantly changing picture throughout the year. We follow the road north to the picnic site and just after it we can leave the road to take up the lakeside path which emerges back on the road at the head of the lake. The scenery here, from certain angles, can be very reminiscent of the Lake District. The feeder stream here goes through a wetland Nature Reserve and is a good place to observe waders such as snipe, whilst the main lake has geese (mainly Canada) and duck. From time to time rarities turn up here.
We now have a bad weather alternative path here down the side of the lake south through Backstone Bank Wood which is a fine oak wood and a SSSI (see notes at end for further details of this route)*. However it is time for the second climb of the day back to the 300 metre height, to reach the old railway near to Salters Gate. As seen on the Ketton Walk this was on the site of a pack horse route for salt transportation. The railway line, now a fine walkway, ran from Crook and gradually climbed up to the Waskerley Line which it joined and hence reached Consett. This line was opened on 16th May 1845 by the Stockton to Darlington Railway and gained its height via the Sunniside Incline and Tow Law. It was built on behalf of the Derwent Iron Company and at the time there was no viaduct at Hownes Gill. In 1859 the situation changed when Hownes Gill was built and trains could go from Crook to Consett via Burnhill Junction just to the north of where you have joined the line. The line eventually closed to passengers in 1939 whilst the Waskerley line lasted until the 1950s.
The line is followed south-east to just short of Greenfield Cottage on the A68 and then a path is taken which heads off north-west before turning south-west on open moorland, to eventually arrive at a disused quarry at GR088402. This is open access land but here we are on a Right of Way (ROW). Below you can be seen Redmires Farm which is passed before turning right to pick up the track which becomes surfaced to Castle Hills. Enjoying the views we reach the B6296 at Redgate Head and start the descent to Wolsingham leaving the road to continue past Redgate Hall and back into Wolsingham.
* The lakeside route back through Backstone Wood passes Backstone Farm, where height is gained, goes south on a contour along the hill with super views of the valley to arrive at Baal Hill House. The origins of this name are varied. There is another Baal Hill to the south of Ragpath Wood (owned by the Woodland Trust) south of Esh and the name has been associated with pagan gods and the Middle East. However the pamphlet states that the name is derived from an ancient lead smelting technique of boling (boiling) which separated the lead from its impurities. Swallow holes or baals were dug on high sloping ground exposed to westerly winds and this enabled the charcoal to be burned at a higher temperature, thereby making the operation more efficient. The process ceased in the 15th Century but looking at the situation of both the Baal Houses this appears to be a more likely derivation. However Iain Brown in his excellent book “The North Pennines” (Summary House Publications) states that Baal Hill House was the home of the baliff of the hunting park and the house has the remains of an advanced bastle design including a vaulted basement.
