10
May
2021
A Different Walk from Rothbury
Filed under: OtherDistance: 11 miles
Start: Rothbury, Northumberland (GR 058016)
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer OL42 – Kielder Water. Bellingham and Simonside Hills
A bright late November day tempted us to go into the hills in the Coquet Valley for a change. Most walkers going out of Rothbury make for the high ground of the Simonside Ridge to the south or the well known terrace walk to the north but on driving into Rothbury from Weldon Bridge the idea was mentioned to go to a quieter area downriver from Rothbury on the south bank. It was over a year since any of us had set foot in that region.
From Rothbury proceed down to the river which is crossed on the roadbridge and the B6342 is taken up the hill towards Scots Gap. After about 300 yards take Mill Lane which leads off to the left and soon leaves the houses behind. It is level going looking down to the Coquet and in the early stage the small industrial estate which was formerly the site of the railway station which served Rothbury and terminated there. We shall meet this line in several places in the first half of the walk. It was opened in 1869 by the Northumberland Central Railway and was supposed to go from Scots Gap to Ford near Wooler where it would link with another line at Ford which went to Berwick. Due to a lack of funds however it never went further than the first stage to Rothbury and in 1952 it closed to passenger traffic. The final end came in 1963 when it was closed altogether and now only the trackbed survives in some places. What a pity that Northumberland County Council showed so little imagination in not buying the track bed (which they were offered) along with other Northumberland closed lines to convert into a a superb network of bridleways, through beautful country, which could now be generating income for rural communities.
River Coquet from the Stepping Stones in Rothbury
Photograph by Stanley Howe / CC BY-SA 2.0
The lane changes to a path at Wagtail Farm where the lane and the railway are crossed and we continue descending down towards the river. The trees opposite look particularly good in Autumn and are part of the Cragside Country Park. The path now enters an old wood where the way is marked by a combination of signs and yellow tape round trees which should be followed as it is quite wet underfoot off the track. The path eventually starts climbing uphill towards the end of the wood to arrive at a wall which was alongside the old railway line. The track here has been through a rock cutting with an old footbridge over. At a level crossing soon after we leave the line to pass by a derelict cottage called Craghead. The occupants obviously had great difficulty in getting large furniture away when they left as, at the time of writing, there is still an old piano and kitchen equipment left behind from a bygone age!
West Raw farm seen from St Oswald’s Way
Photograph by Paul Franks / CC BY-SA 2.0
From Craghead a clear track heads east through the fields to West Raw where tarmac is reached. Here head south to Butterknowes and its small lake and then a little further to East Raw. In front of you are two footpaths and the one on the right is taken (signposted ‘The Lee Head’) to head straight down the field towards the wood, where you cross a stile to head downhill to the Forest Burn. This is crossed by a footbridge and a path taken up the south bank through a pleasant conifer forest where there are also beech trees. Heading upstream you cross a field before going back into the forest where there is currently wood being harvested. After about 500 yards it is necessary to cross the river which can be a bit tricky. In the summer the river can be easily crossed but on this occasion it was necessary for us to ‘plodge’ (in English wade) through water about one foot deep. Be warned and pick a dry spell if you object to getting wet feet. A further river crossing soon after is much easier and the path then reaches a road where there is a ford for vehicles and a footbridge for walkers and cyclists.
The footbridge is crossed and the bridleway on the left taken slightly uphill to The Lonning which is probably an OS spelling mistake as the sign for the house is the The Lonnen. Pass in front of the two houses and take their access road west. This arrives soon at the access road to The Crook which is down to the left and we continue west passing a house on the site of the railway crossing where an old LNER gate survives. At the B6342 turn left for 100 yards and then right to Blagdonburn Farm where you are guided through the farm buildings on your right. Then follow the track west to the fence at the end of the first field. In reasonable visibility look north-west for a house called Spylaw and a small wood about one mile away. Otherwise set a north-west bearing. It is a steady plod upwards mainly on good grass with over 100 metres (325 feet) of ascent up to the wood. There is a path then heading north-east which reaches the car park at Lordenshaw after one mile but a preferred way is to follow a good track which also heads north-east a little further east, crosses over the top of Grain Sike to arrive at the road at GR 056983 just to the edge of a wood.
Large sandstone outcrop at North Lordenshaw
Photograph by Andrew Curtis / CC BY-SA 2.0
It is now a short walk uphill on the road passing the entrance to Lordenshaw farm on your right to arrive at the car park for the ascent of the Simonsides. The last two miles have glorious scenery and the panorama continues on the route north ahead to the stones with the cup and ring markings. One is close to you on the left on reaching the top. The paths here are lovely close cropped turf which is a joy to walk on. It is all downhill now for about 120 metres (400ft) to Whittondean, where their access track is taken to a t-junction where you turn right down to Whitton. At the road turn right for a few yards to where the road turns right at a bend and go towards the house where you will find the foothpath which exits into a large field by a kissing gate. Again it is north and downhill with Rothbury at your feet, to a stile where you then take a road downhill to the river. If you are going back into the town or want the riverside car park turn left for a short distance, cross the Coquet by the footbridge and reach the main street by the lane in front of you.