10
May
2019
Isaac’s Tea Trail – What a Gem!
Filed under: OtherAs is my normal practice I do not put walks on this website when there is a reliable and informative book on the walk and the rule is applicable here. However I must start with a confession that despite having walked in the north country for sixty years and also completed over thirty long distance and named walks and having a cottage on the western edge of the North Pennines as well as living in sight of the eastern edge of the North Pennines I had never walked this 37 mile walk before!
We had crossed or used parts of it over the years and when Clive, one of our six strong walking group, suggested walking this Trail we enthusiastically took up his suggestion. It saved us having to ponder over where to go for a few weeks!
The original plan had been The Inn Way for the Yorkshire Dales but when we had failed to find a shop selling the guide on the two days prior to the start of that walk (and Clive had walked the route at the Haltwhistle Walking Festival) we made a quick change of plan.
It must be said that impressions of any walk can depend on weather conditions, company and the time of the year. On this walk all three were met with superb dry days and good conditions underfoot but also to know that we were privileged to be in such an area in springtime. The peewits, curlew, golden plover and oystercatchers were all around and calling to each other which created a very musical background. The route is a broadly circular walk following and linking the places that Isaac Holden had taken whilst selling tea to the local inhabitants in the early 19th Century. As a consequence the route passes through Allendale town, Alston, Nenthead and the valleys of the East Allen, West Allen and the Nent Valley plus a host of upland farms most of which could be used as film sets.
Isaac started working life in the lead mines before he opened a grocers shop with his wife in Allendale. Incidentally, in the period we were doing this walk Allendale was the runner-up behind York as the best place to live in the north based on many different factors. He took to walking the area selling tea, which had not long been readily available, whilst his wife looked after the shop. The originator of the walking route was Roger Morris (nearly twenty years ago) and he has published a book called “Isaac’s Tea Trail” (ISBN number 9780956012210) which is available in shops in the area or on the web.
Chatting in the pub after the walk in April 2019 we all agreed that this walk was easily the best waymarked walk that we had done anywhere and great credit is due to the Allenheads Trust who are aided by Northumberland County Council, the LDWA, Cumbria County Council Rights of Way Officers and the Hexham Group of the Rambler’s Association for the work that they have all done. The stiles were in good repair and the posts over from near Sinderhope to Nenthead were well placed so that in fair weather you always had your direction. There is also the added interest for some walkers who are interested in the relics of the lead mining industry. This walk is only 40 minutes drive from the Hadrians Wall National Trail and it is feasible to include a section of this from Greenhead to Chollerford (arguably the best section) where the contrast between the wide open quiet Isaac’s Tea Trail makes a super antidote to the crowds on Hadrians Wall. I can warmly recommend this walk and suggest you put this walk on your to-do list and do not leave it as long as l did!
Hello Bill,
Many thanks for kind and useful comments. Ian at Ninebanks youth hostel was in touch to let me know you had been walking the trail. Rightly, you highlight difficulties in obtaining the trail guide. It is not for want of trying to extend the number of sales outlets. Most are sold through Walking Pages Ltd down in Gloucestershire !
My guess is the short answer of why places no matter how attractive remain “hidden” is for good reasons. Simply, there is not the wherewithal (or even the wish) to make them better known. Far easier to hit visitor targets from “hot spots” with supporting amenities on hand. Perhaps, not such a bad thing as this leaves special places to be discovered and enjoyed. However, when you find a good trail, it is far better to help share the news.
Thank you for doing just that, excellent website – keep up the good work.
Roger
Walkers doing the trail may like to call in at Isaac’s hearse house near Ninebanks Church. It’s a place to stop for bait and there’s interpretative information about Isaac Holden and the trail. There’s also a visitors book to highlight any issues found along the way and simply to leave a record. Such information is always helpful.
Roger