Bill's Walks

Warks Burn and The Pennine Way

Distance: 11.5 miles

Start: Wark Village (GR 860771)

Click to view start position on Google Maps

Map : OS Explorer OL42 – Kielder Water and OS Explorer OL43 – Hadrian’s Wall

On a clear cold day in early October Alan, Clive and myself decided to go to open country where we could step out and also have pleasant views so a decision was made to go onto part of the Pennine Way where none of us had walked for quite a while. I first walked this section as far back as 1972 when the route was new. Parking in Bellingham, we took the bus to Wark (those with two cars will have no problem) in order to eliminate any dangerous road walking. At Wark we headed off west towards Pasture House and before reaching it we took the footpath to Ramshaws Mill, meeting two fellow geordie walkers who like us were wandering about. Ramshaws Mill is a lovely spot on the Warks Burn which is crossed here and we then took the clear track heading south up the hill.

Warks Burn in its gorge at Ramshaws Mill

After ascending a hill you reach a wall and turn right for a short distance before crossing a stile on your left. Cross this and turn right up the wall to the first corner in front of you. Caution as you can make a mistake here! Head south-west passing just to the left on some higher ground to descend to High Moralee. Here you continue west following the north bank of the Gofton Burn to come to the farm of Sheilahaugh where it is necesssary to go south to Pea Hill on the tarmac. Be careful on your direction here as we nearly went in the wrong direction, but the correct way is to go north-west first up and then down to another burn which is crossed on the road bridge. Shortly after take the clear track on your left to Sadbury Hill where you continue west. Note there is another footpath here heading south over Franks Hill which should be ignored.

You now head west keeping to the high terrain over Ground Rigg, following the markers, and at the highest point of 241 metres you can see ahead to a gap in the forest with Ladyhill behind, which is the route of the Pennine Way. This is met almost immediately when you descend the slope in front of you and on joining the Pennine Way you are now turn back towards Bellingham, heading north. A waterfall is marked on the map which is a pleasant surprise. The fall is about 20 feet and surrounded by vegetation, mainly rowan trees.

Continuing north downhill you pass the end of Longlee Rigg (another easy walking route) and descend to cross the Fawleg Sike where there are convenient walls to sit on and have a break. You now go uphill slightly before dropping down to the valley of the Warks Burn where you turn right past a metal barn and then descend to the fine footbridge over the Warks Burn some 40 feet below you. Just about 400 yards upstream here is the “long drop” which is a toilet positioned about 40 feet above the stream! We did not visit it on this walk but if you have time it is worth a detour. A climb up the other side and a turn to north-east brings you to Horneysteads which has been restored since Wainwright wrote his guidebook. Stop here to see the peel tower remains (which the occupants will be pleased to show you) and then it is onwards to The Ash. There has been diversions here recently round to the south of the property which give greater privacy to the occupants, but perhaps another sign would keep you away from the property. Do not pass the houses as you are off route.

At The Ash you head north again alongside the road which is crossed where it turns and proceed to Low Stead above the Blacka Burn. This is a very nice restored set of buildings which Wainwright included in his guide as do others, notably Tony Hopkins. These buildings are bastles from the 16th Century. At Linacres you take their access road east to join the road just north of Hetherington and turn left on this, walking a distance of over half a mile to a t-junction. Crossing straight over it is downhill to the Houxty Burn where the footbridge is a little upstream of the obvious crossing which is a ford. Once over head downstream for a short distance on a clear path alongside the burn and turn left to Shitlington Hall, once called Shotlyngton Hall. Why did they change it?

Shitlington Crags near Bellingham

Turning north shortly after the farm follow the track towards Shitlington Crags, noting the bunkhouse just under the sandstone crags. It is a short climb up to the mast where you turn right on a very good track and before reaching a wood on your left follow the waymarked route over poor ground in a north-east direction. At the top you see Bellingham underneath you and descend to the main road. Here you will see there is a new section of the Pennine Way which continues north off the dangerous road and runs parallel with it to Brown Rigg which is owned by the Forestry Commission. This very a useful diversion from NCC following much effort from the late Tony Jones of the Pennine Way Association makes this walk a lot more pleasant and safer as when you reach the road again there is a tarmac footpath the rest of the way to Bellingham.