Bill's Walks

Stanhope to Rookhope (Weardale Way)

Filed under: Weardale Way

Distance: 13 miles using the Stotfield and minor road
Distance: 15.5 miles using Park Head

Start: Stanhope Market Place (NY 996391)

Click to view start position on Google Maps

Map : OS Explorer 307 – Consett and Derwent Reservoir

The Weardale Way has existed in several forms since its inception over forty years ago in various guises. A route was established in the late 1970s by Alan Earnshaw who was an early member of the DVCR Service. This route was from Killhope Wheel and terminated at Sunny Brow near Willington where he lived. This route involved a substantial amount of moorland walking. Rare copies of the guide he published which he called the Wear Valley Way still exist. This route was 46 miles long and doubled as a walk and a challenge route to be completed in one go. The walk had a formal opening on August 4th 1979 with the ceremony being performed by Roger Smith who was the editor of the Great Outdoors and the late Councillor Bob Pendlebury who subsequently did so much for Weardale and the North Pennines AONB. Indeed the walk was completed by Alan Storey in 7hrs 5 mins on that day.

The next guide was a Dalesman book published in 1964 by Ken Piggin who devised a 78 mile walk from Cowshill to the mouth of the Wear at Roker, a distance of 78 miles and is a natural finish for the walk particularly in view of the major landscape improvements that have been carried out at Sunderland. Ken had previously published books on the Ebor Way, Nidderdale Way and Yoredale Way all published by Dalesman Press, which can still be found on Amazon and sometimes in second hand book shops. This was the route waymarked by DCC and OS Leisure Map 19.

In the mid 1990s a further guide to the Weardale Way, partly sponsored by DCC, was written by Alistair Wallace and is the route shown on current OS maps. It follows Ken Piggins route from Sunderland to Witton le Wear and thereafter concentrates on a lower route which omits Knitsley Fell and the elephant trees, terminating at Wearhead where the river first becomes the River Wear at the confluence of the Burnhope Burn and the Killhope Burn. The idea here was the make the walk an easier walk.

Quite recently the Weardale Way has been altered again reverting back broadly to the Piggin route to include the elephant trees but also to call in at Wolsingham. 2012 saw the publication of another guide to the Weardale Way by Joe Watson from Dun Cow Publishing which covers the route from Killhope to Roker and surely this is the correct and definitive route for the Weardale Way. Publishing techniques and photography advances make this easily the best book that there has been on the Weardale Way. Not only that but the book has much more information on aspects of the route and the places visited and has adequate maps and many interesting photos. This route should be the only one to be waymarked and recorded on OS maps and be promoted by Durham County Council as the Weardale Way is an asset to the county. A final word on publications on the Weardale Way should also mention a publication called ‘Upper Weardale Way’ from Walks of Discovery which has 12 circular walks on the Weardale Way between Bishop Auckland and Cowshill, averaging about 8 miles similar to the Guided Walks arranged by DCC.

Today’s walk starts outside St Thomas church in Stanhope which goes back to Norman times, some parts of which survive in the base of the western tower. The arch of the tower is pointed and is obviously later than Norman. The church also contains some Frosterley marble columns which has been used in different sites worldwide. In the heyday of the lead industry due to the high value of the tithes paid to the rectors for the rights to explore and mine for lead, this church gave the richest living in England. Some of this wealth was used by Bishop Barrington to build schools in the area but the driving force here was to compete with the Methodists and Wesleyans who enjoyed much support in Weardale. Near to the church entrance is the famous fossil tree which was mined on Edmundbyers Moor and later moved to its current location in 1962. Opposite is Stanhope Castle built in 1798 on the site of an old tower. The term ‘hope’ in a place name is Celtic and Norse and means a slope or hollow between hills.

The walk starts by following the Eggleston road B6278 westwards crossing Stanhope Beck and on reaching the 15th Century Stanhope Bridge, proceed westwards on the north bank of the river. The quarry on your right is a rare example of a whinstone quarry in Weardale called Greenfoot Quarry where a band of whinstone called the Little Whin Sill extruded under the limestone and was exploited. It is thought that there is a greater sill at a much greater depth here but this is unproved as no drilling has been done. It is a straightforward walk following the waymarks along the edge of a field and crossing the railway line to proceed through the woods close to the river. This path needs some care as there are boulders around carried downriver by floods. Note the interesting birdlife as kingfishers and heron may be seen on the river as well as goosanders in winter.

The route passes through a caravan site to reach Hag Bridge and here turn right to Eastgate which is a a short distance to the west along the A689. At the bus stop where the Weardale Way heads north up the Rookhope Burn is an unusual object which is a replica of a Roman altar dedicated to Silvanus. The original altar found near here is kept for safekeeping at Durham Universities Museum of Archaeology. Eastgate is so named as it was the East gate to the hunting terrain here. All Saints church on your right was built in 1887. The Weardale Way follows a path north passing Home House and Hole House and is an attractive path high above the burn. After about one mile past Hole House it eventually descends to Brandon Walls Cleugh which is crossed.

The route now passes through woods and is relatively clear as you reach Brandon Walls Lead mine half hidden in the trees. Keep your eyes open for the waymarks. There is quite a bit of information on the web concerning this site which operated in the mid 1800s. Joe Watson gives a good account of how the mine was initially productive as the ore contained a high amount of silver. It is worth noting that the Williamson Process, which was used to separate the silver from the lead, was developed in the North Pennines near Allendale. There was a smithy and processing area on site as well as miners cottages and an overshot waterwheel. Take care in following the path to reach a footbridge over the Rookhope Burn leading to the road to Rookhope which is followed north crossing over Stotfield Burn. You can leave the road when you enter Rookhope after Chapel Row by turning left to Rookhope Working Mens Club (still open) and walking along behind the houses and following the track which arrives at the Rookhope Inn.

Rookhope is an old mining village with a long history and there is evidence that the Romans were active hereabouts. There was a famous skirmish here in 1569. During the Rising of the North, when the local men had been called away to defend Barnard Castle against the pro Catholic rebels, there was a raid on Rookhope by border reivers who stole 6oo sheep. The raiders were intercepted on Nookton Fell and four of the reivers were killed and eleven captured. Such events were not uncommon in the region but this one has remained alive due to the incident being recorded in a 24 verse ballad called the Rookhope Ryde.

There are several routes back to Stanhope from Rookhope with the popular one being an ascent of Boltslaw Incline and following the C2C to Park Head on the B6278, with a choice of routes back to Stanhope down the incline past the site of the Wetherhill Engine Shed. A good way is to descend down Heathery Burn to Stanhope Burn which is then followed down to Stanhope Hall. An entirely different route from Rookhope, emphasising the visual beauty of both the Rookhope Valley and Weardale can also be taken. If you leave Rookhope by following the Weardale Way towards Westgate it is an easy walk along the old railway track towards Smailsburn Farm and at Pry Barn which is where the open access ends at GR941420 cross the stile on your left down towards the burn passing the newly refurbished house to the right to cross the Rookhope Burn by a footbridge and then pass the graveyard to the junction of roads at Stotfield Burn. This minor road is the route used by many C2C cyclists on a very quiet road named route 7.

A series of footpaths through Chestergarth House, Pasture House, and High Brandon on the left give lovely views, although the waymarking round High Brandon needs improving. There is then an option to follow a a further series on the right passing through Ambling Gate, Burnt Walls, Ashy Bank, Spains Field, West Bewdley and Greenhead farm back to the road. All of these old farms from Ambling Gate onwards ,which once were all peoples homes, are now sadly derelict. Arriving at the road at Greenhead you now have a distance of just over a mile to return to Stanhope. However currently the paths from Ambling Gate onwards are somewhat degraded due to damage from livestock, lack of maintenance and use caused by the farms closures and are a minor study in what has happened to hill farming over the years. All of these farms have apparently been derelict for many years and there is currently a blockage between Spains Field and West Bewdley due to what should be a welcome sight where there is some investment in fencing and wall renewal. Notwithstanding this the route is still passable for the average walker and the path was waymarked in the past with stiles in average condition. There is a very well researched book on the subject by Christine Ruskin called “The Disappearing Farms of Weardale” which can be purchased locally and is recommended. One of the farms (which I believe to be Spains Field) has been acquired by Beamish Museum to eventually be rebuilt there. On a fine day it is worth a visit past these farms as there are great views of Weardale and the confluence of the Rookhope Burn with the Wear, hitherto enjoyed by the residents of these nearly forgotten farms

Finally to return to Joe Watson’s book and route it is very interesting to see that at Rookhope there are a few apparent anomalies. I am assuming that he has returned to the original route which enters Rookhope from Westgate on the old trackbed from Smailsburn and then on leaving Rookhope en route to Stanhope the way in the book is via Smailburn Common to Smailsburn Farm and then down to the footbridge at Stotfield. In his comments on Navigation he states that the trail over Smailsburn Common is non visible and Weardale Way signage is sparse. This certainly explained the old waymark at Stotfield showing the Weardale Way going past the cemetery and over the footbridge to the Smailburn track which, when walking recently, we could not understand as my OS maps had always shown the route into Rookhope along the road. However if you have a map which is recent and shows the modifications of 2014 the original route has been restored and ties in with the new book. Hurrah! This route eliminates any road walking. If the route over Smailburn Common is to be used then additional waymarking will be required but I suspect that most walkers will take the Smailburn railway track both out and into Rookhope depending on their direction of travel. Or if coming from Stanhope will persist with walking along the road to reach Rookhope, though the road can be left at Rookhope Working Men’s Club, where you can pass by the rear of former council houses with nice open views to the west and continue past newer houses to emerge at the back of the Rookhope Inn and the bus shelter.