Two Chimneys and a Bastle
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12 miles
Start: Allendale town centre
Click to view start position on Google Maps
Map: OS Explorer Map 43 – Hadrian’s Wall: Haltwhistle and Hexham
This walk starts at the square in Allendale where you can stock up with all your provisions for the day. Walk down towards the River East Allen and just after the bend in the road take the good track down to the riverside which is followed downstream for over half a mile. Part way along will be seen the remains of the old railway bridge which carried the trains to the flat ground on the far side where the station was situated. Now it is a small estate with several shops, a craft bakery and also the Allendale Brewery which produce a range of fine ales.
At the first roadbridge cross over to the far bank and continue downriver passing Bishopfield Haugh and Bridge Eal walking through a mixture of woods and meadowland. Note the route at the house at Bridge Eal where you go into the garden and then turn left over a stile. Please respect the privacy of the owners by passing through quietly. Take care at the next area where Burntongues Burn joins the Allen. It is easy to head up this burn up a hill but ignore this and keep to the riverside path which here is a little obscure past Kittygreen to Oakpool and the tarmac road. Here turn left steeply uphill heading south. Ignore the first footpath on the left and take the second one to Gill House to arrive at High Frostall which is currently (August 2010) empty. Turn right in front of the house on the lane to reach the tarmac access road and at the end of this access road turn right slightly uphill for 20 metres only.
On your left is a chapel and cemetery which is still in use and an attractive place. Go through the graveyard on a clear path and over the stile to Hollybush. Here cross the stile and pass to the east of the farm and then cross two further fields towards Burnt Tongues Farm. Just before the farm the path has been diverted round the farm to the west and here you reach the road leading towards Allendale.
Head left downhill in that direction and in a short distance you come to the war memorial on your right. Everything round here is spread out amongst the many farms. A few metres after the memorial there is a footpath to Hollingreen. On reaching the house there is a gate if front of you which you go through and if you meet a dog he should be friendly. Once through the gate turn right noting the old railway shovels hanging from the wall. It is then sharp left to cross the Hollingreen Burn and climb over an awkward stile. You now cross two fields to Hawksteel where you exit the field to the left of the farm to reach a tarmac road.
The Hawksteel Burn here has obviously been used as a hush in lead mining days. The road is followed dowhhill past Dryside. Traffic is rarely met here and even less on the next road on the right to Frolar Meadows where you encounter the two flues which stretched from the smelter in the valley to the two chimneys seen uphill to the west. It is necessary to follow the tarmac to Fell House where the track alongside the flue then takes you to the chimney. This is a good place for a break with wide ranging views. You could need your compass now if visibility is poor as you head due east over heathland to reach Martin Bells bridge on the road over to the West Allen. In spring the birdlife here is very good with all the waders there to be seen.
Once on the road head down to Wooley Bridge. The map indicates a waterfall but on our visit the vegetation obscured it, although we could hear it even though there was a drought. After passing the waterfall turn sharp right along a very minor road passing past Wood Heads access road to an even quieter track leading downhill to Loaning Side. It is possible to go past Woodheads Farm and turn south to Nettle Hill and then down to Loaning Side on footpaths but l seriously doubt whether you will see a vehicle on the road. A very short distance north-west of Loaning Side is a derelict ruin in a field on the Nettle Hill footpath and this is the old bastle which was a fortified farmhouse. Bastles were common in Northumberland particularly nearer the border and this one is well to the south of most of them. Two are passed on the Pennine Way to the south of Bellingham. There were plans in 2008 to restore this bastle (known as Nine Dargues Bastle) but the currency crisis has stopped that for the time being.
Continuing downhill over the ford (there is also a footbridge) you reach Steel and the clear rural road is taken downhill to the bridge over the East Allen. It is a steep climb up to the main road at Studdondene. Here we head north on the B6295, which is invariably quiet, to the bend in the road where the Parkgates Burn is crossed. Immediately in front of you is a footpath which goes uphill to Low Scotch Hall where it is easy to go wrong. Do not go straight ahead on the same level but head right uphill through the garden and at the end of the house then turn left to follow a track along the contour through three fields to a stile in the far north-east corner. This is crossed and then head east past Finney Hill Green where you turn left to Prospect Hill.
From Low Scotch Hall to here the views all around are exceptionally good. You can see most of the route walked and they give a feeling of the spaciousness of this part of Northumberland. From Prospect Hill the town of Allendale is now below you and it is an easy walk downhill through open land to arrive back at the start. All of the pubs here are good and welcoming and supply a wide range of beers. My personal preferences are the Golden Lion and the Kings Head although the latter has l believe changed hands recently so will need checking out. If possible try a beer from the nearby brewery at Allendale and if they are not available in the town the Crown at Catton one mile towards Hexham is the brewery tap for Allendale beer and also serves good food.
Alternative Early Summer Route
If you are doing this walk in early summer there is an alternative route back to Allendale which enables you to see some of the restored hay meadows funded by the North Pennines AONB. After leaving Loaning Stead and arriving at Steel turn left immediately before the house and cross the Steel Beck by the footbridge. The meadow on your left which has the bastle has been restored. Turn right to pass Steel Woodhead heading north-east crossing into a further field. Continuing north-east at the end of this field the path turns left to Wooley shown as South Wooley on the AONB walk leaflet. The meadow on your left approachong Wooley as well as two on your right have all been restored. On the road turn right towards Allendale for about 100 yards and then left over the Wooley Burn towards Parkside, passing to the right of the buildings. Continue heading north to Wager House on the road through other restored meadows where you now go downhill back to Allendale.