19
May
2009
Teesdale Way – Middleton-in-Teesdale to Cotherstone
Filed under: Teesdale WayDistance: 12 miles
Map: OS Explorer 31
Start: The Fountain, Middleton (GR NY947253)
Click to View Start Position on Google Maps
Grade: Medium
I’ve wandered many a weary mile,
And in strange countries been;
I’ve dwelt in towns and on wild moors,
And curious sights I’ve seen
But still my heart clings to the dale
Where Tees rolls to the sea
Compared to what I’ve seen I’ll say
The Teesdale hills for me.
These words are taken from the frontispiece of the excellent guide to the Teesdale Way written by Martin Collins and produced by Cicerone Originally published in 1995. This book has recently had a second edition and is an essential guide to those wishing to complete this fine walk. As stated on many occasions I consider this to be a fine walk that is not well enough known throughout the country, in spite of the fine guidebook. All but the last stage to the mouth is in fine country and even the last stage, whilst not scenic is full of industrial history and has significant birdlife.
This circular walk is primarily on two well walked paths, these obviously being the Teesdale Way plus the Tees Railway path developed by Durham County Council which hopefully in the future will extend from Middleton to Barnard Castle. This section of the Teesdale Way goes through well cultivated land but at the same time gives you, at regular intervals, more distant views of the fells hereabouts.
Leaving the cast iron fountain erected in 1877, where the attached plaque gives you full details of the reason for its erection, we proceed to the River Tees at County Bridge. Prior to 1974 ths was the border bridge between County Durham and Yorkshire, when following local government reorganisation the land to the south was transferred to Durham. The route follows the river on the north (left) bank and is clear to follow alongside the river. It is not all easy going as there are several descents over the incoming becks after passing Leekworth Caravan site. After approximately 2 miles the path leaves the riverside to climb to Egglesburn Farm where one can look down to the 2000 Millenium Bridge leading to Mickleton.
On reaching the B6282 we cross over onto a lane and pass the Baptist Chapel of 1872 with its inscribed stone. We now turn right to cross the Eggleston Burn by the footbridge and shortly after cross the smaller Blackton Burn. Just uphill from here was the site of the only lead smelter in the vicinity and we continue on a gradual climb past Bogg House and Eggleshope House. Note here the extensive and ancient Anglo Saxon cultivation terraces. We soon emerge on to a tarmac surface which is followed to the B6278 where we turn right into Eggleston village.
Eggleston is an attractive village , with two good pubs and is thought to be named after Ecgwulfs Farm. It was, and is again, an agricultural (and also commuter) village, although from 1771 when the Blackton smelter opened it ‘enjoyed’ life as an industrial village for a period of just over a 100 year until the lead industry collapsed.
We take the left lane down through the village turning left at the bottom for a short distance before turning right onto the Romaldkirk road. This was once a toll road and passes the entrance to Eggleston Hall with its interesting garden and tearooms. The beck on the left is called Hell Beck and can be quite impressive after heavy rain. Both it and the road go under a private bridge which links up land from the Hall. The bridge at the bottom over the Tees dates back to the 15th century and was rebuilt in the mid 1600s. These repairs lasted for 300 years before the parapets were reconsructed in 1984. At one time there was a chapel on the bridge and here the Teesdale Way splits onto both sides of the river – the routes rejoining each other at Cotherstone. We will take the left bank onto a private road constructed by the NWA as part of the Kielder Project which enabled water from the massive Kielder Reservoir to be transferred to the Tyne, Wear and Tees. Due to the downturn in industrial Teeside this is now rarely used. The field on your right was until recently a cricket field which has now gone back to nature.
We proceed upward through Great Wood where in spring there are some good floral displays, and on leaving the wood head SE over a field to East Barnley Farm, visited on the East of Eggleston Walk. The Teesdale Way heads south over Raygill Beck to descend slowly to the edge of Shipley Wood and here there are fine views west over to Baldersdale and Goldsborough. A short diversion off the Teesdale Way on a small track takes you to Percy Myre rock with its superb views west and down the cliff to the Tees. Take care here and return back to the main route which descends past a caravan site to reach a footbridge over the Tees just upstream from the confluence with the River Balder.
Cotherstone can easily be reached by either following the path up the side of the Balder or climbing up past the site of Cotherstone Castle. This is the route which we will take on the next section of the Teesdale Way from Cotherstone to Egglestone Abbey. (Note the possible confusion with this abbey which is 2 miles downstream from Barnard Castle). We turn right upriver from the footbridge and soon cross Wilder Beck and continuing above the river we come to Woden Croft. This in earlier life served as one of the Yorkshire schools exposed by Charles Dickens along with Dotheboys School in Bowes, passed on the Bowes Alternative Pennine Way walk. These schools and their exposure were the basis of his book “Nicholas Nickleby”.
From here we drop down to the riverbank and pass the small caves known as the Fairy Cupboards, along a path rescued by Durham County Council a few years back. After passing the caves we again leave the river to pass the deserted Low Garth. We follow its old entrance for a short distance before crossing fields to reach the ancient Sennings Lane. This leads directly into Romaldkirk near to the Kirk Inn. Romaldkirk is named after its church dedicated to the lesser known St Romald. The church goes back to before the 12th century when it was modernised by the Normans. It contains a Norman font. Romaldkirk is the base for a walk entitled “Romaldkirk and the Reservoirs” and fuller details of this lovely village are included on that walk. The village has three greens (is this a record for Co Durham?) and on these can be found the village stocks as well as the water pumps. Unbelievably these pumps were in use for 50 years after the construction of Hury Reservoir.
We now head west passing the high green to reach the old railway station which is now a private residence. It is now a 3 mile walk along the old trackbed restored to a walkway by Durham County Council past Mickleton Picnic Area and over the Lune viaduct to Lonton, where the path across the fields is taken back to County Bridge and the start of the walk.