Bill's Walks

West of Staindrop

Distance: 12 miles

Map : Durham & Sunderland ~ Explorer 308

Start: Staindrop Village Green (GR NZ219383)

Click to View Start Position on Google Maps

Grade: Medium

This walk starting in the attractive village of Staindrop is a longish stroll through mildly rolling countryside. Much of it is on Raby land and is through predominately sheep country and on a spring day makes for wonderful walking on grass and firm paths.

We leave Staindrop at the north-west corner of North Green and take a narrow waymarked path called “Knicky Nack”. After a few hundred metres this crosses into a field and the way is followed west over a stile before crossing a field north-west to reach the Raby Estate wall, which encloses the estate and is passed on my Copley Chimney walk, on Scotland Gate which is 2 miles to the north. A succession of stone stiles are crossed with several of some age and after West Lodge continue to the end of Ladyclose Wood at GR 099212. Here we turn south down to the road. It is necessary to do some road walking here to the west but there is a wide verge. Nevertheless take care!

After about half a mile we take the track south to Friars Cote House and pass through the farmyard on a clear track to descend to a small beck which will be crossed again at the end of the walk. Note the watercress which is abundant in this stream. The route is clear up to a t-junction of paths to a point east of High House. We take the path in front of the house and pass through a gate to enter a large field with High House Plantation on your left. The route is straightforward to the west to emerge on a minor road near to the old tile sheds. We now go south on the road for a short distance and turn into the access road for Streatlam Grange. This was, in past times a Bowes family home.

Just after passing a bungalow on the right we go south through a gate down a hill and after two fields reach Old Mill Gill which ultimately becomes Sudburn Beck. The ruins of the mill which gave the gill its name can be examined at a distance but are dangerous to enter. Crossing the bridge we make for a pylon and come to Stainton Hill Farm. The route is through the farm at first and then through a narrow opening to miss most of the farmyard. After passing on land at the edge of the quarry we come into Stainton Village.

Stainton has a long history and is mentioned in records as far back as 1150. The name means “the farmstead by the stony road”. The road in question was the Roman road from Bowes to Binchester and the route of this is on the OS map. Note the old village school which has been converted into the Village Hall.

During World War 2 this area saw massive activity as there were many army camps here which stayed in use for a long time after the war. These were at Streatlam, Westwick, Humbleton, Barford and on the other side of the Tees at Deerbolt which was later converted into a prison. These camps trained soldiers in gunnery, wireless and driving.

We reach the main road and take the tarmac road to Broomilaw. Before reaching this farm we cross the dismantled Darlington to Barnard Castle Railway. This was opened in 1856 and linked up to the South Durham and Lancashire line at Barnard Castle, thus providing a through route to the west from Darlington. The old station platform can be seen through the undergrowth. Broomilaw Station was built as a private station for the Bowes of Streatlam Castle and only appeared on the public timetable in 1942. It remained a public station until the lines closure in 1964. The nearby signal box is now in a dilapidated condition. After the closure, much of Barnard Castle station was dismantled and rebuilt at Saltburn.

Of wartime interest is the fact that at Black Beck about half a mile south of the station was a P.O.W. camp in the middle of all the army camps.

We continue on a well marked path first south then south-east to Humbeton Farm. It is easy to go astray here by sticking on the main path but this led to Westwick Camp. Humbleton will be familiar to those who go on my Teesdale Way walk from Whorlton to Winston as it is the coffee stop on the return route through Little Newsham with its working foundry. Passing through the farm we ascend the side of Humbleton Hill and descend towards Low Barford. Turn north at a small building and head north going under the railway to reach High Barford. This is now the site for Appleby Bros. vehicle repair business whilst the nearby army camp is used for motorsport.

Take greatcare crossing the A688 and head west for a very short distance before taking the track to Woodend Farm. Here you cross Sudburn Beck and pass round the first house before following the beck downstream. This is a delightful section with the resident dippers and yellow wagtails confirming the cleanliness of the water. The left bank of the stream is followed for about one and a half miles to the A688 at Sudberry Bridge and the fine route is continued on the other side to Cleatlam Bridge. Here Staindrop is well into view and we cross the road and follow the path north east towards Staindrop, crossing the stream with the watercress, we crossed earlier in the day.

In front of you is a long wall and there are routes through to the Main Street at either end.

If you have any energy left, Staindrop is worth a potter, especially the church of St. Mary where many of the Nevilles are buried. This church is of Saxon origin, much enlarged over the intervening centuries before being fully restored in 1849. The village is well served for snacks or pubs which you will surely appreciate after such a pleasant and interesting walk.