Cowshill to Killhope (Weardale Way)
Filed under: Weardale WayApprox. Distance: 13 miles
Start: Car Park Cowshill off A689 (GR NY856406)
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Map: North Pennines Teesdale & Weardale ~ Explorer OL 31
Grade: Strenuous
In 2008, the Mineral Valleys Project which was a project supported by the Heritage Lottery Fund, led by English Nature and implemented by local communities in conjunction with Durham County Council produced an excellent set of leaflets giving details of walks in Weardale. Other work which they implemented was the environmental improvements throughout the valley and which are evident in the new street furniture, pavings, etc.
One of the leaflets was a leaflet called Cowshill to Killhope and the first part of this walk uses this leaflet. It is subtitled “An extension to the Weardale Way” and indeed it is that precisely. The original Weardale Way commenced at Killhope Wheel before making its way east. The river at Cowshill is the Killhope Burn which joins the Burnhope Burn flowing down from Burnhope Reservoir at Wearhead to become the River Wear and this is the new starting place for the Weardale Way. Whilst Wearhead is a pleasant spot, I personally feel that Killhope Wheel is a much more prominent and significant start to the walk.
We leave the car park at Burtreeford noting the despoiled lanscape to the north and cross the stream over the burn coming off the valley side from Sedling which we will visit later. The Cowshill pub, in front of you, had an interesting landlord for many years, his speciality, apart from keeping a good house, was to insult or mock his customers. Indeed he used to say that he was the most ill-mannered landlord in the country but he was wrong, as in a competition for the national title he lost out to a landlord from the Southampton area. It was all jest as he was much missed by the customers of his previous pub at Melmerby, on the Cumbrian side of Hartside.
On crossing the bridge we turn immediately over a stile and taking care note the attractive waterfall on Sedling Beck which is followed for a short distance to some cottages where we turn right to join a tarmac road, where we turn down to the bridge over Killhope Burn. There is another fine waterfall just under the bridge which is passed on the Weardale Way on another walk and note also the cemetery on the hill, on the south bank which reminds one of the rural French cemetries, in being away from the village.
We take the path upstream on the south side of the bridge passing the old Copthill Quarry where whinstone was quarried. The Whin Sill surfaced here after leaving the Tees and then progressing to the north of the Tyne Valley where it was extensively quarried around Thirlwall and along Hadrians Wall, as at Cawfield which is near mile castle 42 and there is now a lake and picnic site. The old quarry here at Copthill is also now flooded.
The route is along the Killhope Beck on the south side and passes Low Allers where the valley is very steep. You cannot imagine much sunshine getting down here in mid-winter. The bridge at Heathery is ignored except for those wanting a short walk back to Cowshill and we climb up a little away from the burn through High Rush and Blakeley Field before descending to Killhopeburn Bridge (GR835417). It is uphill now towards Wellhope Farm but at halfway up opposite a wall we turn right through Carricks Haggs to Quarry Hill where we cross Cowhorse Hush. It is now along the side of the forest to Kidds Dam where water was stored to power the wheel below at Killhope. The route now turns north and east through the forest to arrive at the Killhope Wheel Interprative site.
This is the most complete lead mining site in Britain and is run by Durham County Council. This was a lead crushing mill and was built by the Beaumont Company circa 1860 to crush the lead ore mined here. The name is perpetuated in the Beaumont Hotel in Hexham. Ore was brought out from the Park Level which can be entered by visitors to the museum and stored in the bowse teems. In the early days when the site was acuired by Durham County Council preliminary work was carried out by the Durham Voluntary Countryside Ranger Service (DVCRS) who cleared out the bowse teems and the wheel was repainted by Scouts from North Yorkshire under full supervision. The wheel is over 10 metres diameter (33ft 6in) and is an overshot wheel (it is driven by water coming over the top of the wheel). This was not its first site as it saw earlier service at Holmes Linn on the East Allen which is also the site of a fine waterfall. The ore mined here was by all accounts extremely hard and the waterwheel powered four sets of crushing rollers.
The Killhope Interpretive Centre is well worth a visit having displays of the “shop” where the miners slept four to a bed as well as being able to study the crushers and all the associated equipment. There is also a giftshop with an unrivalled selection of leadmining books and a restaurant.
We now cross the main road to start the long climb up the Carriers Way through the forest at Carriers Hill. The A689 up the valley climbs over into Nenthead in Cumbria and is the highest main road in England at 623 metres. The Carriers Way is the route where the pack horses carried the crushed lead ore over to the East Allen valley for smelting. When you reach the top you will note the top of Killhope Law which is one of the Durham 2000ft hills and is a fine viewpoint particularly northwards. The route is wet in places and is marked by posts.
Soon we descend to a dirt road used by grouse shooters and it is an easy descent passing to the right of Dodd Reservoir. This was the original route of the Weardale Way and it is interesting to note that in the map on page 47 of the book “Upper Weardale Way” by Malcolm Parker and Dorothy Gibson that they still refer to this as the Weardale Way. This book is a series of circular walks on the way from Auckland Castle to the start at Killhope and is available from the Dales Centre. You will also see the remains of the flue which carried the poisonous sulphur fumes up to the top of Killhope Law before dispersal. Similar ones can be seen just north of Rookhope and at both Allendale and Langley, north of Allendale where the chimneys are still standing.
The cottages when you eventually reach the road are at Dirt Pot and were the dwellings for the miners and smelters. About 40 years ago one served as a Youth Hostel. Also in this hamlet, behind the houses is the Candle House where the candles which lit the village were made. Allenheads, which we pass through, demands more than a passing visit which we will visit on a further walk. It is a long climb up the B6295 onto Allendale Common before picking up the track over Burtree Fell and into the Sedling Burn. This valley had many workings ranging from ironstone at Queensbury, whilst whinstone was also quarried around here as well as lead and silver at Burtree Pasture and Sedling. These two mines produced large quantities of ore. In latter years fluospar was mined here for use as a flux in the Teesside and Hartlepool steelworks.
We continue down the burn where the only sound now is the bleating of the sheep. This is an extremely interesting area for geologists and at the whinstone quarries passed in the early stage of the walk can be seen the Burtreeford disturbance where the rocks layers are tilted.
It is now a short distance back to the car park down the burn to round off a full and rewarding day.
Teesdale Way – Middleton-in-Teesdale to Cotherstone
Filed under: Teesdale WayDistance: 12 miles
Map: OS Explorer 31
Start: The Fountain, Middleton (GR NY947253)
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Grade: Medium
I’ve wandered many a weary mile,
And in strange countries been;
I’ve dwelt in towns and on wild moors,
And curious sights I’ve seen
But still my heart clings to the dale
Where Tees rolls to the sea
Compared to what I’ve seen I’ll say
The Teesdale hills for me.
These words are taken from the frontispiece of the excellent guide to the Teesdale Way written by Martin Collins and produced by Cicerone Originally published in 1995. This book has recently had a second edition and is an essential guide to those wishing to complete this fine walk. As stated on many occasions I consider this to be a fine walk that is not well enough known throughout the country, in spite of the fine guidebook. All but the last stage to the mouth is in fine country and even the last stage, whilst not scenic is full of industrial history and has significant birdlife.
This circular walk is primarily on two well walked paths, these obviously being the Teesdale Way plus the Tees Railway path developed by Durham County Council which hopefully in the future will extend from Middleton to Barnard Castle. This section of the Teesdale Way goes through well cultivated land but at the same time gives you, at regular intervals, more distant views of the fells hereabouts.
Leaving the cast iron fountain erected in 1877, where the attached plaque gives you full details of the reason for its erection, we proceed to the River Tees at County Bridge. Prior to 1974 ths was the border bridge between County Durham and Yorkshire, when following local government reorganisation the land to the south was transferred to Durham. The route follows the river on the north (left) bank and is clear to follow alongside the river. It is not all easy going as there are several descents over the incoming becks after passing Leekworth Caravan site. After approximately 2 miles the path leaves the riverside to climb to Egglesburn Farm where one can look down to the 2000 Millenium Bridge leading to Mickleton.
On reaching the B6282 we cross over onto a lane and pass the Baptist Chapel of 1872 with its inscribed stone. We now turn right to cross the Eggleston Burn by the footbridge and shortly after cross the smaller Blackton Burn. Just uphill from here was the site of the only lead smelter in the vicinity and we continue on a gradual climb past Bogg House and Eggleshope House. Note here the extensive and ancient Anglo Saxon cultivation terraces. We soon emerge on to a tarmac surface which is followed to the B6278 where we turn right into Eggleston village.
Eggleston is an attractive village , with two good pubs and is thought to be named after Ecgwulfs Farm. It was, and is again, an agricultural (and also commuter) village, although from 1771 when the Blackton smelter opened it ‘enjoyed’ life as an industrial village for a period of just over a 100 year until the lead industry collapsed.
We take the left lane down through the village turning left at the bottom for a short distance before turning right onto the Romaldkirk road. This was once a toll road and passes the entrance to Eggleston Hall with its interesting garden and tearooms. The beck on the left is called Hell Beck and can be quite impressive after heavy rain. Both it and the road go under a private bridge which links up land from the Hall. The bridge at the bottom over the Tees dates back to the 15th century and was rebuilt in the mid 1600s. These repairs lasted for 300 years before the parapets were reconsructed in 1984. At one time there was a chapel on the bridge and here the Teesdale Way splits onto both sides of the river – the routes rejoining each other at Cotherstone. We will take the left bank onto a private road constructed by the NWA as part of the Kielder Project which enabled water from the massive Kielder Reservoir to be transferred to the Tyne, Wear and Tees. Due to the downturn in industrial Teeside this is now rarely used. The field on your right was until recently a cricket field which has now gone back to nature.
We proceed upward through Great Wood where in spring there are some good floral displays, and on leaving the wood head SE over a field to East Barnley Farm, visited on the East of Eggleston Walk. The Teesdale Way heads south over Raygill Beck to descend slowly to the edge of Shipley Wood and here there are fine views west over to Baldersdale and Goldsborough. A short diversion off the Teesdale Way on a small track takes you to Percy Myre rock with its superb views west and down the cliff to the Tees. Take care here and return back to the main route which descends past a caravan site to reach a footbridge over the Tees just upstream from the confluence with the River Balder.
Cotherstone can easily be reached by either following the path up the side of the Balder or climbing up past the site of Cotherstone Castle. This is the route which we will take on the next section of the Teesdale Way from Cotherstone to Egglestone Abbey. (Note the possible confusion with this abbey which is 2 miles downstream from Barnard Castle). We turn right upriver from the footbridge and soon cross Wilder Beck and continuing above the river we come to Woden Croft. This in earlier life served as one of the Yorkshire schools exposed by Charles Dickens along with Dotheboys School in Bowes, passed on the Bowes Alternative Pennine Way walk. These schools and their exposure were the basis of his book “Nicholas Nickleby”.
From here we drop down to the riverbank and pass the small caves known as the Fairy Cupboards, along a path rescued by Durham County Council a few years back. After passing the caves we again leave the river to pass the deserted Low Garth. We follow its old entrance for a short distance before crossing fields to reach the ancient Sennings Lane. This leads directly into Romaldkirk near to the Kirk Inn. Romaldkirk is named after its church dedicated to the lesser known St Romald. The church goes back to before the 12th century when it was modernised by the Normans. It contains a Norman font. Romaldkirk is the base for a walk entitled “Romaldkirk and the Reservoirs” and fuller details of this lovely village are included on that walk. The village has three greens (is this a record for Co Durham?) and on these can be found the village stocks as well as the water pumps. Unbelievably these pumps were in use for 50 years after the construction of Hury Reservoir.
We now head west passing the high green to reach the old railway station which is now a private residence. It is now a 3 mile walk along the old trackbed restored to a walkway by Durham County Council past Mickleton Picnic Area and over the Lune viaduct to Lonton, where the path across the fields is taken back to County Bridge and the start of the walk.
West of Staindrop
Filed under: OtherDistance: 12 miles
Map : Durham & Sunderland ~ Explorer 308
Start: Staindrop Village Green (GR NZ219383)
Click to View Start Position on Google Maps
Grade: Medium
This walk starting in the attractive village of Staindrop is a longish stroll through mildly rolling countryside. Much of it is on Raby land and is through predominately sheep country and on a spring day makes for wonderful walking on grass and firm paths.
We leave Staindrop at the north-west corner of North Green and take a narrow waymarked path called “Knicky Nack”. After a few hundred metres this crosses into a field and the way is followed west over a stile before crossing a field north-west to reach the Raby Estate wall, which encloses the estate and is passed on my Copley Chimney walk, on Scotland Gate which is 2 miles to the north. A succession of stone stiles are crossed with several of some age and after West Lodge continue to the end of Ladyclose Wood at GR 099212. Here we turn south down to the road. It is necessary to do some road walking here to the west but there is a wide verge. Nevertheless take care!
After about half a mile we take the track south to Friars Cote House and pass through the farmyard on a clear track to descend to a small beck which will be crossed again at the end of the walk. Note the watercress which is abundant in this stream. The route is clear up to a t-junction of paths to a point east of High House. We take the path in front of the house and pass through a gate to enter a large field with High House Plantation on your left. The route is straightforward to the west to emerge on a minor road near to the old tile sheds. We now go south on the road for a short distance and turn into the access road for Streatlam Grange. This was, in past times a Bowes family home.
Just after passing a bungalow on the right we go south through a gate down a hill and after two fields reach Old Mill Gill which ultimately becomes Sudburn Beck. The ruins of the mill which gave the gill its name can be examined at a distance but are dangerous to enter. Crossing the bridge we make for a pylon and come to Stainton Hill Farm. The route is through the farm at first and then through a narrow opening to miss most of the farmyard. After passing on land at the edge of the quarry we come into Stainton Village.
Stainton has a long history and is mentioned in records as far back as 1150. The name means “the farmstead by the stony road”. The road in question was the Roman road from Bowes to Binchester and the route of this is on the OS map. Note the old village school which has been converted into the Village Hall.
During World War 2 this area saw massive activity as there were many army camps here which stayed in use for a long time after the war. These were at Streatlam, Westwick, Humbleton, Barford and on the other side of the Tees at Deerbolt which was later converted into a prison. These camps trained soldiers in gunnery, wireless and driving.
We reach the main road and take the tarmac road to Broomilaw. Before reaching this farm we cross the dismantled Darlington to Barnard Castle Railway. This was opened in 1856 and linked up to the South Durham and Lancashire line at Barnard Castle, thus providing a through route to the west from Darlington. The old station platform can be seen through the undergrowth. Broomilaw Station was built as a private station for the Bowes of Streatlam Castle and only appeared on the public timetable in 1942. It remained a public station until the lines closure in 1964. The nearby signal box is now in a dilapidated condition. After the closure, much of Barnard Castle station was dismantled and rebuilt at Saltburn.
Of wartime interest is the fact that at Black Beck about half a mile south of the station was a P.O.W. camp in the middle of all the army camps.
We continue on a well marked path first south then south-east to Humbeton Farm. It is easy to go astray here by sticking on the main path but this led to Westwick Camp. Humbleton will be familiar to those who go on my Teesdale Way walk from Whorlton to Winston as it is the coffee stop on the return route through Little Newsham with its working foundry. Passing through the farm we ascend the side of Humbleton Hill and descend towards Low Barford. Turn north at a small building and head north going under the railway to reach High Barford. This is now the site for Appleby Bros. vehicle repair business whilst the nearby army camp is used for motorsport.
Take greatcare crossing the A688 and head west for a very short distance before taking the track to Woodend Farm. Here you cross Sudburn Beck and pass round the first house before following the beck downstream. This is a delightful section with the resident dippers and yellow wagtails confirming the cleanliness of the water. The left bank of the stream is followed for about one and a half miles to the A688 at Sudberry Bridge and the fine route is continued on the other side to Cleatlam Bridge. Here Staindrop is well into view and we cross the road and follow the path north east towards Staindrop, crossing the stream with the watercress, we crossed earlier in the day.
In front of you is a long wall and there are routes through to the Main Street at either end.
If you have any energy left, Staindrop is worth a potter, especially the church of St. Mary where many of the Nevilles are buried. This church is of Saxon origin, much enlarged over the intervening centuries before being fully restored in 1849. The village is well served for snacks or pubs which you will surely appreciate after such a pleasant and interesting walk.
Carricks to Hunstanworth (Co. Durham Border Walks)
Filed under: County Durham BorderDistance: 11 miles
Map: OS Explorer 307
Start: Durham County Council Picnic Area, east of Blanchland (GR NY983153)
Click to View Start Position on Google Maps
Grade: Medium
This walk commences at the Durham County Council Picnic Park on the banks of the Derwent which for much of its length serves as the border between County Durham and Northumberland. Regrettably, there is no footpath either alongside the Derwent Reservoir east from the site or westwards into Blanchland. We therefore cross the new bridge constructed at the same time as the reservoir and take the path on the north bank.
This is an attractive route with abundant birdlife and we could well see dippers which nest here. On several occasions l have seen redstart here and there is always the chance of seeing a pied flycatcher when they are present in the area.
Our first highlight is the estate village of Blanchland which is a Northumberland village with a Durham feel, possibly due to its softer architecture. Indeed a lot of its wealth was from the lead mines of County Durham some of which will be visited later. If you have read “A Pennine Journey 1938” by A. Wainwright (not published until 1986 when he was famous as it had laid in a drawer in his house!), you will have noted that he had walked from the Kirk Inn at Romaldkirk to Blanchland in one day. His route was from Middleton-in-Teesdale over Newbiggin Common into Westgate, then Scarsike Head and down into Rookhope before crossing over to Hunstanworth and finally descending into Blanchland. An epic day! I thoroughly recommend this book to everyone as it encapsulates the period just prior to World War 2. Indeed the day that Wainwright left Blanchland was the day of the historic meeting at Munich between Chamberlain, Hitler, Mussolini and the French Premier. It had rained in Weardale which he thought a bit dreary (he was wrong on that count) but Blanchland revived him and he thought quite rightly that it was a wonderful place. I am sure that 70 years later, you will agree with him. W.H. Auden visited Blanchland 8 years earlier in 1930 and said later that no place held sweeter memories for him.
With a population of circa 150 the village is certainly small but nevertheless boasts an old Abbey from the 12th century (from which the village takes its name), a fine hotel which was originally part of the Abbey and a village shop, as well as tearooms.
There as three routes to our next destination which is Baybridge Picnic Park. One of these is a newish wheelchair friendly path whilst the other two follow the river more closely. Ours is on the Durham side and passes an attractive waterfall to arrive at Baybridge. This path was substantially improved by the Durham Countryside Ranger Service many years ago.
Baybridge Picnic site is an anomoly as it is on the north bank of the Derwent yet is in County Durham. The reason for this is that some time in the past the river was diverted onto a different course a few metres further south.
We turn left westwards to pick up the road to Newbiggin Hall. The road climbing the hill is an old drovers route to Pennypie which can also be reached directly from Blanchland. It is easy going for the next mile past Newbiggin Hall before we turn steeply down to the river and cross it near to Gibraltar Banks. Just upstream from the bridge is the confluence of Nookton Burn and Beldon Burn, which merge here to become the River Derwent. Vagabond, in his book published many years ago entitled “50 Weekend Walks around Newcastle”, stated that this place is a perfect Elysium and those who know his books know full well his extensive knowledge of the north-easern countryside. Nothing has changed over the last 50 years since he penned those words.
It is a steep climb into the unique and interesting village of Hunstanworth. There is no place like it in County Durham. It is of some antiquity being mentioned in the Boldon Book when Bishop Pudsey compiled the Durham equivalent to the Doomsday Book. Hunstanworth is less well known than it should be and suffers from its close proximity to Blanchland. The somewhat austere buildings were designed by the well known Victorian architect Samuel Teulon in 1862. His style of High Victorian does not please everyone with its angularity and its use of multi-coloured bricks and, in the case of Hunstanworth, coloured stone also. Note the different colours of slate used for the roofs. This style is much favoured in Burgundy in France as those of you who have visited Beaune will be able to testify. The reason that Teulon built as much round here is down to the fact that he was sponsored by the Vicar, the Reverend David Capper who resided at Newbiggin Hall which we passed earlier in the walk. His church, St. James, is interesting and the churchyard has the remains of a pele tower.
Pevsner in his County Durham Guide called Teulon insensitive, ham-fisted and self-assertive but has to admit that in the case of Hunstanworth he was successful.
We have a bit of road walking now over the hill to arrive at the hamlet of Ramshaw. In this area, at Sikehead Dam was found a mesolithic flint tool which indicated settlement from very early times, although evidence of occupation in the subsequent neolithic and iron age times is absent. The area came to life in the 19th Century when lead mining commenced. There is a lead slag heap on Bale Hill where lead washing was carried out and much other lead mining remains. The engine house which survives was used to power the water pump to keep the mines dry. The Derwent Mines were down in the valley but today we will go through the fluospar mine south west of the houses before climbing up to Sikehead Mine, past the two chimneys and down the course of the flue. The old mining reservoirs were utilised when a Presser Steam Engine was built to carry water to Smiddy Shaw Reservoir which had been completed in 1872 and water from this area had been collected in much earlier times by the Prince Bishops.
It is downhill all the way now over Buckshott Fell and the grouse moor back to Blanchland and along the path back to Carricks.